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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-07-2006, 12:44 AM   #18376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Hey guys let's talk bodies for a second. I'm running two classes (19t and stock) at paved nats and bringing the following bodies. What is everyone's opinion on each and what class they are best for?

Protoform 12
Protoform 12b
Parma Speed 8
Speed 12 has the highest amouNT of downforce out of all of those bodies. I've generally liked it when the traction is a touch lower, or when running mod. Speed 8 is freakin dialed on carpet for stock and 19T, and is usually pretty good in mod too, but it has less downforce overall. It frees up the car a touch. The 12B is in the middle of the two.... probably a good all around body. If It were me, I always try to have a Speed 12 and a Speed 8 on hand.

Carpet knife setup on asphalt..... Go with CRC pro cut tires, pink compound in the rear, and purple up front. .020 front springs, 1 deg of camber, 10 deg fo reactive, caster shims on each side of the arm. For center spring... try a silver or blue center spring with 35wt oil and see how you like it. I run white side springs and use 7000wt oil in the tubes. Try the CRC white cap tube lube too. If you need more steering and the track is smooth go to a red center spring..... and try magenta front tires too. Maybe even put some 10,000wt or Blue tube lube in the damper tubes. Hope that helps you some.

-Korey
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Old 05-07-2006, 12:49 AM   #18377
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Oh yea.... make sure you run the low roll center option parts in the rear end as well.

-Korey
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Old 05-07-2006, 12:26 PM   #18378
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Default low roll

What is the low roll option for the 3.2r? I've read to use it a few times but don't know what it consists of. is it shims or different parts?

Thanks
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Old 05-07-2006, 01:42 PM   #18379
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Some different parts and some shims. It lowers the pivot point of the football assembly in the rear. It sucks the rear end down, and smooths the entire car out.

-Korey
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Old 05-07-2006, 05:09 PM   #18380
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Carl...... Use the Losi Tuning Brick... you know... tie a brick to any Losi and throw it in the nearest river..... He He He (think evil laugh). Though you aren't talking about a Losi and since I will be playin' R/C with you this weekend, It is the best advise that I can think of for you ....

I am breaking out the steel T-plate on the L4 for the race this weekend.... and I'm not afraid to use it....
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Old 05-07-2006, 05:51 PM   #18381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zootcapri
Carl...... Use the Losi Tuning Brick... you know... tie a brick to any Losi and throw it in the nearest river..... He He He (think evil laugh). Though you aren't talking about a Losi and since I will be playin' R/C with you this weekend, It is the best advise that I can think of for you ....

I am breaking out the steel T-plate on the L4 for the race this weekend.... and I'm not afraid to use it....
zoot i would go to the ck it is a sweat car i know most all you run is ae but i think if you ran the knife you would like it
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Old 05-07-2006, 05:55 PM   #18382
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What can you do to stiffen up the side to side movement of the pod on an RC12L4? I've heard putting thick grease on the pads is the way to go, any other suggestions?

Also, does anyone have a link to the RC12L4 Manual, I got my car 2nd hand, hence no box/manual/etc.
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Old 05-07-2006, 06:01 PM   #18383
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i use 1/8th 3000 wt diff oil on the washers to dampen the rear pod.works very well
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Old 05-07-2006, 06:02 PM   #18384
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Thanks, ill give that a shot. I have plenty of that oil just lying around
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:06 PM   #18385
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any new info / tricks / tuning for the co27?
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Old 05-07-2006, 09:41 PM   #18386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v0rtex
does anyone have a link to the RC12L4 Manual, I got my car 2nd hand, hence no box/manual/etc.
http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...hub_onroad.htm

I just bought a RC12L4 last week and have been putting it together.
I understand 1/12 pan cars are hard to drive but I'm willing to take some time and learn it. I'm running it with a stock motor and plan on just playing with it for awhile, get the hang of it before I'll consider racing it.
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Old 05-07-2006, 10:50 PM   #18387
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all the popular bodies are good...but remember Masami won the last worlds with a Parma body...alot can be learned from the Yoda of 12th scale...
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Old 05-07-2006, 10:53 PM   #18388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanyblaze
all the popular bodies are good...but remember Masami won the last worlds with a Parma body...alot can be learned from the Yoda of 12th scale...
He also designed and won 2002 Worlds with this body...

http://www.yokomousa.com/bodies/12th_MS_1.jpg

Which I can find in stock anywhere to try.
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Old 05-07-2006, 10:54 PM   #18389
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Anyone know what size spacers under the front of the old school front end give 5 and 10 degress of caster?
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Old 05-07-2006, 10:56 PM   #18390
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Check with a camber guage. Just line it up next to the kingpins... That should give you a general idea.

-Korey
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