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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-07-2006, 12:16 PM   #18046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
I'd like you to call a local skinhead an english sissy, in his face.

Just i would scarper for the exit sharpish though
Smokie-
I was directing that at our local Englishman only, so please don't take offense.

And as I said to him, i wasn't calling him a sissie, just saying that it was possible.

Thanks for the advice, should I ever address one of your local skinheads I will make sure I am well outside the exit first...
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Old 04-07-2006, 01:19 PM   #18047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
thanks Ray

i reakon its mounted properly but maybe its too tight! ill try loosen that middle small nut above the pillow ball
but here are some pics 2nd pic shows how the bottom deck slightly tilts to the right all the time.
Are your motor wires putting tension on the pod? You should not zip tie them together. They need to be able to move intependantly so they don't gang up and impart force on the rear pod.

also, you might want to get some 16g wire. 14G was no big deal with lust 2 wires but with 3 wires and a sensor harness the wire can really mess with the cars tweak.
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:41 PM   #18048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Joel,

go back a page or two and read CHicky's post. I too have tried servo up and servo down and I prefer it down on carpet as seen in my picture on the t-bar car. What I noiticed right away with servo up was more steering mid corner-a lot more. MOre than I'd want to go fast on carpet, but it would be good in low bite or asphalt to have the front end so locked in!!!

Ray

Thanks i read his post. So it would seem to generalize...
HIGH GRIP=low servo position
LOW GRIP= higher servo postion.

I guess my next question is since i use a micro 81mg hitec servo should i lower it on the angled CRC mount? By drilling out holes lower in the mount of just go ahead and servo tape the servo to the chassis and rotate the servo saver 180degrees like you picture? I suppose the CRC mount with screws may over a slightly more sercure mount then servo tape..

I race on high bite carpet, i can traction roll sedan with rubber. So i guess ill try lower on the CRC mount and right on the chassis to see how each feels. But from my readings here i should not bother to run the high level on carpet..
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:44 PM   #18049
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shoe-goo
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Old 04-07-2006, 04:03 PM   #18050
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LOL I use more gooo then tape.

EDIT above post should read SERVO TAPE=SHOOGOO
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Old 04-07-2006, 05:59 PM   #18051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
brain teased

other than what others posters have mentioned already. for the pod to not tilt you would need a "perfect 50/50 weight balance" on your rear pod. left and right of your shock mount and point where you check tweak. 1/12th scale generally have the pod offset to center the main mass (motor) but that does not mean your pod is completely equaled out.

if your intent on getting it perfect you will end up adding lead, matching tires, cutting, etc
thanks for that fast ho cars i understand what you mean now i wont worry to much about the balance then unless its very important and keeps the car handling the same left and right. i think i already know what your answer will be i will source some lead weights

but i've also just found something new i've lossen the top pillow ball nut (not that the movement was tight) and tried to twist the rear pod assembly each way and it is stiffer on one way!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Are your motor wires putting tension on the pod? You should not zip tie them together. They need to be able to move intependantly so they don't gang up and impart force on the rear pod.

also, you might want to get some 16g wire. 14G was no big deal with lust 2 wires but with 3 wires and a sensor harness the wire can really mess with the cars tweak.
thanks adrian yes ill get to the 16 G wire part soon! and shorten the 3 main wires while im at it so theres no need to cable tie things to hold things in place

cheers guys!

oh also one more question i've been using 48 pitch spur and it only allows me 6 diff balls to be fitted where as the 64 pitch allowed 8 diff balls... are there any other guys running 48 pitch spur gears with problems? i ran the car for say 3 packs and the diff started to slip majorly.
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Old 04-08-2006, 02:59 AM   #18052
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I run 48pitch gears without any problems. Use Kimbrough spur gears and you can fit 12 diff balls in there.
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:09 AM   #18053
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thanks pro ten

in saying that i do remember an extra 4 hours below the 6 holes i've shoved the balls in.

and yes i am running that brand kimbrough spur maybe theres 2 types ill have a good look later

cheers guys
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Old 04-08-2006, 11:51 AM   #18054
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I only run 6 carbide diff balls in my 64 pitch kimbrough spur. The associated diff balls I bought only contained 8, so I just alternated holes on the outside, and my diff feels just as good as when i put in 12 balls
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Old 04-08-2006, 12:09 PM   #18055
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Its a nice diff Zared.
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Old 04-08-2006, 12:48 PM   #18056
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Okay, old question along with a new one.

Whats the best pivot balls for the speedmerchant rev.4 suspension links?
(money not a big problem, as long as they aren't gold plated or anything)

whats the best source for red aluminum 4-40 hardware?
(trackside rc sells a kit for the L3 on ebay for $11 but screw sizes aren't listed. This is also for the rev.4)
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Old 04-08-2006, 01:20 PM   #18057
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For the screw kit, I got one from CRC for the Carpet Knife. It had all the screws and nuts in it. I think it was around $15.
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Old 04-08-2006, 02:15 PM   #18058
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Yeah CRC's setup is cool. All the screws and nuts you need all in red. I think the part no is 1410. Horizon hobby should have them, and you can get them CRC direct as well.

-Korey
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Old 04-09-2006, 12:31 AM   #18059
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http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/images/em...media/1256.jpg

the CRC balls any good? They avalible anywhere else without the cone washers?
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Old 04-09-2006, 04:07 AM   #18060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
I run 48pitch gears without any problems. Use Kimbrough spur gears and you can fit 12 diff balls in there.
i rechecked the spur gear and i noticed the outter holes include 12 holes. so im assuming there are bigger diff D rings out there to use with those 12 holes on those spur gears?

finally got my car handling 10 times better! it was due to my mulitple cable ties on my motor wires after taking them off the pod assembly twisted much more freely.

buttttt... everytime i take it onto the track after a short break of changing packs or something the car needs about 1-2 laps before the car's handling is stablised if you know what i mean, as after a break soon as the car his the track its very twitchy and the same tweak problem arises.

i think i should of went for a T-bar car as my first 12th
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