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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-22-2006, 05:04 PM   #18241
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JR 3650 hands down.
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Old 04-22-2006, 05:58 PM   #18242
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Now if I could just get my hands on a couple that'll be great I had problems with the first KO 949 digi that I had but that got sorted out and my Airtronics 94145 is working like clockwork right now.
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Old 04-22-2006, 07:58 PM   #18243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian L
JR 3650 hands down.
I had been using 3650s since I started running for speed merchant. I've had two blow up, and they stopped centering well very early on. I switched back to the 3550 (the analog version) and it has been much more reliable, continues to center positively and feels less edgy.

I've heard some people who have had great experiences with the newer digital servo, and heard some horror stories along the same lines as mine. One thing is for certian, the 3550 is pretty much fool proof.
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Old 04-22-2006, 11:34 PM   #18244
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Can't go wrong with Airtronics 94145. Fast speed and reliable. Two thumbs up!
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:01 AM   #18245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPC Racer
i need a new steering servo, what are some of the better ones for a 1/12th?
Futaba's have been very good for me, I have a couple that are almost 20 years old from when I raced RC cars the first time around when I was a kid, those servos still work like new and I'd still use them today if my new Futaba's were to let me down.
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:29 AM   #18246
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Over the years I have tried many, the older JR (don't recall the number), the Airtronics 94145, the Futaba 9602 and most recently the KO 949. I have to say each and every one of them worked well and the KO is still bolted in to my Rev.4 and working perfectly.

I would say that if you went with a quality unit along the lines of what everyone has mentioned here you will be in good shape. In 12th scale the servo is never something that you should buy used or skimp on, having a car that won't center up can be hell.

Nick
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Old 04-24-2006, 12:15 AM   #18247
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Thanks alot for all the info guys.... I'll be back for more once our track gets up and going... And not to talk up a place but keep the name Sandhills Raceway in your mind.. If it goes like the Oval did It will fastly become a favorite track to race at to alot of people on the east coast. Truely one of the nicest indoor facilities in the country... Says Eric Anderson as well as Many others..


Thanks again,
Richard Medlin
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:35 AM   #18248
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I been using the hitec 81mg with good luck, so have others at my track..

I had asked a few pages pack about servo mouting in the CRC cars weather to go in the mount or the chassis down low. Well i tried both and i sure like it best down on the chassis. On carpet it just seems more predictable. It also feels more securely mounted. The 81MG only has 2 mounting hole tabs so shoo-gooing the the chassis was much more secure then only 2 screws in the crc mount. If im not mistaken the steering is not nearly as twitchy.
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Old 04-24-2006, 12:49 PM   #18249
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Does anyone know off the top of their head what the difference between the older damper springs (asc4341) and the newer (asc4517) ? height? thickness? diameter?
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:10 PM   #18250
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Does anyone know where to get a t-foucre manual?
CRC's website does not have it yet.
Thanks
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:49 PM   #18251
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Dude, its a photo copied mess. I would got to RC10.com and download an 12L4 manual, even though its a different car it would likely help you build your car just as fast! LOL

I cant complain i bought the car and for the price it was great, but man it would have been great to get a manual much nicer step by step build process with bags used in chronological order. And hey how about a page on initial setup? An info page on tire diameter?, unforutunaly pan car racers are left to fend for them selves.... This would all change if XRAY produced a 12th scale
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Last edited by Joel Lagace; 04-24-2006 at 09:51 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 04-24-2006, 10:28 PM   #18252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
=This would all change if XRAY produced a 12th scale
LOL
Think of it,
A glossy full color manual, with an included setup book with everything a newbie needs to know .
Anyways,
I bought a T-Fource and I dont have a manual. I just wanted to find some of the common screw sizes and such. Would the screws be the same as the l4?
(I want to order a buncha of screws from a hardware store)
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Old 04-25-2006, 07:07 AM   #18253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
They all work well and all you need to do is pick a car that looks cool to you and stick with it. Any commonly available car will work great.
I think this is the best advice I've seen EVER on this forum!
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:02 AM   #18254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranamar
LOL
Think of it,
A glossy full color manual, with an included setup book with everything a newbie needs to know .
Anyways,
I bought a T-Fource and I dont have a manual. I just wanted to find some of the common screw sizes and such. Would the screws be the same as the l4?
(I want to order a buncha of screws from a hardware store)
yea just get the l4 namual. They are basiaclly the same car. The same screws will work just about eveyrwhere too. The only difference is the stuff for the skinny plate the damper tubes mount to, and the 2-56 ball studs they use as well. You can get those form CRC, Hyperdrive, or maybe even dubro.

-Korey
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:03 AM   #18255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranamar
I bought a T-Fource and I dont have a manual. I just wanted to find some of the common screw sizes and such. Would the screws be the same as the l4?
(I want to order a buncha of screws from a hardware store)
Download the PDF manual for the Carpet Knife 3.2 on CRC's site. The screws are almost identical because I've bought and used the CK screw set on my t-force.
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