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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-16-2006, 04:17 AM   #18511
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dont worry about me.i look like crazy eyes from mr. deeds now but i will be fine. i am gonna try to gear up 1 tooth next time to see how it runs.i was told that the KD likes to be geared 1 tooth lower than a C2.some people say 1-2 higher.hmm,i will try it out though.i was real happy with it though.that was some fun racing though.i should have my car back together in time for the next race.that was some rough shizznit.
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Old 05-16-2006, 04:43 AM   #18512
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What is the size of the screw of the KO949 servo? and what length to use? counter sink or round head? thanks
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:14 AM   #18513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
What is the size of the screw of the KO949 servo? and what length to use? counter sink or round head? thanks
I use a 2.5x.45x8mm socket head screw. The head will fit into the hole on Kimbrough servo saver. A motor endbell screw will also work.
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:33 AM   #18514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
What is the size of the screw of the KO949 servo? and what length to use? counter sink or round head? thanks
use the screw from an old motor. the one that hold the endbell
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Old 05-16-2006, 12:19 PM   #18515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Could someone with a 12L4 or a T-Force tell me the measurement between the two screws side to side that hold the stand offs for the top deck on these cars? Thanks.
The cross brace standoffs on both the T-Fource and the L4 are 4.4 inches apart.
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Old 05-16-2006, 01:54 PM   #18516
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Default front track width 3.2r abp

Team CRC...
How come the front track on the 3.2r abp chassis is wider than the standard 3.2r chassis?

Also, I had to add shims to the dbl stack nuts at the football inorder for the rear pod to align with the main chassis. Is that normal or did I miss something in the assembly?

Thanks,
E
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Old 05-16-2006, 02:02 PM   #18517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Team CRC...
How come the front track on the 3.2r abp chassis is wider than the standard 3.2r chassis?
I also noticed some differences on a recent replacement chassis I bought for my T-Force. The front track adn wheelbase was different. Maybe some updates they are doing to the design?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Also, I had to add shims to the dbl stack nuts at the football inorder for the rear pod to align with the main chassis. Is that normal or did I miss something in the assembly?
Could it be a thickness difference between the chassis and the pod bottom plate?
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:03 PM   #18518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I use a 2.5x.45x8mm socket head screw. The head will fit into the hole on Kimbrough servo saver. A motor endbell screw will also work.
thanks alot
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:04 PM   #18519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
use the screw from an old motor. the one that hold the endbell
thanks alot
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Old 05-16-2006, 05:30 PM   #18520
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Awhile ago we had a discussion about battery placement and I mistakenly stated that batteries forward on a t-bar car is always more steering, etc....

Well-being a test-aholic that I am I had to find out so I took my normal set-up which is good i think and Only moved the batteries from full back to full forward in my t-fource and I pushed and even on exit was no steering. I mean I went across the apex of a 180 and kept going stright with wheel a full lock. I then went to batteries middle, more sauce on fronts and a little smaller circle and got most of the steering back, but a smoother feel. Car squared up well, but not as square as batteries back. I am now thinking of trying full caster and maybe a little stiffer center spring to see if I can make car have more steering, but remain smooth.

I guess thanks to this thread-one of the best on rctech!!

Ray
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Old 05-16-2006, 07:13 PM   #18521
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hey ray,

i found the same thing when wayne and i were testing our chassis kit.the further forward you move the cells,the less weight transfer under deceleration and acceleration.full back gave me the most steering and most aggressive feel.i generally start with them full back with my standard setup and creep them forward until double steer is eliminated.i only run on asphalt so i know it is different for you carpet munchers. all in all though i agree with you on this.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:33 PM   #18522
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I have a L3 and was wondering if a L4 chassis would be a direct swap ?
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:47 PM   #18523
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Default crc 3.2r

Hey guys, i just got my crc 3.2r ,and now, what items and hop ups i need to get it nto podium? lol
seriously, what extra parts i need? some castrer upgrades? spring? please, help me...here in Brazil nobody races this car, so i need some advices...

Tks alot.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:48 PM   #18524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy e
I have a L3 and was wondering if a L4 chassis would be a direct swap ?
Front body posts and screws are different...Minor cost to get the L4 posts.

Being able to move the batteries to the forward position is a plus with the L4.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:59 PM   #18525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piorc
Hey guys, i just got my crc 3.2r ,and now, what items and hop ups i need to get it nto podium? lol
seriously, what extra parts i need? some castrer upgrades? spring? please, help me...here in Brazil nobody races this car, so i need some advices...

Tks alot.
get the spring kit for the center and side springs that crc has so you have some tuning options. If you don't want all of them maybe the white and red side springs and gold, red, and copper center springs.

I would get a set of the IRS (irrgang) ride height adjusters they have half mm steps to fine tune ride height.

Also the front end shims from CRC to fine tune ride height up front.

I would definately get the low roll center kit for the car though. That really made the difference in the car. It locks in the rear end.

Other than that it comes with everything you need. You could get the reactive aluminum uprights, but to me its more for looks than performance.

$.02

Michael
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