R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-18-2006, 09:23 AM   #18541
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 36
Default

Has anyone tried a Checkpoint 19t in 1/12 yet?
rbecking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 10:02 AM   #18542
Tech Addict
 
Tim W.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Eagle, Idaho
Posts: 735
Default

no but I have tried the Peak Dynasty v2 with great results
__________________
Werks Racing USA, Mugen, AKA, Airtronics, Avid, Upgrade
Tim W. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 11:36 AM   #18543
Tech Elite
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 2,701
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbecking
Has anyone tried a Checkpoint 19t in 1/12 yet?
Yes, many club races and it's a good 1/12 motor. The new Komodo is faster though.
Anthony.L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 05:13 PM   #18544
RAL
Tech Elite
 
RAL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,205
Trader Rating: 59 (100%+)
Default

Need some help. Any idea on gearing a komodo? Large flowing asphalt track. 100 tooth spur. pinion reco?
__________________
TEAM ARAI GRIP ● J★STYLE ● P1 BRAND ● RÄLDESIGNWERKS ● FANTOM ● EXOTEK
RAL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 06:30 PM   #18545
Tech Champion
 
JayBee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: 12TH-MAN COUNTRY
Posts: 6,803
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Yes, many club races and it's a good 1/12 motor. The new Komodo is faster though.
I agree it is a faster motor but the Money is smoother
__________________
R C 3 G R A F I X _ F U S I O N . G R A P H I X _ S E A T T L E - R/C - R A C E R S _ E M E R A L D C I T Y R C . C O M

A E - 12R5.2 _ S M - REV8 PRO
JayBee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 06:50 PM   #18546
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Need some help. Any idea on gearing a komodo? Large flowing asphalt track. 100 tooth spur. pinion reco?
good starting point would be to run 47mm rear tires and a 100/36.i run a .030 verticle cut on the brushes(xxx brush) with green springs + and -.the car was real fast and was consistant throughout 8 minutes.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 09:17 PM   #18547
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys. I'm looking into starting 1/12 on-road. I'm not all new to onroad but still a newb to electrics. I still run a Nitro TC3.

Anyways here are the things that I'll be getting to start out:
- RC12L4
-*Protoform 1/12 Speed 12 GTP Body
- Jaco 1/12 Medium Standard 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Green (2)
- Jaco 1/12 Medium Standard 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Green (2)
- Trinity 4C VIS-PRO 35 Matched Unassembled Race GP 4300
- Futaba S9602 Servo High-Speed Min
- Associated LRP Sphere Brushless/Brushed ESC

Now, I'm stuck on what motor and gearing to get for it. Should I start out with a stock motor with a 27T wind or should I go with a 19T wind?

And if I go with either one, what spur/pinion combo should I get? The track is about 100' x 20'. Basically the size of a basketball court.

BTW, what do you guys think of the Hot Bodies Twister 2.1 ESC? Good?

Thanks.
z1nonly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 10:46 PM   #18548
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by z1nonly
Hey guys. I'm looking into starting 1/12 on-road. I'm not all new to onroad but still a newb to electrics. I still run a Nitro TC3.

Anyways here are the things that I'll be getting to start out:
- RC12L4
-*Protoform 1/12 Speed 12 GTP Body
- Jaco 1/12 Medium Standard 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Green (2)
- Jaco 1/12 Medium Standard 3-Hole Wheel 1.40" Green (2)
- Trinity 4C VIS-PRO 35 Matched Unassembled Race GP 4300
- Futaba S9602 Servo High-Speed Min
- Associated LRP Sphere Brushless/Brushed ESC

Now, I'm stuck on what motor and gearing to get for it. Should I start out with a stock motor with a 27T wind or should I go with a 19T wind?

And if I go with either one, what spur/pinion combo should I get? The track is about 100' x 20'. Basically the size of a basketball court.

BTW, what do you guys think of the Hot Bodies Twister 2.1 ESC? Good?

Thanks.
Green dots are still good tires but they wear really fast with todays batteries and motors. Gray rears and purple fronts would be a better call. Also, I'm a little confused about the 1.40", if you mean tire size that's way too small and your tires won't even be lower than the chassis, especially with a L4 that doesn't come with lowered pods.

You'd probably be better off with batteries from a smaller matcher, and I and most others prefer the IB batteries (3800 or 4200).

The Futaba S9602 is a good servo.

If you're going to get the sphere you might as well get a brushless motor to go along with it, especially if you're not going to be doing organized racing. If you're going to be racing with others just get what they're using as far as motors go. Decide what motor you want and we can help you with gearing.

Are you sure that's the size of the track, is it just two long straights and two hairpins?

The twister 2.1 is a good ESC but probably not a good choice for someone new to electric since in order to get the most out of it you should get the setup tools that go along with it.
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 09:39 AM   #18549
Tech Master
 
STARSCREAM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,351
Default L4

Id go with a airtronics servo for the L4..eventhough associated now has cool adjustable, aluminum servo mounts; the chassis servo mount holes are drilled to fit a airtronics case perfectly...PINK rears unless you are running on carpet...then you will need harder rears to get that car to turn....
__________________
Sean Maybell

Team Associated/Reedy/LRP
STARSCREAM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 07:20 PM   #18550
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: California
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

anyone (I was told to ask OD) know what brand Ti ballstuds fit the smaller ball-end of dampener tubes?
__________________
www.freerice.com
Help hungry people while learning.
smojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 08:41 PM   #18551
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
anyone (I was told to ask OD) know what brand Ti ballstuds fit the smaller ball-end of dampener tubes?
You can use the Lunsford Mini-T ball studs #7181. They take a 2.5x.45 nut (don't ask me how Crashby figured this out)
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 09:21 PM   #18552
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: California
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

7181 doesn't look like it has enough threads to get a nut on with the rev.4 3mm plate.
__________________
www.freerice.com
Help hungry people while learning.
smojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 09:46 PM   #18553
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
7181 doesn't look like it has enough threads to get a nut on with the rev.4 3mm plate.
Sorry forgot about the new cross brace, you're right! The stud dia is larger than a 2/56 ball stud, so I just drill and tap the cross brace, then glue the ball stud in. I've only built a couple this way but haven't lost a ball stud (I think it helps to only partially thread the cross brace for a slight force fit on the ball stud threads)
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2006, 09:48 PM   #18554
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: California
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

do you know the size of the ball? I'm looking for something a little less permanent/labor intensive
__________________
www.freerice.com
Help hungry people while learning.
smojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2006, 12:57 AM   #18555
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
do you know the size of the ball? I'm looking for something a little less permanent/labor intensive
The ball is .391mm (.154"). Good Luck, I think you will spend more time and effort finding another ball stud (there's probably one out there somewhere; try 1/18 cars) than if you just use these and GET TO WORK!
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:51 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0