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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-25-2006, 03:48 PM   #18271
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Default Manuals

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Dude, its a photo copied mess. I would got to RC10.com and download an 12L4 manual, even though its a different car it would likely help you build your car just as fast! LOL

I cant complain i bought the car and for the price it was great, but man it would have been great to get a manual much nicer step by step build process with bags used in chronological order. And hey how about a page on initial setup? An info page on tire diameter?, unforutunaly pan car racers are left to fend for them selves.... This would all change if XRAY produced a 12th scale
For anyone who hasn't looked at it in a while, you should check out the SpeedMerchant Rev4 manual

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/support/support.html
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Old 04-25-2006, 04:39 PM   #18272
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Default esc etc

The time has come to retire my trusty, and heavy duratrax esc. what are peoples opinions on these esc's.
qc2 small, light
gtx small, light (without the capacitor)
sphere competition bigger, heavier, but with brushless capabilities

do all of these require a capacitor for 4 cell? does the sphere require the heatsink for brushed use? from what I understand the qc3 is pretty much the same as the qc2, with lipo capability.
How are people mounting their servos flat and still running a servo saver? mine (older digi ko) will need to be shimmed up 1/8" to clear, is there a certain servo saver that is smaller?

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2006, 06:41 PM   #18273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowyelan
The time has come to retire my trusty, and heavy duratrax esc. what are peoples opinions on these esc's.
qc2 small, light
gtx small, light (without the capacitor)
sphere competition bigger, heavier, but with brushless capabilities

do all of these require a capacitor for 4 cell? does the sphere require the heatsink for brushed use? from what I understand the qc3 is pretty much the same as the qc2, with lipo capability.
How are people mounting their servos flat and still running a servo saver? mine (older digi ko) will need to be shimmed up 1/8" to clear, is there a certain servo saver that is smaller?

Thanks
Some like the GTX, some like the QC2; they both work great and are the right size and weight for 1/12th. There are others that work well and are small too, like the KO. The Sphere is big, but for brushless it is a good choice. I always run the cap but for 4 cell you probably don't absolutely have to.

If you mount the servo flat you want it as low as possible (right on the deck). Whether you use shoo goo or mounts you will need to grind a divot in the chassis to clear the servo saver.
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:43 PM   #18274
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I could never get rid of my novak atom, i love that little thing, use it in micro and in 12th. That matched with my xxl is the SH**


Thanks for the info on tires guys. AGain im mostly bitching about how much tires are, in not a hack thats killing a set every race day, but I just feel we get hit pretty hard on tire prices considering the amount that a typical racer will go through.
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:46 PM   #18275
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cool
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:06 AM   #18276
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Hey guys, what's the best way to add a little more mid corner to exit steering on a T-Force?

Thanks,
Ike
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:59 AM   #18277
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Default NYLON RIMS

Hi all.
just wanting to know which tyres are mounted on NYLON rims?
The jacos break too easily and im wanting to find nylon rims.
mike
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:21 AM   #18278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Hey guys, what's the best way to add a little more mid corner to exit steering on a T-Force?

Thanks,
Ike
For more steering try:

1) More camber. (unless you're flippin')

2) Make the rear shock longer for more down travel. Not so long that the spring completely unloads though.

3) It sounds strange to some but move the batteries back if you can.
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:32 AM   #18279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Hey guys, what's the best way to add a little more mid corner to exit steering on a T-Force?

Thanks,
Ike
Just a couple questions to get a better picture of whats going on...

What surface, tires, tire sauce, reactive caster block and front springs are you running?
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Old 04-26-2006, 06:47 AM   #18280
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Ike, how did everything turn out last night? Does that body fit?
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:39 AM   #18281
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Anyone care to enlighten me as to the difference between the CRC carpet knife & the T-Force?? Plenty of 1/12 kits on the CRC website, but no recommendations for uses
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:29 AM   #18282
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The Carpet Knife is a link car while the T-Force is a T-bar car. Usually you will hear the Carpet Knife is better suited to indoor carpet racing while the T-Force is better suited to asphault racing. IMHO both cars work very well on either surface with the right setup so which ever car you go with you will like it...
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:26 AM   #18283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
Hey guys, what's the best way to add a little more mid corner to exit steering on a T-Force?

Thanks,
Ike
increasing the caster is the best way. it does exactly what you are looking for gives more steering mid to exit.

It all depends on what the rest of your setup is though.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:36 PM   #18284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Just a couple questions to get a better picture of whats going on...

What surface, tires, tire sauce, reactive caster block and front springs are you running?
CRC carpet at Trackside (grip depends on how green the layout is), purple fronts gray rears, Jack The Gripper, 10 degrees and .20 springs, silver VCS spring with 40 weight oil, .075 T-Bar.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:46 PM   #18285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Ike, how did everything turn out last night? Does that body fit?
I was over 1/2 lap ahead of the field in the main and managed to barely clip a board and catapulted over a board leaving me to do a few turns over again and getting a little flustered. That's what I get for still driving all out with a sizable lead... Dave passed me and I then regained my composure and I was right on him with a lap to go. Just didn't have enough time to get by him and he nipped me at the line by .2.

The body needs some trimming but should be fine.
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