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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 05-04-2006, 05:02 PM   #18361
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last post on page 608:

KO Propo 949
Futaba 9650
Airtronics 94145
JR 3550
JR 3650

there may be others, but these seem to be the standards, in no particular order.
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:27 PM   #18362
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Does anyone know a Hitec servo that is suitable for a 1/12th? Im looking at getting a servo for my L4 tonight, and my LHS has mainly Hitec servos.
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:28 PM   #18363
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Originally Posted by RAL
ok new to the 1/12 thing. What servo specs are right for 1/12 as far as speed and torque?Any thoughts for best bang for the buck for performance on a servo?
JR Z3550
Speed Merchant/Corally USA/Specialized RC/Team Kwik/Tekin/Sweep/Parma PSE/Team Pickles Performance
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:31 PM   #18364
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Originally Posted by v0rtex
Does anyone know a Hitec servo that is suitable for a 1/12th? Im looking at getting a servo for my L4 tonight, and my LHS has mainly Hitec servos.
I would avoid a Hitec servo at all costs. For a 12th scale car you need very precise centering, and Hitecs are the worst for that. If possible, get a KO, JR, Futaba, or even Airtronics, any one of those would be better than a Hitec.

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Old 05-04-2006, 05:32 PM   #18365
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Does anybody have a setup for the Hara Hammer for outdoor asphalt?
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:40 PM   #18366
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Originally Posted by odpurple
ok Nick, here is my setup:
Same as EJ's, but you drive a lot slower and hit more stuff

Also (if anyone cares) I use Parma tires and Speed 8 body.
I think I can handle that =)

If it looks like I am doing too good i'm sure Ed will be around to finish me off =D

Team Kwik
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Old 05-05-2006, 04:53 AM   #18367
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vOrtex - I'm running a Hitech 225BB " Mighty Mini " servo in my L4. So far no problems with centering. They're cheap and for the money you can't beat them for speed and torque. Yes as others say centering is big thing for 1:12's and a higher quality servo would be ideal, KO etc, but so far my budget 225BB is doing great. The only thing with the 225 though is with the standard L4 mounts, if you want the servo in the lowest position, the 225 is a fraction too long. Easily fixed by chamfering ( sorry crazy spelling ) the bottom edge of the case at 45 degrees very slighlty, about 0.5 - 1 mm so can just clear the chassis.
CRC GenX10 LE Pro 10 & SE WGT, Kyosho Plazma F1, Atomic VMII,Tamiya M05, 1/12th Scale (CRC Xti, Xi & T-Force, AE L4, Yokomo YRX12, Hara AH12) www.smaracing.org - Star Kebab Akihabara :)
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Old 05-05-2006, 05:19 AM   #18368
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Couldn't you just add some washers between the servomounts and servohorns, or between the servomounts and chassis... ohh well, it all works I guess.
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
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Old 05-05-2006, 08:52 AM   #18369
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Are Associated and CRC springs the same?
ie, is a red Associated the same as a red CRC?

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Old 05-05-2006, 11:32 AM   #18370
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Originally Posted by lukless
Are Associated and CRC springs the same?
ie, is a red Associated the same as a red CRC?

Yes, CRC and everyone else buys their springs (Center Shock and Front suspension) from Associated. Only the pod side springs are unique to CRC.
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 05-05-2006, 11:59 AM   #18371
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actually CRC side springs were wolfe progressive oval front springs.

They may make their own now but that is where they originated.
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Old 05-05-2006, 12:01 PM   #18372
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Thank you.
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Old 05-05-2006, 12:02 PM   #18373
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Tempest is correct, wolfe also makes the SpeedMerchant "Black" center spring and their old side springs. I think Frank is using the new side springs Bruce had manufactured. They are way better than the Wolfe springs, they clip on super easy and smooth and they are smoother when compressed.
Speed Merchant/Corally USA/Specialized RC/Team Kwik/Tekin/Sweep/Parma PSE/Team Pickles Performance
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:07 PM   #18374
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Hey guys let's talk bodies for a second. I'm running two classes (19t and stock) at paved nats and bringing the following bodies. What is everyone's opinion on each and what class they are best for?

Protoform 12
Protoform 12b
Parma Speed 8
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:33 PM   #18375
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Can anyone help me out with a CRC carpet knife set up for asphalt. I went to their site and they only have carpet set ups.
RC Car Action Editor and Photographer
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