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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-12-2006, 04:09 PM   #18451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Use some caution when adding shims to shock mounts etc. as it will have an affect on the cars handeling. I beleive that adding shims at the mount raising the shock will give you more on power steering.

E
That is true. Many Rev4 drivers have been raising the front shock mount for some time now.

FWIW I agree with Timmay, I still use the standard set up. After many seasons of popping the shock end off and on there is no play in any of the ball cups on my cars. One thing to note is that AE ball cups have a lot of play in them when brand new, and not "distorted", thats why I use RPM ball cups. I have seen pros cars with o rings on the ball studs, BTW.

I don't think there is anything wrong with Mark Payne's set up, it looks like a fine way to do the job; for me the old way is easier and quicker.
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:14 PM   #18452
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First, my post was not meant as a flame, just a suggestion. The fact that you took offense to it is... nm. I thought you were using a link end... at work I have all pictures turned off due to the 'net police. So, sorry for not noticing the implemented set-up. It does look pretty trick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Uh, yeah. Just how many of the "team drivers" are using o-rings to take up the slack in their distorted ball cups? You have deviated further from their set-ups than fitting an alternate (and slop-free) removable ball end assembly.
Never distorted... I never seen one on a team driver's car in that condition, neither are mine they get replaced before then. The slack the o-ring is taking up is max, a couple of thousandths. I have seen quite a few hot wheels with o-rings, too.

As mentioned in Ericf's post, shims under the ball stud is a setting that we like to play with. Math is not my strong suit, and I don't want to have to try to figure out what proper shim I would need to use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Finally, this may be the hot ticket for those of you who are "discussing set-ups with the team drivers", those of us here in the real world are finding our own set-ups and continuing to fine-tune those. Of course, the maybe two or three drivers on this list who could demonstrate a measurable lap time difference with EITHER set-up in a blind test between the two...
I am not a team driver. I don't claim to be the best driver, or know everything that effects what. I do know this, discussing set-ups with more than one person (yourself) is the fastest way to find the ideal set-up for a track. You should have seen Team Losi at the dirt nationals last year work as a team to figure out the best set-up for the track that they were racing on. F1 teams use all three drivers to nail down what set-ups work well, and you better bet that NASCAR drivers and other top level teams all pool their knowledge base.

I hope we get to meet someday. You seem like an interesting person.
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:17 PM   #18453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
whoa timmay, don't take offense. I was simply posting the lazy man way (aka my way).
No offense taken at all. I try never to flame on the net. My keyboard is not fireproof or bullet proof. People that know me, know that I love to joke and have fun more than let a tiny thing get the best of me.
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Old 05-13-2006, 03:11 AM   #18454
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who makes the "olive" VCS shock spring?
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Old 05-13-2006, 04:45 AM   #18455
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I have given up on Hyperform. I need a car that I can get parts for, so I am going to covert my 12th scale back to something that I can get parts for. Could someone with a 12L4 or a T-Force tell me the measurement between the two screws side to side that hold the stand offs for the top deck on these cars? Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:47 AM   #18456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I have given up on Hyperform. I need a car that I can get parts for, so I am going to covert my 12th scale back to something that I can get parts for. Could someone with a 12L4 or a T-Force tell me the measurement between the two screws side to side that hold the stand offs for the top deck on these cars? Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2006, 05:10 PM   #18457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
who makes the "olive" VCS shock spring?
It is the Associated green 6lb spring.
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Old 05-13-2006, 05:31 PM   #18458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian L
It is the Associated green 6lb spring.
Sweet!
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Old 05-13-2006, 06:54 PM   #18459
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Default Foams for Asphalt

Looking at racing in Roseville for the nats and was trying to get some ideas on tires, pink rear/purple front? I have a few sets of the crc high rollers and thought I might ask for any suggestions.

Also, anybody who has raced out there before what is tire wear like? I will be running a CRC CK 3.2R.

Thanks,

Brad Lee
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Old 05-13-2006, 07:42 PM   #18460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I have given up on Hyperform. I need a car that I can get parts for, so I am going to covert my 12th scale back to something that I can get parts for. Could someone with a 12L4 or a T-Force tell me the measurement between the two screws side to side that hold the stand offs for the top deck on these cars? Thanks.


Don,t give up yet, carbon been hard to get lately. Lino has the new car out at the cutters place, so the new car should be out soon Its works great as I do have one of the protoypes. so hang in there a bit and go to the hyperfrom web and send Lino a email he has been working a lot trying to put his frist big race on this weekend
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Old 05-13-2006, 07:50 PM   #18461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
You guys are funny Too bad we live far from each other...I would love battling w/Tim in the Masters class every week...Nah, I'd rather race w/you young guys. Hope to see you soon.




tell hobbytown to put in a ramp as I'm to old to get up the stairs I might have to drive from the ground also as my eyes are getting bad (yet we still whip those two young boys) hope to run down there soon as I here you will get the reg 9 again for the 4th year now need to get the 1/12 out on tha pavement somemore.


P2 I will be there for the sws races
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Old 05-13-2006, 08:44 PM   #18462
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Hi all,

I'll start in 1/12 and I'm chooosing with car I'll get. I'm considering CRC 3.2R, CRC T-Fource and Associated 12L4. My track is outdoor, asphalt, and bumpy. Anyone can indicates the better car for this "condition"?

Other question is about the servo, with servo is a good option, I read that CRC can says: fit almost servos, but I think standard servos will not fit into them? I'm right?

thanks

Sampaio
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:01 PM   #18463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampaio
Hi all,

I'll start in 1/12 and I'm chooosing with car I'll get. I'm considering CRC 3.2R, CRC T-Fource and Associated 12L4. My track is outdoor, asphalt, and bumpy. Anyone can indicates the better car for this "condition"?

Other question is about the servo, with servo is a good option, I read that CRC can says: fit almost servos, but I think standard servos will not fit into them? I'm right?

thanks

Sampaio
Any of those cars you mentioned will do well with the right setup on them. The AE RC12L4 and T-Fource are very similar in design, the only difference is the T-Fource come with side springs and damper tubes while the 12L4 has a damper disc. I'm also 99% sure the T-Fource comes with lowered rear pods, however the RC12L4 does not. All in all I'd recommend the T-Fource first, followed by the RC12L4 then the 3.2R. As for servo's you have to run a micro servo. You may be able to fit some standard servo's in, but they add weight and would make fitting the rest of the electronics really tight. The JR 3550 or JR 3650 would be perfect for 12th scale servos. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:08 PM   #18464
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Hi Robs,

thanks, you not have idea about how you help me. I'm only courious and I know this question is too much personal, why RC12L4 before 3.2?

cheers

Sampaio
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:30 PM   #18465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sampaio
Hi Robs,

thanks, you not have idea about how you help me. I'm only courious and I know this question is too much personal, why RC12L4 before 3.2?

cheers

Sampaio
Well usually you hear T-bars cars are more suited to asphalt racing rather then carpet, and link cars are more suited to carpet racing rather then asphalt. I put the 12L4 before the 3.2 only because its the same general design as the T-Fource, only less tuning options. The 3.2R can be setup to run well on asphalt, and if memery serves me correctly Marc Rheinhard and Jilles Groskamp used 3.2's on asphalt and did very well with them. IMHO you can't go wrong with any of the three you've listed...
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