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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-17-2006, 11:54 AM   #18151
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OUr track is going flat and Im planning on running 1/12th scale.. my question is whats the best car/body/tire set-up? Im new to this however I have been running oval for some 15 years. Any info will help.

Thanks Richard Medlin
email at rmedlin@hobbsupchurch.com
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:06 PM   #18152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRC_DRIVER
OUr track is going flat
Did some one let the air out??

Give us some more info, like indoor, outdoor, carpet, asphalt.
All the cars out right now are good, but some combinations might be better for your application.
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:08 PM   #18153
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Schumacher USA will distribute Riemon products in North America. Since these are higher end products we will be stocking limited quantities. Have you LHS contact us ASAP or at least email me with a list of what you want and I will heavier on those items.
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Old 04-17-2006, 02:20 PM   #18154
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Sorry.I race at Sandhills Raceway and right now it an indoor banked oval..But it will soon be a Flat indoor carpet roadcourse/oval. Slightly bigger than the Snowbirds so all the info you can will give would be great. Gearing,motor selection, etc.

Thanks in advance,
Richard
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Old 04-17-2006, 02:29 PM   #18155
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Adrian,

YGM

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:36 PM   #18156
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If you want to see all Riemon Speed Works items check this link out (got to Altavista.com and use Bablefish to translate the page)

http://www.yamato-kougyou.com/shop/goodslist.cgi
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Old 04-18-2006, 12:40 PM   #18157
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Hi guys,

I have a question... What is the pros and cons of the old skool suspension vs the the new one. I always use the new one and now i just get a Rev4 and want to know which one i should use.

Thanks
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Old 04-18-2006, 01:29 PM   #18158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart42
Hi guys,

I have a question... What is the pros and cons of the old skool suspension vs the the new one. I always use the new one and now i just get a Rev4 and want to know which one i should use.

Thanks
Hi Mart,

While the new style front end is more adjustable most of the Rev.4 crew sticks with the old school mainly for it's simplicity. You will find a lot less wobble and more consistency from side to side and there's no doubt it makes tons of corner speed. With the new front end it's not uncommon to see things either get very loose and require rebuilds or the opposite, I have had many kingpins start to bind making things extremely erratic with the new front end. The old school front end being as simple as it is doesn't get tossed out of alignment easily and when it starts to get loose it's a few bucks to replace almost the entire unit.

Don't think for a second that because it's old and simplistic that it's not extremely capable. Just about every Rev.4 out there is running one including the winning modified car at Cleveland this year!

Nick
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Old 04-18-2006, 01:54 PM   #18159
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Thanks Nick,

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i ear that the old skool is better for smooth track and the new one work better on a bumpy track?

Ok, let's make it simple...

1) What is the difference between old skool and new dynamic suspension?

2) In which situation we have to use the servo flat on the chassis or on the angle servo mount?

Thanks
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Old 04-18-2006, 02:14 PM   #18160
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This is some more info-NOT arguing or hating

Old skool front set-up-though dirt simple, involves a LOT of meticulous work if your remotely analy retentive!! Also-its not real fast to make camber or caster change while retaining ride height as well as a shifting of other adjustments. In other words a change in caster might chnage your ride height and it also most likey will make a chnage in camber.

You are also shimming for camber and caster via a collection of plastic shims and pieces of paper, cardstock, etc.

Again-if your not too detail oriented, then old skool is even easier, but if you take the time to measure axle height, camber, caster then it can be very time consuming.

For sure the Rev.3 and Rev 4 love the old skool front end. The L4's seem to excell with the reactice as does the T-fource and 3.2's.

Heres something cool though. I once built my Rev3 up with a Trinity SB2002 front end with a little bit of reactive dialed in and it was awesome!!
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Old 04-18-2006, 03:06 PM   #18161
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The Trinity Switchblade front suspension was the best. However, even experienced racers dreaded setting it up.

The AE Dynamic front end is the next best thing. Its really easy to setup but you will have to replace upper arms if you crash a lot. Once the upper arms get sloppy on their hinge pins the handling gets really erratic.

The old AE front end....I guess it works OK on carpet where you have lots of traction but it is near useless on asphalt. The molds for the old front end are old and are setup to work with a low fiber content nylon. This makes the old front end flexy and easy to bend in crashes.

If you are a competitive racer the latest L4 front end is the way to go.
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Old 04-18-2006, 03:44 PM   #18162
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I would have to agree 100% with you Ray, if you don't measure things and make sure all is well you will have trouble. Overall that could be said with nearly anything on a 1/12 scale car, that's what makes it so much fun

As for Adrian, the last sentence in your post couldn't be farther from the truth. Sure, the old front end isn't perfect but then again neither are the new ones. As per Ray's post this is why everything needs to be checked and checked again. I have been waiting for someone to make an old school front end (geometry and simplicity wise) that's perfect, perhaps machined even, for years. As for 1/12 scale on asphalt, I think most people would agree that while it's still alive carpet is really where they belong. To say that it works just OK on the rug is a big understatement.

How many Speedmerchant cars were in the A at the carpet nats? What about the 1-2 in Cleveland this year on an amazingly bumpy track? The proof is in the pudding (err racing).

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Old 04-18-2006, 03:54 PM   #18163
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Thanks guys,

So i will put the dynamic front end on my Rev4, i use the dynamic front end since i get involve in 1/12 racing so it's easier for me. Also i race on a med-low bite carpet, so if i understand well your explications, the dynamic work better in low bite situation.


Any comments on the way to mount the servo, flat or angled?
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Old 04-18-2006, 04:06 PM   #18164
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They belong on carpet huh? Someone better tell the 20 guys running 1/12 asphalt at our last sate race that were on the wrong surface...lol!

As for 1-2 at cleveland...they would have been faster with the dynamic front end...lol!
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:09 PM   #18165
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Ouch, Smack! That was good Adrian... I am sure the rest of the field was happy that Dumas and Jake weren't any faster =)

One of these days I will actually run a 1/12 scale on asphalt, this will most likely be immediately followed by large amounts of profane language (my specialty). It's good to see a 1/12 scale class running in your area on whatever surface but it's hard to argue that carpet dominates the country. Someone needs to put in a nice carpet track down there and get you guys out of that evil sun.

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