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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-25-2006, 11:07 AM   #18256
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Any servo saver experts today? I usually run the grey Kimbrough servo saver in my cars. but I had one thats offwhite, also form kimbrough I am pretty sure. My T-fource sometimes feels as if it wont recenter after a fast hard corner. I wonder if the white servo saver is a lighter duty than the Grey? Its also has a slight amount of play at center. Its not in the servo. Its almost brand new this servo saver. regardles-its coming out of the car-but I want to know if the color of the plastic is a sign of different strength or quality???
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:10 AM   #18257
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The gray one is made for the Sanwa, Airtronics and Ko Propo servos, the white one is for Futaba ones. It has to do with the pitch of the part of the servo where the servosaver is attached (as you probably already knew), this could explain the play of the servosaver. I hope that helps.
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:13 AM   #18258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Any servo saver experts today? I usually run the grey Kimbrough servo saver in my cars. but I had one thats offwhite, also form kimbrough I am pretty sure. My T-fource sometimes feels as if it wont recenter after a fast hard corner. I wonder if the white servo saver is a lighter duty than the Grey? Its also has a slight amount of play at center. Its not in the servo. Its almost brand new this servo saver. regardles-its coming out of the car-but I want to know if the color of the plastic is a sign of different strength or quality???
The white servo saver (Kim #114) is for Futaba servos, with 25 splines. The light grey one (#113) is for KO, Airtronics and JR (23 splines). The red one (#131) is for Hitec servos (24 splines). You can force the white one on to a KO or other servo, but that might be why it won't center. BTW the #113 used to be dark grey in color.

Last edited by odpurple; 04-25-2006 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:16 AM   #18259
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I'm running the light grey on my KO servo with no centering problems.
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:50 AM   #18260
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Thanks. I am 99.99% sure I have the #113 light grey one. Just a bit of play on a JR 3550 servo (plastic gear). The only other possible thing was I was running 1.64" grey rears!! It might have been going slightly tail out onto the back straight-though that seems unlikely on carpet/stock motor, but maybe!!ON the plastic gear 3550 its very important to not tighten the servo saver down tight onto it or it definately will not center and I am sure mine is just snug on the screw. Maybe thats another possibility-I need to snug the screw just a bit more to eliminate the play.
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:19 PM   #18261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
My T-fource sometimes feels as if it wont recenter after a fast hard corner.
Ray,

You can try two things, first try a new t-bar (preferrably one from a different batch). Don't over tighten the tweak screws on the t-bar because that can cause the car to tweak funny and wander.

The normal Kimbrough saver is actually kinda weak and it can wear out. You might want to try a new one even if the one you have is new. You can also get the "mid size" saver. Get the one that doesn't have holes and drill your own to make it similar to the grey one. The Gate had the mid size savers when I was there.

FB
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:21 PM   #18262
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1.64 rears? What spur? Not 100 I hope.
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:28 PM   #18263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unregistered
Ray,

You can try two things, first try a new t-bar (preferrably one from a different batch). Don't over tighten the tweak screws on the t-bar because that can cause the car to tweak funny and wander.

The normal Kimbrough saver is actually kinda weak and it can wear out. You might want to try a new one even if the one you have is new. You can also get the "mid size" saver. Get the one that doesn't have holes and drill your own to make it similar to the grey one. The Gate had the mid size savers when I was there.

FB
Then that would be the only thing on the wall there-lol

I ran 96 and the spur required a cleaning after every run IN retrospect-I was not able to get through the chicane onto the back stright worth a darn all day-I think the 1.64 were terrible there. I was eyeing a pair of 1.74" tires for the third qual-and then decided it would be different handling to deal with so stuck with the tiny tires!! IN retrospect-I wish I had run the 1.74 or cut them to 1.68 and ran them.
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Old 04-25-2006, 01:38 PM   #18264
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Dont u guys find 12th tires expensive? I mean i run Jaco for sedan and i can get them for 5$ a pair less then the jaco 12th tires. Both are considered exotic compounds yet the smaller tires cost more. I find that in TC you can run a tire from 60mm right down to the rim, but in 12th you have to buzz them down so small to start and they dont last.

What are the hard core 12th racers doing for tires? Special place to get good prices? ITs a topic i may start all its own but dont you all feel that the most consumable part of racing is drastically over priced considering the volume racers go through?

Best price i can find locally is 20$ a pair CND. Our dollar is about 88cents to the US dollar so about 17$US is this typical for you guys? For touring jacos i can get them for 14$CND wich is easier to swallow considering i get more foam and plastic then a 12th gives me.

Am i just a cheap whiner? LOL

I know u got to pay to play but i like to save when i can, i wont even get into what i pay for rubber tires!
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:39 PM   #18265
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Joel,

Its a hard call what to say about foam tire prices. I have gotten to the point where I cut my tires brand new down to whatever size I think my car works best at. I just dont see value in starting them at 1.90" for example and having my car not handle as well as it could till they wear down. Chances are they will be peeling off the rim long before they get to the optimum size. The side loading on the cars now is very high. I am sure a stock 12th is as fast as a mod 12th was years ago. With new battery tech-were driving the piss out of them for 8-minutes now too. GOne are the days of 3/4 throttle in stock for 7 minutes.

For sure if you your budget is as important as ultimate performnace-there are definate ways to squeeze more life out of your tires. Use a harder compound or a more exotic blned that usually have less grip, but longer life. Cut your wheel wells bigger so in crashes your less liely to cut a tire. Drive less aggresively and make sure your set-ups are always good, meaning not tight because tight cars wear out fronts and tear apart rears. Also-and I am NOT one to preach not hitting anything, but drive more conservative lines.Thats about it for me,
Ray
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:48 PM   #18266
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If your cars is setup well tire wear can be really good. On asphalt at my home track I only lose .020" in diameter per run (fronts and rears wear equally on my car). For club races I start at 1.75" front and 1.85" rear and run them until the racing foam on the wraps are paper thin.

For big races I start at 1.70" and 1.80" and the car is dialed when the tires hit 1.68" and 1.78"
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Old 04-25-2006, 02:52 PM   #18267
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:Your other choice is to cut back on your other spending habits not related to r/c.. food, alcohol, uh yeah.. so time to start running those tires fairly tall.
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:24 PM   #18268
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thanks for all the awesome set-up tips y'all! car was very good in practice! (altho i still had the in-line axles on it ). had a great time blasting around the durham track with mike lufaso!! that guy is SUPER FAST and killer nice! hate i missed the oppertunity to race with him. but i still learned a LOT!
hope he makes it back.....i'm lookin to give him a run for his $$$$$

richard M....when will sandhills be ready? can't wait to hit the rug!!!
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:28 PM   #18269
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Joel

Check out http://www.bsr-racing.com/foam/12thscale.html his SRP is 17.00 and this place http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...837d1ff5a038cf
Sells BSR tires for $13 a pair and it is the same quality as a JACO tire. On high bite carpet I run blk front and white rears on low traction I run dbl purple fronts and white rears. Good luck racing.

-Monti-
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Old 04-25-2006, 03:34 PM   #18270
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Joel - sounds like your getting your pom fritz ripped when it comes to 12th tires. they should not be more than TC tires. checkout the following
www.kthobbies.com
www.speedtechrc.com
www.rc4less.com
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