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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-14-2006, 08:51 PM   #18121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
what is the different on handling between the protoform speed 12 and 12B? which has more steering / downforce...etc? please advice

The speed 12 has more down force then the 12B my car feels more planted when I run it. The 12B is stable but feels more nimble when changing direction. I dont feel that one has more steering over the other just the 12B is faster in stock b/c it has less down force. Both bodies have a place and time to be used. The speed 12 is mainly a mod or lower traction body and the 12B is for stock and high traction type body. The speed 12B feels alot like the Parma Speed 8 but I get the feeling that its more stable at higher speeds or in sweepers. Or you can try both bodies and see for yourself how they feel....they are cheap enough. I hope this helps......
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Old 04-14-2006, 11:08 PM   #18122
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I agree with Kevin K. I have tried Both bodies for mod and stock. The Speed 12 was more suited for mod by making the car feel more planted going into the straightaways out of a turn, which the 12b became to unstable and loose. The Speed 12b in stock seem to make the car alittle more faster and caused less scrubbing of speed in the turns while the 12 made the car alittle more slugish due to the downforce being applied. Mind you I tested on both surfaces asphalt and carpet. Both are good bodies, but each has their purpose on where and when to use them.
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Old 04-15-2006, 01:02 AM   #18123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Hi All

Hope to meet some of you guys at the Worlds in July.

In the UK we are tring to work out what additives will be allowed.
I find nothing mentioned in the rules.

In the UK we have a bann on Paragon type stuff (no wintergeen products or "smelly" additives are allowed). We all use products like CS Grip or Jack The Gripper. We (UK) hope this will be the case at the worlds becuase we have all got used to driving with clear heads (hmm apart from the party goers!)

I would be interested to hear from US racers comming to the worlds. What is your expectation? What have you been told?

This post is about the 2006 Worlds. I am not interested in the general Paragon vs Non-Paragon debate. We have moved on from that and there are other places I see where this can be discussed.

So... what do we know about the additive rules for the 2006 1/12th scale world championships?

Cheers

Mark
I write to the organizing club and answered to me that until June they don't know anything about the rules..
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Old 04-15-2006, 02:47 AM   #18124
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In regards to the "best 12th scale debate" over the last few pages:

If you look at alot of the details on the speedmerchant car, you can see why IMO its the best 12th scale out there. Firstly, of all the link kits, they come with the highest quality link ends. The link ends also act as a sort of pocket for the tweak springs. Secondly, the tweak springs are farther out than on other cars meaning that you can take greater advantage of the progressiveness of the side springs. It also has the narrowest chassis preventing any sort of rubbing. Finally, the old skool front end is IMO vastly superior.

The CRC cars are great too, and its nice to see such great competition between them.

Keep in mind in the results comparison, that speedmerchant has really increased the arsenal of drivers between the birds and the nats. If you look at the nats A-main paces (not qual points but actual best runs) all cars and drivers were really close. Jeff did lay it down in qualifying though with his 40 lap run, but Jeff would be fast in any car, maybe even a roller skate.
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Old 04-15-2006, 06:04 AM   #18125
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Default 1/12th set-up Guides

Hey guys,

I've started running 1/12th and have 2-3 races under my belt. Coming from TC, its was a little adjustment to the car, but I am not able to keep it off the boards for 95% of the run.

What I am looking for is a tuning guide. The diff is unloading in both directions and I need some help stiffning? the rear pod.

I run a CRC carpet knife (3.1). My first thoughts is to put stiffer side springs.

I have Mark Payne's website, and although a great site for setting up the car while putting it together, I still don' have a guide to tell me what adjustement have what effects.

Thanks
Vincent
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Old 04-15-2006, 06:41 AM   #18126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
The speed 12 has more down force then the 12B my car feels more planted when I run it. The 12B is stable but feels more nimble when changing direction. I dont feel that one has more steering over the other just the 12B is faster in stock b/c it has less down force. Both bodies have a place and time to be used. The speed 12 is mainly a mod or lower traction body and the 12B is for stock and high traction type body. The speed 12B feels alot like the Parma Speed 8 but I get the feeling that its more stable at higher speeds or in sweepers. Or you can try both bodies and see for yourself how they feel....they are cheap enough. I hope this helps......

thank you for your advise, very useful piece of info. for me!

so what about the parma "Zytec 04S Body"?

thanks
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:13 AM   #18127
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first thing you have to do is set your tweak, then adjust your diff until you can hold both rear tires until your barely able to turn the spur gear. my 3.2r was near perfect, out of the box, use the stock settings and you should be in the ballpark. if the car still unloads, then try using less tracktion wash on the front. use about 1/2 the tire with. if it sill does it try different springs on the shock.

hope that helps
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:40 AM   #18128
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Vicent,

Also try turning down the steering dual rate on your radio. 12th cars are a bit more responsive than TC. I find I run about 20% - 30% less steering with my 12th vs where I run the TC.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:24 AM   #18129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
thank you for your advise, very useful piece of info. for me!

so what about the parma "Zytec 04S Body"?

thanks
I have tired to run it but I had to mount it so high up on the car that Im sure it wasnt a good test to how it works. The issue with this body is that it doesnt allow for much clearance under the sides of the body so your electronics need to be really low profile to get the body lower. I cant give you any good feed back on how well it works. Again just try one out and see for yourself....thats one of the nice things about 12th scale bodies they are cheap enough to test things like this.
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:16 PM   #18130
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I have a question

i run a crc carpet knife 3.2r

and im gonna put the old school font end conversion

and i was wondering if the new crc pro front end brack will work with the old school front end???
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:32 PM   #18131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjeff6
I have a question

i run a crc carpet knife 3.2r

and im gonna put the old school font end conversion

and i was wondering if the new crc pro front end brack will work with the old school front end???
No, there's no place to attach it on the old suspension arm.
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:33 PM   #18132
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so next question


switch to old school front end and go with no front brace

or leave new school and run front brace?
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Old 04-15-2006, 12:49 PM   #18133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjeff6
so next question


switch to old school front end and go with no front brace

or leave new school and run front brace?
or you can use SpeedMerchant braces for the old front end or I think the PRC front brace will also fit
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Old 04-15-2006, 05:59 PM   #18134
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PRC Brace for the OLD SCHOOL front end works great. I'm still running this front end on my 1/12 and it is always good on the carpet.

My 2cents.
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:59 AM   #18135
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You really don't need the front end braces at all. I don't run them, Strasnick doesn't either along with some of the other team guys. Don't sweat it.
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