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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-27-2006, 09:20 PM   #18631
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jawa you have tried everything i would suggest at the end of the day you might not be getting enough power to your servo, you could always place a small battery pack to compensate for the high amount of power that servo needs, i run an extra batt. for this same reason but mainly use it because of the low mod motors that i run. hope this helps.
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Old 05-28-2006, 01:34 AM   #18632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry
jawa you have tried everything i would suggest at the end of the day you might not be getting enough power to your servo, you could always place a small battery pack to compensate for the high amount of power that servo needs, i run an extra batt. for this same reason but mainly use it because of the low mod motors that i run. hope this helps.
Thanks for the inputs.
Isn't power an issue only with digital servos which need more current? I use analog servos in my 3 set ups : 4 cells+14x2, 4 cells+12x2, 6 cells+15x4. Would an extra small battery pack make a difference?
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:09 PM   #18633
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i would try another servo.i may not have read far enough back on what you tried but it sounds to me like there is a problem with the servo.
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:29 AM   #18634
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Default 3.1 CK Asphalt setup

Hi everyone, great 1/12th resource here, I'm glad I found this place. Going to take a good while to read through all the pages, I've already learned so much.
My brother and I have recently taken to pan cars and bought a couple used carpet knives to race up and down the street. Are there any setup guides or books available for the 12th scale enthusiast? Compared to touring cars 12th scale seems non-existant. Can anyone recommend a good starting point for asphalt oval? The only setups sheets I can find are for carpet. Thanks alot. Shawn
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Old 05-29-2006, 12:09 PM   #18635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry
sounds like a glitch problem check your receiver, and make sure the antenna wire is not in contact with your chassis, or put a cap on the receiver to help surpress the noise, could be many things that cause a glitch, motor, esc, which you have ruled out, receiver, chances are slim that its your servo. maybe post a pic of your car and what motor you are using and maybe we can help more
Replace the caps on the motor speed gem don't have them built in if it from the original release in 1997.
Also the glitching also can occur due to arcing because the brushes are aligned well or a very worn com.
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Old 05-29-2006, 12:17 PM   #18636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThrottleControl
Hi everyone, great 1/12th resource here, I'm glad I found this place. Going to take a good while to read through all the pages, I've already learned so much.
My brother and I have recently taken to pan cars and bought a couple used carpet knives to race up and down the street. Are there any setup guides or books available for the 12th scale enthusiast? Compared to touring cars 12th scale seems non-existant. Can anyone recommend a good starting point for asphalt oval? The only setups sheets I can find are for carpet. Thanks alot. Shawn
Prep the cars click here
Oval i know nothing about really , but to go fast you need an oval chassis and run 4 different compounds one for each wheel and stagger.
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Old 05-29-2006, 04:19 PM   #18637
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Default 1:12 scale tire colour coding?

Time for a silly question maybe Is the colour coding system of Jaco 1:12 tires the same as TRC's? ie are Jaco Purple's approx 40 shore rating, Pink 30 etc etc?? Is it an industry standard colour coding system? Sorry new to 1:12 scale.
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Old 05-29-2006, 05:23 PM   #18638
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they are not the same color rating unfortunaltely. i think i have a code system somewhere that has all shore rating numbers on them if interested send me an email and if i find it i will send it to you
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Old 05-29-2006, 05:25 PM   #18639
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i have heard a rumor that xray is making a 1/12 scale for release at the end of the year. if its true then i look forward to running it, they never disapoint
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Old 05-29-2006, 05:35 PM   #18640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry
i have heard a rumor that xray is making a 1/12 scale for release at the end of the year. if its true then i look forward to running it, they never disapoint
If thats true, Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet Where do i sign up?
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Old 05-29-2006, 05:39 PM   #18641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I have given up on Hyperform. I need a car that I can get parts for, so I am going to covert my 12th scale back to something that I can get parts for. Could someone with a 12L4 or a T-Force tell me the measurement between the two screws side to side that hold the stand offs for the top deck on these cars? Thanks.
We just got all the carbon components for the new kit in which bolt up to our existing car. We are no longer cutting the existing parts. I haven't had a chance to update the website but send me an email if you need something...
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:15 AM   #18642
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also, here is a pic
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-razor.jpg  
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:00 AM   #18643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
also, here is a pic
When is it available and pricing?
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:38 PM   #18644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
When is it available and pricing?
The carbon components are available now...

Chassis-$34.99
Cross Brace-$9.99
Battery Stops (Pair)-$9.99
Rear Pod Top Plate-$12.99
Rear Pod Bottom Plate-$12.99

All Carbon Components-$69.99

We will also be offering a conversion shortly that includes damper tubes and rear pod plates...
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:27 PM   #18645
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Where can I get some of the tools like Payne uses? If I want to measure my tire diameter or other things like ride height and turn buckle centering, etc. do I need an expensive digital measuring device or would a simple ruler work to get the job done? I know that 12th scale is extremely precise and touchy to the smallest (small is big with these cars) changes. Any other adjustment/tuning tools I should get? I'm way into 12th scale I want to learn everything about it. Is the XXX main tuning manual help any for 12th scale or is touring compltely different in every aspect? I'd kill for a good book dedicated to 12th scale or pan cars or anything thatd help me learn the adjustments on these cool little cars and what each of them do and how it all relates. I'm such a novice even the basics of on road would help me out alot, any good reads?

Also,
Do 12th scale cars need a spur/pinion gap like my offroad vehicles? I've been setting them with just a slight hair of play in between the teeth, didnt think it should be completely tight but the 64 pitch teeth are so small I figured they might strip if they're set apart much at all.

Thanks.
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