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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-09-2006, 07:11 AM   #18406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
That is ok. I won't call you old man yet. I will give you a few more years before I do.
but I will.

He is an "OLD" man. hehehe
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Old 05-09-2006, 07:55 AM   #18407
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Yang, that is just wrong. However that old man will stay lay the smack down on you as well as along with me.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:52 AM   #18408
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i am not sure that roar allows seeing eye dogs on the driver stand.
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:18 PM   #18409
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so im loooking into a CRC 3.1 or a blackwidow i dont know anything about 1/12s tho,
so here what i know im going to get
9teen-motor
XR3-Radio
4 cell sattle pack 3800's by trinty

so i guess i want to know

is wich one to buy (as in the widow or the 3.1)? and whats a small speedo with about a 10 turn limit thats has reverse? im planing on running it at a 1 year old black top up the street thats free of things to mess up cars, and a occasional carpet track when i go to airazona to see my father

what about parts avalbility for the CRC

and excuse my noob-ness
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Old 05-09-2006, 04:02 PM   #18410
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You'll find parts easier for the 3.1 for sure. A lot of times the trinity 1/12 have always had issues with parts support... I could be wonrg abotu the widow though. LRP should have the quantum reverse esc's that are small and have reverse. They have several different versions as well.

-Korey
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Old 05-09-2006, 06:22 PM   #18411
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Does this look to be a pretty "standard" way for a beginner to run their servo/steering set up on a stock 12L4? The turnbuckles are in line with one another, there is no binding, and the servo is in the forward and lower position on a stock AE angled servo mount. Just making sure I am not WAY out in left field. When viewed from the rear of the car the turnbuckles are parallel with the upper arms.

Also . . .does any one have any decent pics (or links to them) of the best way to run my antenna up the rod? Maybe even a brief how to would be nice. I am trying to get this car to look nice and clean/neat/factory.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:08 PM   #18412
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Some will probably flame, but I always rubber mount my servos. I have broken the ears off more than one time. Also, always use all 4 screws.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:35 PM   #18413
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Hi everyone i hope you dont mind a Noob to 12th onroad in here but i have a few questions. first thing is what wheel does everyone prefer? trc, crc? or what. i kinda like crc but wanna know what you think. another thing is im having problems keeping my car straight when i get on throttle. thanks in advance

Last edited by VooDooFlaNotch; 05-10-2006 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:46 PM   #18414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Does this look to be a pretty "standard" way for a beginner to run their servo/steering set up on a stock 12L4? The turnbuckles are in line with one another, there is no binding, and the servo is in the forward and lower position on a stock AE angled servo mount. Just making sure I am not WAY out in left field. When viewed from the rear of the car the turnbuckles are parallel with the upper arms.

Also . . .does any one have any decent pics (or links to them) of the best way to run my antenna up the rod? Maybe even a brief how to would be nice. I am trying to get this car to look nice and clean/neat/factory.
I've seen plenty of cars set up that way, I'm not sure if it is the optimum geometry, though. On the SpeedMerchant cars with the servo mounted flat the car seems to work better with the tie rods angled back from the servo saver to the spindle.

Maybe Adrian or somebody could enlighten us on the effects of these different geometries.

For routing the antenna I just run it up the roll over and shrink wrap it down, with the excess hanging out the top. I used to use the Paragon Pro Stick antenna which is a hollow graphite antenna. On those you can notch the bottom of the antenna mount and run the wire up inside the antenna-very clean! No, it does not affect the signal.
SpeedMerchant now has a very cool hollow graphite antenna that you could treat the same way, although with so many racers using DSM your 92 mm of antenna is supposed to just stick up unattached.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:11 PM   #18415
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Quote:
i recently switched from another battery company to VooDoo and ever since ive had way to much power to keep the car str8.
I smell something funny...
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:36 PM   #18416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooFlaNotch
i recently switched from another battery company to VooDoo and ever since ive had way to much power to keep the car str8.
I was actually thinking of SELLing OUT all my 1/12th scale stuff. But posts like this make me not want to SELL OUT.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:39 PM   #18417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I've seen plenty of cars set up that way, I'm not sure if it is the optimum geometry, though. On the SpeedMerchant cars with the servo mounted flat the car seems to work better with the tie rods angled back from the servo saver to the spindle.

Maybe Adrian or somebody could enlighten us on the effects of these different geometries.

For routing the antenna I just run it up the roll over and shrink wrap it down, with the excess hanging out the top. I used to use the Paragon Pro Stick antenna which is a hollow graphite antenna. On those you can notch the bottom of the antenna mount and run the wire up inside the antenna-very clean! No, it does not affect the signal.
SpeedMerchant now has a very cool hollow graphite antenna that you could treat the same way, although with so many racers using DSM your 92 mm of antenna is supposed to just stick up unattached.
THX. I am not running DSM so I have quite a bit of antenna to manage. I like the sound of the hollow antenna. Till I can try one, I figured I would just wrap the antenna around the FG shaft and then shrink in in place.

Another ? Is there any need to touch up my rear tires with my truer after each week of racing in 1/12? I am rotating all my tires side to side after each qual and main, just wasn't sure there was a need to check for coning on the rear tires as then turn on a common axle. I re-true my fronts after each week to remove any cone.
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:49 PM   #18418
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i deffinatly dont recommend selling out. this 12th stuff is great. i have the crc car and its pretty sweet. just cant get it right yet. im a noob like i said does anyone have any info for me on how to set the thing up so its more stable on power?
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:26 PM   #18419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
I smell something funny...
I smell Timmay not racing tonight =(

Should be a nice Tuesday crowd from here on out though, bring your 12th scale so Shawn and I don't have to run alone =)

Nick
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Old 05-09-2006, 11:18 PM   #18420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
i am not sure that roar allows seeing eye dogs on the driver stand.

woof woof one for right and two for left right P2


us old men(P2 & tpczx6) seam to lay the smack down on both of you (theisgroup & Carlosg)
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