R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-01-2006, 10:37 AM   #18301
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Girth
nevermind guys... i found it.. Team Laje...

www.laje.se
It's a really cool car, the anodize is gold colored, though, and the car comes assembled.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 10:55 AM   #18302
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Does someone knows how that car performs?
It looks great indeed, but how does that front end deal with crashes, just as "good" as the old Trinity (switchblade) front end?
It also looks a bit on the heavy side, but maybe I'm wrong...
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 11:24 AM   #18303
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Does someone knows how that car performs?
It looks great indeed, but how does that front end deal with crashes, just as "good" as the old Trinity (switchblade) front end?
It also looks a bit on the heavy side, but maybe I'm wrong...
The car (SpeedEvil 2006) works really well, although I haven't found the right setup yet (not enough track time). I think it is best for modified on carpet. It felt really good with a stock motor, but it is a bit heavy (well, my car has a rec pack). I crash enough to say that the front end holds up really well, in addition to being almost infinately adjustable.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 11:39 AM   #18304
Registered User
 
tomlau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 40
Default

Hi, just wondering if you guys could possibly help. Our track runs 19T 4 cell which it really picking up in popularity lately. Most people are running purple front grey rear which works really well, but the carpet we have is very high traction and very abrasive, and i seem to be killing tyres very fast.

Front arent quite as bad, but the rears wear very quickly. Ive noticed that pink rears are rated as 30 shore, which is the same as the grey. But whats the difference? I guess they are a different kind of rubber (foam) will they wear any different? or could someone possibly suggest a different tire combo that will work in these conditions, but offer slightly lower wear?

thanks
tomlau is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 12:37 PM   #18305
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Thanks OD for the explanation.

Tomlau, Greys actually have a shore rate of 29, so they are a bit softer than pinks.
About the foam types, greys are from the Japanese 'C' family (which stands for Carpet) and they are known that they wear a bit quicker than the Japanese 'R' (rear) tyres, and that's the rubber family where the pinks belong.
I attached a shore rating table which can be helpfull.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-shore-rating-12th.gif  
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 04:38 PM   #18306
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
doesn't look like a Rug Rat, unless it's an early one that is different than the current model.
It does look a little different, does anyone know what the PRC chassis looks like?
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 06:36 PM   #18307
Tech Adept
 
Team Girth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Long Beach
Posts: 103
Default

i e-mailed Team Laje... if anyone wants the newest pics let me know... just a few things different.
Team Girth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 07:06 PM   #18308
Tech Regular
 
Decathalon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sydney, Aus
Posts: 414
Default 12L4 Lowered Rear Pod and L4 Chassis suppliers.

Gentlemen, I'm new to 1/12 scale ( but loving it ) and have a few quick questions.

1:Besides IRS, does anyone else make lowered pod plates for the standard L4?

2:Also does any one make aftermaket Chassis that fits straight onto the L4?

I'm from Australia and 1/12 stuff is nearly non existant in stores here, so everything is ordered online. Even so L4 chassis seem to be hard to find. I'm contemplatiing trying to get them locally made.

Thanks

LN
__________________
CRC GenX10 LE Pro 10 & SE WGT, Kyosho Plazma F1, Atomic VMII,Tamiya M05, 1/12th Scale (CRC Xti, Xi & T-Force, AE L4, Yokomo YRX12, Hara AH12) www.smaracing.org - Star Kebab Akihabara :)
Decathalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 07:17 PM   #18309
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
It does look a little different, does anyone know what the PRC chassis looks like?
Definately not a Q12, it has a cf strap for battery retention, among other differences. I've never seen this chassis, if I had to guess, it looks like a Japanese version of something (big help, huh? )
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 07:35 PM   #18310
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

LN,

I like the CRC (Calandra) side pods over all others. Best tolerences and pricing.

BMI and Rugrats are two aftermarket chassis that come to mind. But why? The 12L4 is a pretty good all around chassis for both carpet and asphalt. Otherwise, think narrow battery placement for carpet and wide battery placement for asphalt.

Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by Decathalon
Gentlemen, I'm new to 1/12 scale ( but loving it ) and have a few quick questions.

1:Besides IRS, does anyone else make lowered pod plates for the standard L4?

2:Also does any one make aftermaket Chassis that fits straight onto the L4?

I'm from Australia and 1/12 stuff is nearly non existant in stores here, so everything is ordered online. Even so L4 chassis seem to be hard to find. I'm contemplatiing trying to get them locally made.

Thanks

LN
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 07:49 PM   #18311
Tech Regular
 
Decathalon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sydney, Aus
Posts: 414
Default

Bill, thanks for the info

Why? Because unfortunately, I delaminated mine . Freak accident involving a PVC pipe, a 1/10 Tourer and my L4 ) Not happy, but s#@t happens.
__________________
CRC GenX10 LE Pro 10 & SE WGT, Kyosho Plazma F1, Atomic VMII,Tamiya M05, 1/12th Scale (CRC Xti, Xi & T-Force, AE L4, Yokomo YRX12, Hara AH12) www.smaracing.org - Star Kebab Akihabara :)
Decathalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 07:53 PM   #18312
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Decathalon
Bill, thanks for the info

Why? Because unfortunately, I delaminated mine . Freak accident involving a PVC pipe, a 1/10 Tourer and my L4 ) Not happy, but s#@t happens.
PM me. I may have a stripped (or loaded) 12L4 chassis in the next few days.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 07:56 PM   #18313
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Decathalon
Bill, thanks for the info

Why? Because unfortunately, I delaminated mine . Freak accident involving a PVC pipe, a 1/10 Tourer and my L4 ) Not happy, but s#@t happens.
I think Bill's point is that the L4 chassis works great, and is probably more available than anything else. But the chassis of just about any 12L based car will bolt up. And remember to steer clear of the Radio Shack cars
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 08:11 PM   #18314
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I think Bill's point is that the L4 chassis works great, and is probably more available than anything else. But the chassis of just about any 12L based car will bolt up. And remember to steer clear of the Radio Shack cars
I had a point???
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2006, 08:14 PM   #18315
Tech Regular
 
Decathalon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sydney, Aus
Posts: 414
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I think Bill's point is that the L4 chassis works great, and is probably more available than anything else. But the chassis of just about any 12L based car will bolt up. And remember to steer clear of the Radio Shack cars

Thanks Guys. I like the Standard L4 Chassis and would like to stick with it, my only point is that it seems to be the hardest part to order. I found 2 places there in the US that had the genuine AE one in stock at $35USD but they wanted another $37USD for postage to Oz. With exchange rate that is half the price of an entire L4 just for a replacment chassis. I eventually did that, ordered an entire new L4 ( cheap Towers Deal, worked out cheaper than buying induvidual items ) but if the class takes off here, I'd just like to be able to source cheaper chassis for the future if possible.
__________________
CRC GenX10 LE Pro 10 & SE WGT, Kyosho Plazma F1, Atomic VMII,Tamiya M05, 1/12th Scale (CRC Xti, Xi & T-Force, AE L4, Yokomo YRX12, Hara AH12) www.smaracing.org - Star Kebab Akihabara :)
Decathalon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 5 (1 members and 4 guests)
TOADYY
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:03 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0