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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-15-2006, 10:36 AM   #18496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradske
OD,

Thanks for the info on the tires. I am trying to get up there memorial weekend to try some things out. Anybody you know that runs a carpet knife at SWR? Trying to decide on whether to use the new thick chassis or go with the thin.

Brad
I think Larry Stevens is running a CK. I will check with him on the set up he is using. Jim Rose tried his Rev4 there and didn't like it.
IMO the thin chassis would be the way to go. No matter what the TC drivers say the bite (for 1/12th scale) is not that high.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:17 AM   #18497
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I figured that the thin chassis would be the way to go, especially since I built the car with the thick one. What was I thinking?

What ride height are you guys running? 4-5mm?

You mentioned that tire wear is an issue at SWR. Are we talking about 2mm + per run? The CRC High Roller tires I have are trued down to 48mm, will this be an issue?

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:30 AM   #18498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradske
I figured that the thin chassis would be the way to go, especially since I built the car with the thick one. What was I thinking?

What ride height are you guys running? 4-5mm?

You mentioned that tire wear is an issue at SWR. Are we talking about 2mm + per run? The CRC High Roller tires I have are trued down to 48mm, will this be an issue?

Thanks,

Brad
The car seems happy at about 4mm ride height. It is a smooth track so maybe you can run a little lower.
I'm getting about 1mm tire wear per run, depending on the compound.
You should be ok at 48mm for the rears. I am starting out at 47mm rear and 45mm front on my Parma tires.
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:13 PM   #18499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Any setups for the carpet knife on asphalt...what side springs and shock spring. oil. I'm thinking olive center with 30 weight oil, with blue side springs, and light damper lube. Is that close?

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=49
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Old 05-15-2006, 01:27 PM   #18500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The car seems happy at about 4mm ride height. It is a smooth track so maybe you can run a little lower.
I'm getting about 1mm tire wear per run, depending on the compound.
You should be ok at 48mm for the rears. I am starting out at 47mm rear and 45mm front on my Parma tires.

Thanks for the info. I just need to make the 5 hour drive up to Roseville and get some testing done.

Brad
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Old 05-15-2006, 02:40 PM   #18501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradske
Thanks for the info. I just need to make the 5 hour drive up to Roseville and get some testing done.

Brad
Good idea, cuz the boards there are kinda skeery
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Old 05-15-2006, 03:18 PM   #18502
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OD, while you are giving some info on 1/12 for Speedworld can you comment on approx roll out? I'm used to way smaller tracks and curious what would be my starting point for roll out?

Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2006, 03:43 PM   #18503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartarse88
That is absolutely true but until you get to very small pinions (15 or less teeth) the difference is insignificant and offset by the lower rotating mass of a smaller spur and pinion gear. Gears are very efficient.
The Biggest difference is the position of the motor in the pod, ie near to the axle or to the front of thepod. The same gearing using an 88t vs 100t spur moves the motor a reasonable distance.

-Scott
Yeah, thats why I said I was never able to feel it. But I never thought abotu the placement of the motor... makes sense.

-Korey
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Old 05-15-2006, 04:37 PM   #18504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
OD, while you are giving some info on 1/12 for Speedworld can you comment on approx roll out? I'm used to way smaller tracks and curious what would be my starting point for roll out?

Thanks!
I am at about 49 for stock. This is higher than I am used to, for instance at the Carpet Nats I rolled out at 45. I haven't run 19t yet but I think at least 55 for the C2. Sorry, no clue on mod.
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:27 PM   #18505
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Other than Mark Payne's site (which is very good) is there any other good 1/12 info sites??
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:54 PM   #18506
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Mike Lufaso has a killer website on T-bar car stuff. It's based around the Associated RC12L4, but it transfers to any t bar based car. I dont have the link though. You can probably just use the search funtion really fast.

-Korey
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:56 PM   #18507
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The URL is http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:54 PM   #18508
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52-54mm is the rollout sweet spot for the C2 in 4 cell 1/12th. 52mm is the better area to stay in. You have to have a certain brush setup to run closer to 54mm .
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:58 PM   #18509
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hey adrian,
my roll out was 52.59 on saturday.what a pain in the ass counting the teeth.my vision is shot now.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:51 PM   #18510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hey adrian,
my roll out was 52.59 on saturday.what a pain in the ass counting the teeth.my vision is shot now.
Thanks Jason...only a true friend would count an unmarked spur gear when asked! I had to run a 54.6mm roll out with the Integy Zzone 19 to keep up with you in our run after the main but thats pretty normal for that motor. In the main I was under geared by 2 teeth.
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