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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-21-2006, 09:12 PM   #18226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
That's the main one to do. The Yok diff is beautiful but small rings and six balls is not good!
I converted mine to damper tubes as well, the car works great.
I am seeing a lot of upgraded parts on your Yok. Can you elaborate about the upgrades on the front end?

Yok rear side pods are already low; but, should I use CRC instead?

I am thinking 19 turn this year.

Thanks.

Bill
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 04-21-2006 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 04-21-2006, 09:51 PM   #18227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
I am seeing a lot of upgraded parts on your Yok. Can you elaborate about the upgrades on the front end?

Yok rear side pods are already low; but, should I use CRC instead?

I am thinking 19 turn this year.

Thanks.

Bill
The front end is IRS, a really nice set of parts. It does get a lot of slop in it, though. I think now that the CRC stuff is better in that regard(aluminum caster blocks, Delrin upper arms, Machined steering blocks).
The Yok motor plates are the lowest available as far as I know. The ride height adjusters fit kind of loose in them though, and make for a sloppy rear end. I planned to replace them with the new IRS four screw plates and make a new top plate but we are working on something else now.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:31 PM   #18228
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thanks odpurple and adrian for the help since i'm very green to 12th. and as TimPotter has stated yes schumacher/adrian are very cool indeed i used to call shuie usa when i first got my mi2 and all i ever received was help and patience. so when does schumacher plan on putting out a 12th scale??? i hope they do someday.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:35 PM   #18229
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one more quick thing- the stock mi2 bumper fits the associated car perfect, all i had to do was trim it down a bit otherwise the holes matched right up with the body posts.
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:49 PM   #18230
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odpurple,

Do you still use the blue front axle (bigger diameter) from stock? If so, how's that?
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:02 PM   #18231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher
odpurple,

Do you still use the blue front axle (bigger diameter) from stock? If so, how's that?
No, I forgot about that. I switched to regular AE steering blocks. The Yok ones had so much slop in them (where the axle fits through the steering block) that I never used them. If you glued the axles in the blocks then they would be usable but with the different bearings and all I don't think there's any reason to use them.

I also put an AE tbar on the car because the Yokomo ones were harder to get (the pivot sockets are different). Later I switched to a Silva spring steel tbar so no more broken tbars!
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:15 PM   #18232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ike
After reading your posts for a while now I've deceided I'm never going to buy a Schumacher product. Thanks for saving me money!

Ike its all cool! Adrian and I are always joking around. If anything you should buy a schumacher for their customer service. I used to run for schumacher and even now running for Corally USA I still call there and chat and exchange set up Ideas, and beat our cars up on the track. Call shumacher act like your just a customer looking for setups, You will get a proffesional answer with respect and integraty. In other words he wont feed you B.S. They also wont sell you something you dont need.


Adrian thanks for the props. But Remember. Yes in general the angle steering is less aggressive. But putting the servo flat to lower center of gravity is more what I was looking for. I tried too corrected the bump steer with shims. I also have a 2 mm spacer under the servo to get some angle by raising the servo some. One Thing I Know when I did this it smoothed my car out and it isnt as aggresive.
Adrian I pretty sure you know I can set up a car. Something I learned a long time ago is somethings feel a certain way to one person and feels different to another. I found my car got smoother, maybe the combination of the angles the tie rods are in , plus shimming corrected the aggresive feel..
Other then that what matters is crossing the line first and spanking the trophy girl!!!


Hey we can't be right all the time. Plus who cares about the angles I still Lapped your ass!!


See you at the state race. Here is a couple pics of my PRC Rugburn car!
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:22 PM   #18233
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odpurple,

I always thought spring steel T-bar only good for oval car... is that good on 1/12 road car? I never tried that out. I have a YRX-12WE too, what do I need if I want to have the same T-bar as yours? Need different pivot sockets?

Also, you trimmed the two mounting holes away on the rear upper plate and relocated to closer the center? What is the reason for that? You prefer the damper tube rather than the stock pressure disk system?


Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
No, I forgot about that. I switched to regular AE steering blocks. The Yok ones had so much slop in them (where the axle fits through the steering block) that I never used them. If you glued the axles in the blocks then they would be usable but with the different bearings and all I don't think there's any reason to use them.

I also put an AE tbar on the car because the Yokomo ones were harder to get (the pivot sockets are different). Later I switched to a Silva spring steel tbar so no more broken tbars!
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:39 PM   #18234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher
odpurple,

I always thought spring steel T-bar only good for oval car... is that good on 1/12 road car? I never tried that.
My team mates and I have been using it for some time. It seems to work just as well as the fiberglass tbar but I doubt that it is exactly the same. It is not indestructable, as some would have you believe. It can get bent or tweaked so you need to check it. Fiberglass tbars (on my cars) usually break before they wear out.

I trimmed the damper tube holes because I needed to move the attachment points closer to the center to accomodate the CRC damper tubes (they are the best!). I was trying to use all the stock Yok parts so I shortened the ball cups on the tubes as short as they would go to make them fit on the stock graphite parts.

Yes I prefer tubes to discs but that is just me.
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Old 04-21-2006, 11:53 PM   #18235
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odpurple,

Now I see that about your setting on damper tube. Nice job indeed. Your car looks very nice. Are you sure that the stock Yokomo front axles have some play/slop? My car is very new and probably that's why I see no problem at this moment but I agree that the Yokomo wheels are tough to get so I think I will switch to normal axles.
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:00 AM   #18236
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odpurple,

Also, do you have problem to have GP4300 or IB4200 cells to fit on the chassis? I found that a lot of trimming is needed to fit the latest cells.
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:09 AM   #18237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher
odpurple,

Now I see that about your setting on damper tube. Nice job indeed. Your car looks very nice. Are you sure that the stock Yokomo front axles have some play/slop? My car is very new and probably that's why I see no problem at this moment but I agree that the Yokomo wheels are tough to get so I think I will switch to normal axles.
Thank you. I saw the slop on the new parts and never used them, you could certainly try them if your parts are different. Yokomo wheels are really good, very straight and strong enough. The od of the wheel bearing is the same for AE or Yok wheels so they are interchangable. I switched to Parma tires because the new wheels are the best pre mounts available, very straight, stiff and I don't have to mount my own tires like I did with the Yoks (no more glue on my fingers)
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:17 AM   #18238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Schumacher
odpurple,

Also, do you have problem to have GP4300 or IB4200 cells to fit on the chassis? I found that a lot of trimming is needed to fit the latest cells.
you are probably right. Our asphalt racing here is seasonal and I think the latest batteries I used last year were 3300's. I know 3800's fit ok, but I don't know for sure about the new stuff. Anyway, that's what the Dremel tool is for!
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:41 PM   #18239
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i need a new steering servo, what are some of the better ones for a 1/12th?
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:47 PM   #18240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPC Racer
i need a new steering servo, what are some of the better ones for a 1/12th?
KO Propo 949
Futaba 9650
Airtronics 94145
JR 3550
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