R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-14-2006, 02:05 PM   #18481
Tech Fanatic
 
RobS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chatham, Ontario
Posts: 806
Default

Depending on the roll out you want you could use a different size spur. I normally ran a 96 tooth spur for both stock and 19T racing at my local track. When I went out of town to race I had to gear way up, so I went down to a 88 tooth spur to get where I wanted to be.
__________________
Rob Say
Action Hobbies Kingsville
"In racing you never really lose. You either win, or learn."
RobS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 02:08 PM   #18482
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

I'm using Du-Mor spurs.
No one seems to use them anymore, weren't these "the" spur gears years ago (or am I mistaken)?
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 02:27 PM   #18483
Tech Elite
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 2,701
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Well.... lets say you have 2 gear setups that have the same overall ratio... but one has a smaller pinion and spur, and the other has a bigger pinion and spur. The one with the smaller pinion and spur will be less efficient, because there is less leverage on the wheels, thus makign it accelerate maybe a little smoother. When you use the bigger pinion and spur the transfer of power will be more effiicent, and possible accelerate harder. Thats just what I was told though... so I always try and get the biggest pinion and spur on the car as possible. I've never been able to feel a difference though.

-Korey
Thank Korey, I've heard something like that in past but always get it backwards. This applys to any car, 1/12 and otherwise.

I guess that's why my 1/12 has always has mad punch. I've been squeezing big pinions on that 96t spur by grinding the t-bar a little. I've got 36t pinion and 96t spur on there before.
Anthony.L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 02:38 PM   #18484
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
OD, is this car asphalt or carpet? The chassis looks thin which to means a asphalt car. It does look friggin cool also interesting chassis design.
The car is meant for low bite asphalt (read: club racing). Crashby and I were lamenting the short supply of parts for our beloved YRX12WE and figured out what we thought makes it work, so the new car has a thin chassis (2mm), wide battery spacing, long wheelbase and narrow front track, among other things. I doubt the car would work well on carpet.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 02:44 PM   #18485
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
I was wondering which brand of spur gear do you guys run for your 1/12? Anybody run Kawada or Xenon ones?
I like the gears from Precision Racing Systems, they are very straight and round. Kimbrough gears are great too. I used to use the Du Mor gears but now I don't use anything with less than 12 holes (for diff balls), that may explain why they have fallen out of favor. Not having 12 holes I mean, not because I don't use them...well you know what I mean.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 03:35 PM   #18486
TFR
Tech Master
 
TFR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,767
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Would these spurs from Speedtech work? I will be using them on an Rev.4 rear end with I believe big ring ball diff.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=392

Thanks.
__________________
Muchmore l AHRP l Xenon l Futaba
TFR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 04:11 PM   #18487
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
Would these spurs from Speedtech work? I will be using them on an Rev.4 rear end with I believe big ring ball diff.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=392

Thanks.
If the center hole is 3/8" they will work, I like to have 12 holes in the outer ring for a 12 ball diff, though. I have heard of putting balls in all 16 holes on gears like that but I don't know how well that works.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 07:50 PM   #18488
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Colorado, Above The Rest
Posts: 992
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpczx6
Don,t give up yet, carbon been hard to get lately. Lino has the new car out at the cutters place, so the new car should be out soon Its works great as I do have one of the protoypes. so hang in there a bit and go to the hyperfrom web and send Lino a email he has been working a lot trying to put his frist big race on this weekend
Doesn't sound like a good excuse to me. It is readily available from certain suppliers within 2 weeks tops.
__________________
Team BSR
Team Power Push
Protoform Race Bodies
KSKT Racing - #1 in SK Racing Chassis
Darkside Motorsports - "WE ARE WHAT'S NEXT." - www.darksidems.com
THE DARKSIDE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 07:51 PM   #18489
Tech Regular
 
Decathalon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sydney, Aus
Posts: 414
Does anyone know who other than CRC themselves sells the CRC lowered pod plates( part# 4241 ) for the L4? Someone who ships to Australia? I've tried contacting CRC via email with no succesess. The email addresses appear to be correct : info@teamcrc.com and service@teamcrc.com. Maybe they have a backlog, been 2 weeks though.

Also are these a direct bolt on item for the L4? How much do they lower it compared to the standard L4FT items?

Any help is much appreciated, Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-4241crc.jpg  
__________________
CRC GenX10 LE Pro 10 & SE WGT, Kyosho Plazma F1, Atomic VMII,Tamiya M05, 1/12th Scale (CRC Xti, Xi & T-Force, AE L4, Yokomo YRX12, Hara AH12) www.smaracing.org - Star Kebab Akihabara :)
Decathalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2006, 07:57 PM   #18490
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Adelaide..
Posts: 3,414
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to v0rtex Send a message via AIM to v0rtex Send a message via MSN to v0rtex
Default

Decathalon: PM Lineburner, he aparently stocks CRC stuff in Australia. LMK how you do, im looking at getting some myself even if just to improve the look
__________________
;)
v0rtex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2006, 02:21 AM   #18491
RAL
Tech Elite
 
RAL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,205
Trader Rating: 59 (100%+)
Default

Any setups for the carpet knife on asphalt...what side springs and shock spring. oil. I'm thinking olive center with 30 weight oil, with blue side springs, and light damper lube. Is that close?
__________________
TEAM ARAI GRIP ● J★STYLE ● P1 BRAND ● RÄLDESIGNWERKS ● FANTOM ● EXOTEK
RAL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2006, 07:27 AM   #18492
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 45
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
Well.... lets say you have 2 gear setups that have the same overall ratio... but one has a smaller pinion and spur, and the other has a bigger pinion and spur. The one with the smaller pinion and spur will be less efficient, because there is less leverage on the wheels, thus makign it accelerate maybe a little smoother. When you use the bigger pinion and spur the transfer of power will be more effiicent, and possible accelerate harder. Thats just what I was told though... so I always try and get the biggest pinion and spur on the car as possible. I've never been able to feel a difference though.

-Korey
That is absolutely true but until you get to very small pinions (15 or less teeth) the difference is insignificant and offset by the lower rotating mass of a smaller spur and pinion gear. Gears are very efficient.
The Biggest difference is the position of the motor in the pod, ie near to the axle or to the front of thepod. The same gearing using an 88t vs 100t spur moves the motor a reasonable distance.

-Scott
Smartarse88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2006, 08:14 AM   #18493
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 45
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Here are some shots of my new car.
OD,

Sorry if has been asked before, what washers / spacers are you using to set the front rider height?
Thanks
Scott
Smartarse88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2006, 10:14 AM   #18494
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Paso Robles, Ca
Posts: 42
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

OD,

Thanks for the info on the tires. I am trying to get up there memorial weekend to try some things out. Anybody you know that runs a carpet knife at SWR? Trying to decide on whether to use the new thick chassis or go with the thin.

Brad
bradske is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2006, 10:26 AM   #18495
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartarse88
OD,

Sorry if has been asked before, what washers / spacers are you using to set the front rider height?
Thanks
Scott
The ride height adjusters are the ones made for the Yokomo YRX12WE. They come in .8mm and 1.6mm. They are still shown on the Yokomo USA website but I don't know if they are still available.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (1 members and 3 guests)
TCarr
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:53 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0