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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-03-2006, 01:14 PM   #18346
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Good Michael. I'd say we both have VERY good T-fources!! Its definately going to Vegas. I think I will keep concentrating on the 3.2r all summer. Really try to understand it more. YOu know thats what Frank, Dayger and the rest of Team CRC will be tuning to win!!

I havent tried battery forward in the t-fource. I slam-em all the way back, then tape-em down!!! Next time I run it I'll shove-em say 3mm forward and see what it does. One thing i know-1.64" rears are TOOOOOO small-to small!
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:58 PM   #18347
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Barrys, TeamCRC, RayH...Thanks for the fast answers.

I plan on running 1/12 mod and 19T foam. I've been looking at going brushless for my 1/12. I'm looking at the LRP sphere with the 3 or 4 star motor. Have any of you guys tried that setup (brushless)?

Do you guys generally start with a high traction chassis setup and change the tires to suit new carpet or do you do both, chassis and tires?

What tire compunds do you guys like to strat with or do you stay with the same compound all week? What brands do you guys like?

Thanks,
E
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #18348
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Skeen and Ray....I have been running a T-force chassis on my L4 so I guess it more a CRC car with pucks then it is a L4. Either way I like the battery full forward on the T-force chassis. I agree with Skeen that when the pack is in the rear of the chassis there is more steering feel but I think it might be a false sense of steering as the car is doing more of a swinging effect and isn’t as consistent for me. With the cells full forward the car is more consistent feeling and it also doesn’t seem to use as much rear tire during a run. This is just my take on cell placement over the last season on the t-force chassis.
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Old 05-03-2006, 06:54 PM   #18349
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Ray and Tempest,

In oval racing when we move the batteries back the car turns more than having them more forwad. The reason is that the weight (battery mass) will have a further distance to travel which will transfer more weight thus unloading the rear of the car more. A real world example would be a NASCAR in that when they start off after a pit stop the cars are very free due to a full fuel load (and low air pressure) as the run goes on under green they tend to tighten up due to fuel burn off and can not transfer as much weight to the front tires (or the right front for an oval car).

The reson why this works in on-road is that the battery mass further back will allow more weight transfer to the front unlike having the battery already moved to the front. When you move the battery to the front it puts the mass of the battery already further forward allowing not as much weight to transfer.
You car will feel like it turns more but it's just because you have more weight closer to the front (like putting 2 oz of lead on ther front of the car). In order to counter act this feel you need to make sure you have sitffer springs and or add preload to maintain the same droop. If you do not do this the car should be very erratic to drive and not very smooth to drive at all.


The reason why CRC makes a chassy such as the APB (or atleast I think this is the reason) is that in some high bite tracks if you run the batteries further back you will transfer more weight and be more prone to traction rolling. Verses moving the battery up and running stiffer springs. If you take a look at Frank's set up from Vegas last year he ran .022 springs when he normally runs .018 springs.

I hope this helps.

-Monti-

Last edited by Monti; 05-03-2006 at 07:08 PM.
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:06 PM   #18350
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Monti and Kevin are right.

Kevin - your car is more consistant with the batts forward because it has less weight transfer as you turn into corners. Becuase you run on carpet with good traction you do not need all the corner entry steering that you get from a rear battery position. In fact the rear position would make your car feel darty off power.

However, if you ever need more turn in...move them back. The increase in weight transfer increases front traction and coupled with a longer shock and some rear pod droop makes the car rotate harder into corners by unloading the rear tires.
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:03 PM   #18351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Hey guys (Ray, Adrian, OD, Bill, anyone)... does anyone have any advice on starting setups for big carpet races? For instance what size and type of tires, ride height, springs, oil, etc.

I'm mainly asking about link cars. CRC 3.2r specifically, but I think any advice for any car would be helpful.

I'll be going to the IIC and I'd like to (hpefully) be somewhat competive and not just a moving road dot.

Thanks,
E
Eric,

Listen to these guys. Geeze, they spilled all the beans!

Only thing I can add is that the Calandra setup is what Frank ended up for the mains when the traction was unbelievably high. As OD says, you will likely be changing your setup as the traction increases. I am sure that the CRC team drivers will share setup information with you to assure that your Knife (and you) do well.

I forgot (likely because I am older than OD), the first round at last year's IIC was almost comical on that green track. I' m not used to seeing 1/12th stock cars having traction problems.

Oh, I do like the CRC Pro-Cuts.
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:35 PM   #18352
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Good stuff.. I am glad to hear a different perspective on the whole battery forward or back thing. I thought I had that one nailed down, but it appears I got a lot more to learn-or-test, which is NOT a suprise to me at all!!!
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Old 05-04-2006, 09:17 AM   #18353
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Can some one post some good CRC and Speedmerchant Link car setups here. I only run T-bar cars so I can't be very helpful to link car guys and lately all we have been posting about is T-bar setups....we have to be fair and cover all the bases
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Old 05-04-2006, 09:49 AM   #18354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decathalon
Ride height is 4mm due to outdoor surfaces, same front and rear ( shall try lower front, thanks ) and body is Corally Nissan P35 but will be using Protoform Speed 12 from now on.

Thanks
The P35 has some understeer.
The change in body style will definately be noticeable!
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Old 05-04-2006, 10:56 AM   #18355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Can some one post some good CRC and Speedmerchant Link car setups here. I only run T-bar cars so I can't be very helpful to link car guys and lately all we have been posting about is T-bar setups....we have to be fair and cover all the bases
Here's the set up we used on EJ Evans Rev4 at the Carpet Nats (7th place stock):

L4 front end
10 deg blocks
caster 6 deg (two shims back)
camber neg 1.5 deg
.020 springs
servo on angle mounts
0 deg toe
BSR Black tires 43 mm
ride height 4mm

shock oil 35 wt
blue shock spring
front shock mount raised .090"
batteries back
.023 side springs, .5mm neg. preload
10k silicon in tubes

Monster stock 31/96
BSR White tires 45mm
4mm ride height
Speed 12B
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Old 05-04-2006, 11:13 AM   #18356
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EJ's car ran really well but his setup differed from the rest of the SpeedMerchant team in the A due to the new style front end. The other 6 of us ran old skool front ends and our setups were pretty much the same differing slightly based on tire and body brand.

.023 side springs
10k in tubes
Red or Gold center spring
35 in shock
.020 springs on old skool up front
2 deg castor
1/2 header card of camber

This setup was used by the guys running Jacos and Protoform bodies: Drew, Peter, TJ, and Alex. I don't know what compounds they were using as Mark Strasnick and I ran Parma tires and Parma Speed 8 bodies. Tthey were great

With the parma equipment, we ran slightly differently than the above setup:

We ran lighter side springs, .021 which is the equivilent to the old blue Wolfe spring.

for those interested in running parma tires at a big race, this is what we ran:

purple fronts 1.67" superglued high and firm
grey rears 1.77" superglued low and lightly just to keep the tire from peeling up at all

I Know Jarrod ran Parma purple/grey/speed 8 combo too, and I believe Jim Hermann did as well.

The only thing I change from big race to club race is front tire compound. I run magentas with no super glue for club racing. Otherwise I leave my setup pretty close to the same every where with an occasional center spring change. In very very low bite, I've run .018 front springs, .023 side springs and white rear tires.
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Old 05-04-2006, 11:39 AM   #18357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eforer
EJ's car ran really well but his setup differed from the rest of the SpeedMerchant team in the A due to the new style front end.
EJ's car is the first SM I've ever built using the L4 front end. I did that at his request because he is more familiar with it. I like the stock front end better and recommend that anyone building a Rev4 try it first.
I would have posted my own set up which was the same except for my old style front end, but who wants the setup from the last place car in the C?
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Old 05-04-2006, 12:08 PM   #18358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
who wants the setup from the last place car in the C?
People like me

Nick
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Old 05-04-2006, 05:53 PM   #18359
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ok new to the 1/12 thing. What servo specs are right for 1/12 as far as speed and torque?Any thoughts for best bang for the buck for performance on a servo?
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Old 05-04-2006, 06:01 PM   #18360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
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Nick
ok Nick, here is my setup:
Same as EJ's, but you drive a lot slower and hit more stuff

Also (if anyone cares) I use Parma tires and Speed 8 body.
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