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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-02-2006, 10:33 PM   #18331
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What's your ride height? The front should be 0.5mm lower than the rear.
What body?
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Old 05-02-2006, 11:04 PM   #18332
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Ride height is 4mm due to outdoor surfaces, same front and rear ( shall try lower front, thanks ) and body is Corally Nissan P35 but will be using Protoform Speed 12 from now on.

Thanks
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:56 AM   #18333
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Default CRC high tracton carpet setup

Hey guys (Ray, Adrian, OD, Bill, anyone)... does anyone have any advice on starting setups for big carpet races? For instance what size and type of tires, ride height, springs, oil, etc.

I'm mainly asking about link cars. CRC 3.2r specifically, but I think any advice for any car would be helpful.

I'll be going to the IIC and I'd like to (hpefully) be somewhat competive and not just a moving road dot.

Thanks,
E
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:03 AM   #18334
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Does anyone have the part number for an entire 12l4 front end ?
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:20 AM   #18335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Hey guys (Ray, Adrian, OD, Bill, anyone)... does anyone have any advice on starting setups for big carpet races? For instance what size and type of tires, ride height, springs, oil, etc.

I'm mainly asking about link cars. CRC 3.2r specifically, but I think any advice for any car would be helpful.

I'll be going to the IIC and I'd like to (hpefully) be somewhat competive and not just a moving road dot.

Thanks,
E
Key first question is stock or mod?
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:35 AM   #18336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Hey guys (Ray, Adrian, OD, Bill, anyone)... does anyone have any advice on starting setups for big carpet races? For instance what size and type of tires, ride height, springs, oil, etc.

I'm mainly asking about link cars. CRC 3.2r specifically, but I think any advice for any car would be helpful.

I'll be going to the IIC and I'd like to (hpefully) be somewhat competive and not just a moving road dot.

Thanks,
E
Frank's winning 2005 IIC setup is here;

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=39

For the 2006 event, we recommend to use the Pro Cut black fronts and grey rears. Pro Cuts were not available at the 2005 event.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:41 AM   #18337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Yeah...I'd heard "RDX" stands for "Really Delicate X-Ray"

Then again, the Corally guys say it's "Really Dialed X-Ray"

Would seem to be a matter of perspective.

Scottrik
still wheelin' my BMI TC3...
Roll-center changes Damn Xcruciating due to the difficulty level of making such a change on the car.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:44 AM   #18338
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Heres what I know so far on the CRC 3.2r.

-Batteries forward easier to drive, less steering (opposite of t-bar car). I use front and middle, never back.

-Heavier center spring is more steering mid off. I switch betyween red and gold. I prefer gold right now.

-Heavier side springs is faster transition, but can feel edgy. Choose between red and white. I always have contended this has more to do with driving style than anythng else. NO preload on sid springs most of the time. If cars edgy, real edgy-a 1/4 turn of preload can settle the car down quite a bit. Remember to take it out again if tracks layout or conditions change.

-More pod droop for bumps, but if track is smooth-then no more than 1/2 -thickness of chassis for droop. Put a straight edge on main chassis and see where it hits the back of pod plate. It should intersect the middle.

-Softer front springs of course more steering (cut), but may dig or square up too hard. I stick with 0.020". I tried 0.018 (Way too much steering for me) and 0.022 (push through whole corner). NO preload and just a hair of droop seems to be the norm. Too much droop in front springs and car will wander on-power. For 0.018" springs only-an e-clip worth of preload.

-tube lubes-I stick with CRC hvy and extra hvy these days. More dampeing to slow transition or soften steering in fast sweepers.

-NO chassis rake.

-like everything else-imho-tire choice is always hyper ciritical on a link car. Experiment with black and purple fronts and white or grey rears.

-#1 make sure the front suspension moves up and down super smooth and free. Look for binding in upper arm, eyelets, e-clip, top or bottom ball, etc. and of course rear pod must move through its entire rane of motion without binding or slop.

HOpe this helps to start you in the right direction.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:51 AM   #18339
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EricF-now to actually answer your questions lol...

Front tires for big races-start fronts 1.68 and rears start 1.78". I think these are max values. Ride height is the lowest you can set and pass tech AND not rub on the carpet to the detriment of speed and handling.

Springs, you may end up with red, gold, copper-best to have them all.
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:38 AM   #18340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Does anyone have the part number for an entire 12l4 front end ?
I couldn't find the AE part # (thought I'd seen it on the website, but...). CRC has a complete kit #1240, the picture shows and L3 front end but maybe they've updated it.
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:48 AM   #18341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Hey guys (Ray, Adrian, OD, Bill, anyone)... does anyone have any advice on starting setups for big carpet races? For instance what size and type of tires, ride height, springs, oil, etc.

I'm mainly asking about link cars. CRC 3.2r specifically, but I think any advice for any car would be helpful.

I'll be going to the IIC and I'd like to (hpefully) be somewhat competive and not just a moving road dot.

Thanks,
E
I Think Ray pretty much covered it, one thing to add is that since the track will be brand new carpet the bite will come up exponentially over the first couple of days. I was in the first heat of the event at last years IIC and it was like ice, by the end of the day it was good, and it just kept increasing. We were chasing the set up all week and never quite caught it (well ok Steve did on the last day).

Other than that the only thing I can show you is the "Moving Road Dot" part
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:53 AM   #18342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Roll-center changes Damn Xcruciating due to the difficulty level of making such a change on the car.
Fun with RC racing:

1) Enjoy working on your elegantly simple 1/12th scale race car.

2) Take pity on the poor Radio Shack car drivers, as they toil away.

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Old 05-03-2006, 12:01 PM   #18343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Does anyone have the part number for an entire 12l4 front end ?
4401, if you want either of the older styles look for 4402 & 4403
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Old 05-03-2006, 12:04 PM   #18344
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thanks...
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Old 05-03-2006, 01:00 PM   #18345
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Mr Ray Huang... I'll have you know I finally put my abp 3.2r together and ran it a few times. Not too bad now to work on the tuning a little.

I did notice I like whites better than red side springs. seemed that the softer spring actually allowed more rotation. but I haven't run but a couple of packs through it.

I only ran the batteries all the way back in my car though and seemed fine.

I will choose to disagree though on battery placement on a t-bar car though. All the way back I think creates more steering, but not because of the weight b/c it creates a pendelum effect going around the corner.

Every time I moved the batteries forward in a t-bar car I felt like it smoothed the car out and took away steering...

but that's just a feel thing so feel free to shoot holes in my theory LOL
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