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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-27-2006, 12:40 AM   #18616
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Brushless gearing or rollout for L4???

Gentleman ( and Ladies if you're out there ), does anyone have a starting point for gearing or rollout for a 12L4 with a Sphere Comp and Reedy Neo 4 or 3 star combo in it? The instructions give you a basic starting point of 9.8 - 10.5 :1 for a 1/10 tourer, not sure how this equates to a pan car. They also mention that it should be geared lower than a similar turned brushed motor. I've been running 42 - 44mm rollout with LRP brushed 10x2, so far speedo only just warm and plenty of run time left after 8 mins with 3800's. Just not sure where to start with brushless?? Any help much appreciated Oh out door asphalt tracks too.
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Old 05-27-2006, 02:08 AM   #18617
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I am new to 1/12 and have to admit that I am hooked.
Curious about one thing though. What kind of adjustments would you make to the car to prevent traction rolling? When I first got the car I ran green tires front/back and the car seemed dialed except the foams chunked a lot. I then switched to pink rear and purple front and the car rolls extremely easy. I've tried to play around with compound vs no compound. Ride height is set to 4mm.
Any suggestions?
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Old 05-27-2006, 02:44 AM   #18618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordheim
I am new to 1/12 and have to admit that I am hooked.
Curious about one thing though. What kind of adjustments would you make to the car to prevent traction rolling? When I first got the car I ran green tires front/back and the car seemed dialed except the foams chunked a lot. I then switched to pink rear and purple front and the car rolls extremely easy. I've tried to play around with compound vs no compound. Ride height is set to 4mm.
Any suggestions?
What car are you running and what's your basic setup? If you're running on carpet I'd try gray rears. CA glue on the outside sidewall should take care of any traction rolling you're getting if it's not a setup problem. Heck, it will probably take care of it even if it is a setup problem
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Old 05-27-2006, 09:43 AM   #18619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nordheim
I am new to 1/12 and have to admit that I am hooked.
Curious about one thing though. What kind of adjustments would you make to the car to prevent traction rolling? When I first got the car I ran green tires front/back and the car seemed dialed except the foams chunked a lot. I then switched to pink rear and purple front and the car rolls extremely easy. I've tried to play around with compound vs no compound. Ride height is set to 4mm.
Any suggestions?
Hey there,

How big are your tires? That can always cause some traction roll if they are too big. Can you post your entire setup? We can probably help you more that way .

-Korey
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Old 05-27-2006, 10:16 AM   #18620
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Default pb with front wheels vibrating

Hi. I need some help. I have a problem with the front wheels vibrating intermittently and I can't control the direction of my RC12L4. It looks like some kind of electrical perturbation on the servo. I though it was due to the speed controller but after changing it, it is still the same. It is something wrong with the servo? Thanks for your advices.
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Old 05-27-2006, 10:41 AM   #18621
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sounds like a glitch problem check your receiver, and make sure the antenna wire is not in contact with your chassis, or put a cap on the receiver to help surpress the noise, could be many things that cause a glitch, motor, esc, which you have ruled out, receiver, chances are slim that its your servo. maybe post a pic of your car and what motor you are using and maybe we can help more
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Old 05-27-2006, 11:18 AM   #18622
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Default pb with front wheels vibrating

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry
sounds like a glitch problem check your receiver, and make sure the antenna wire is not in contact with your chassis, or put a cap on the receiver to help surpress the noise, could be many things that cause a glitch, motor, esc, which you have ruled out, receiver, chances are slim that its your servo. maybe post a pic of your car and what motor you are using and maybe we can help more
Thanks. Here is a picture. Motor is a Trinity speed gems. Any comments?
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Old 05-27-2006, 11:30 AM   #18623
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did you try changing crsytals?
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Old 05-27-2006, 11:30 AM   #18624
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Well you are running an AM radio system it looks like. Am radio systems always have problems in 1/12 cars in my opinion. I've never seen one work perfect... Maybe it might be time to upgrade? JR Propo has some good deals on a XR3i and they are around 120 bucks for a radio/rx combo without servos. KO propo also has a good intermediate FM system called the presto.

-Korey
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Old 05-27-2006, 12:48 PM   #18625
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Default pb with front wheels vibrating

I tried a different crystal but did not solve the pb. I have three 1/12 cars, all use am radio but I have the pb with only one of them. So I switch receiver, still the same, then I disconnected the motor, still the same. Then I suspected the Airtronics servo. So I connected the JR and the Futaba servos from the two other cars to the first one, and there was no wheel vibration. Then, I connected the Airtronics to the third car and the pb occurred again. So it looks to me that the pb is with the Airtronics.
Does it make sense?
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Old 05-27-2006, 03:34 PM   #18626
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Default Beginner Brushless System

Hi All,

I am new to 1/12 and decide to get a CRC T-force as my first 12th.
To get more drive time to learn how to dirve and how to setup, I would like to get a brushless system instead. Any recommand system for "beginner" ?
Novak provides few systems but I don't know which one is the best bet for a beginner. (By the way, I drove Nitro MT for a while )
If I use brushless system, does it mean that I cannot join the contest (for those stock or motified) ?

Thank you. Any comment is welcome.

-Kai
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Old 05-27-2006, 04:41 PM   #18627
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you can run a brushed setup and not run into problems buddy.brushless is cool but i think it will be pretty tight for a new racer to fit everything in there without pulling your hair out.its a very tight fit and there are more wires.brushed motor will last a long time without having to cut the motor if your geared correctly.ive seen some guys run about 10-12 times without cutting the comm.last time i raced 19 turn 1/12th i ran my car for the whole race day without cutting the comm and i tq'ed and won the race and never had any speed issues.i just think it will be alot easier for you to run the brushed set up to get started and once you get good you can tackle the brushless.i see a bunch of guys running the brushless.looks like fun but i just think the large brushless setups are just too bulky and heavy for 1/12th.
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:10 PM   #18628
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Jason,

Thank you very much for the input. I guess I will start with a brushed stock motor then.
Any recommandation for the easier learn and easier maintain stock motor ?
I am thinking about the Reedy product line right now.

Thank you for the input again.

-Kai
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Old 05-27-2006, 07:08 PM   #18629
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i would try the trinity CO27.its a strong motor and runs cool.i run 19 turn down here so i dont want to point you in the wrong direction with brushes and gearing.i would think that the F brushes would be the way to go in stock with green spring + and -.im sure some of the guys up here can help with this.
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Old 05-27-2006, 08:52 PM   #18630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i would try the trinity CO27.its a strong motor and runs cool.i run 19 turn down here so i dont want to point you in the wrong direction with brushes and gearing.i would think that the F brushes would be the way to go in stock with green spring + and -.im sure some of the guys up here can help with this.
I agree. That's what I have been running in stock. It's fast and you can gear it higher. F-brushes works well and you can play with the spring combo depending on the track you run at.
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