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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-21-2006, 06:27 PM   #18571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Green dots are still good tires but they wear really fast with todays batteries and motors. Gray rears and purple fronts would be a better call. Also, I'm a little confused about the 1.40", if you mean tire size that's way too small and your tires won't even be lower than the chassis, especially with a L4 that doesn't come with lowered pods.

You'd probably be better off with batteries from a smaller matcher, and I and most others prefer the IB batteries (3800 or 4200).

The Futaba S9602 is a good servo.

If you're going to get the sphere you might as well get a brushless motor to go along with it, especially if you're not going to be doing organized racing. If you're going to be racing with others just get what they're using as far as motors go. Decide what motor you want and we can help you with gearing.

Are you sure that's the size of the track, is it just two long straights and two hairpins?

The twister 2.1 is a good ESC but probably not a good choice for someone new to electric since in order to get the most out of it you should get the setup tools that go along with it.
Thanks for the replies guys.

About the 1.40", I think those are the wheels. The tire size is 47mm high.

I look into those IB batteries. Do those batteries last long? I heard that some batteries last longer than others even if they're, I don't remember if it was charged or discharged, at a high rate.

The track was actually once a full size outdoor basketball court. It has some sort of antiskid coating on it. Kinda like sandpaper. When I run my NTC3 on it with rubber tires, you can hear the tires squeak. What kind of tires would you recommend for this surface? Firm?

If I was to go completely brushless, should I go Novak or LRP? And which one? I wanna be able to run it in my RC10T3. Its go an 12T in it now.
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Old 05-21-2006, 06:54 PM   #18572
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Alright guys, I have a few CRC t-fource questions (ripon speedway specific questions are in parentheses, so maybe OD, Crashby, or another local can answer)

1. Does it actually come with a graphite t-bar like shown in the picture? if not, whats the thickness? (what works best for ripon?)

2. What size front springs come in the front? (are these okay for ripon?)

3. Does it come with extra front caster blocks? are aluminum caster blocks a worthy upgrade for an outdoor noobie?

4. Does it come with a CRC durashock? (what wt. oil should I start with at ripon?)

I'm sure I'll come up with more questions later. Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:39 PM   #18573
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I know some guys using the Xray Ball joints for the Dura Shock, but what about the steering assembly?
Are they too big to use or is there any issues with using them on an AE Style Front end?
I just hate ball cups and having to bust out the pliers all the time.
Parts:
XRA303220 Ball Joint
XRA303240 5.8mm Hex 4+4
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:14 PM   #18574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
Alright guys, I have a few CRC t-fource questions (ripon speedway specific questions are in parentheses, so maybe OD, Crashby, or another local can answer)

1. Does it actually come with a graphite t-bar like shown in the picture? if not, whats the thickness? (what works best for ripon?)

2. What size front springs come in the front? (are these okay for ripon?)

3. Does it come with extra front caster blocks? are aluminum caster blocks a worthy upgrade for an outdoor noobie?

4. Does it come with a CRC durashock? (what wt. oil should I start with at ripon?)

I'm sure I'll come up with more questions later. Thanks!
1. Not sure about the graphite T bar. But it's a cheap part to replace. You should be using a T bar like the Associated .063 for Ripon.

2. Regardless of what springs come in the kit, I would start with .022 springs. Again, cheap and easy to get.

3. I comes with 0, 5 and 10 degree caster blocks and no, you don't need the aluminum blocks.

4. From the pictures on the website, it looks like it does not come with the new CRC shock which is too bad if it doesn’t as that is a very good shock. At some point you are going to want to replace it with the Dura shock or a Silva shock. For Ripon I would start off with 30wt oil in the shock and the olive spring.
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:42 PM   #18575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
1. Does it actually come with a graphite t-bar like shown in the picture? if not, whats the thickness? (what works best for ripon?)

2. What size front springs come in the front? (are these okay for ripon?)

3. Does it come with extra front caster blocks? are aluminum caster blocks a worthy upgrade for an outdoor noobie?

4. Does it come with a CRC durashock? (what wt. oil should I start with at ripon?)
All answers are based on the red team kit.

1. Yes, the T-Force comes with a graphite t-bar. It's close to a .075 however the cuts on it make the side to side softer fo use with side springs. I run associated t-bars with just tweak screws and no side springs on my T-Force.

2. .020

3. Yes. 0, 5, and 10 degree composite blocks. Alum are a nice upgrade but not required.

4. Yes. Comeplete red durashock.
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:08 AM   #18576
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Hi Guys,

** yes, the Red T-Fource (and Red Knife) comes with the Dura-shock.

** Regarding mini-T ballstuds in the tubes... I believe the size of the ballstud is too large. The tube will snap over it but it is much too tight.

** CRC magenta is similar to Jaco double pink

** Yes.. graphite t-bar on the T-Fource. Some love it, some don't. Stronger than the fiberglass units, but stiffer front to back. Great for smooth high bite tracks. We have .063, .075 and .081 fiberglass units as well.

EricF - We widened the front track width for more stability. The car maintains the nimble steering with a little more forgiveness.

Anthony - We changed the body mount position to match the Carpet Knife. The change also minimized the front overhang of the chassis.

Thanks to all for the support...
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:23 AM   #18577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team CRC
** Regarding mini-T ballstuds in the tubes... I believe the size of the ballstud is too large. The tube will snap over it but it is much too tight.
Not true. I've built several cars with Mini T ball studs and CRC tubes. They fit a little tighter than the stock 2/56 ball studs, but still have some slop. CRC tubes are the best.
Thanks for the other comments, it's a real help to have a manufacturer post here.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:04 AM   #18578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Not true. I've built several cars with Mini T ball studs and CRC tubes. They fit a little tighter than the stock 2/56 ball studs, but still have some slop. CRC tubes are the best.
Thanks for the other comments, it's a real help to have a manufacturer post here.
Thanks OD...

I will have to try them again... for some reason I had it in my mind that the Mini-T ball studs were too large and not usuable.
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Old 05-22-2006, 01:34 AM   #18579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team CRC
Thanks OD...

I will have to try them again... for some reason I had it in my mind that the Mini-T ball studs were too large and not usuable.
Honestly, the only reason to use them is so you can say that you have titanium everything on your car (that's enough for me ). The weight saving is minimal.

Last edited by odpurple; 05-22-2006 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 05-22-2006, 06:27 PM   #18580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Need some help. Any idea on gearing a komodo? Large flowing asphalt track. 100 tooth spur. pinion reco?
10T should be geared at 27-96 on a large flowing track with 1.80" rear tires (1.59" Rollout)

Komodo should be geared 33-96 (1.94" Rollout) to start and you might go up a tooth or two if there are no hairpins.
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Old 05-23-2006, 08:05 PM   #18581
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Default Diff building

Does anyone out there use thrust washers to build their diff, and how do you do it? I'm tired of wearing out my outside bearing.
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Old 05-23-2006, 08:08 PM   #18582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadSign
Does anyone out there use thrust washers to build their diff, and how do you do it? I'm tired of wearing out my outside bearing.

I went the easy route and bought a kit from Slapmaster. It does the trick and I like them. A bunch of local 12th scalers swear by them (and ceramic diff balls). Basically builds a diff that lasts and stays smooth for months.

Ray
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Old 05-23-2006, 10:10 PM   #18583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadSign
Does anyone out there use thrust washers to build their diff, and how do you do it? I'm tired of wearing out my outside bearing.
Here is another vote for the Slapmaster Tools product. It is trouble free. Have not replaced one outer bearing since using them to replace the Bellville (sp?) assemblies on my two 1/12th scale cars.

Initial price is steep at $30; but, absolutely worth it.

Bill
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:29 PM   #18584
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Default New to 1/12 racing

Hey guys, I just received a Switch Blade 12sj in a trade for some parts. It is the "Spashett Worlds Edition" version. Is this a good car? The car appears to be in great condition. Can someone tell me the manufacturer it? Are parts still available and where can I buy them? Thanks,
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:38 PM   #18585
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It from Trinity. It is a great car. Probably the best carpet racing 1/12th car ever made. The front end is a bear to set up but one you got it its dialed.
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