R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-06-2006, 08:23 AM   #18031
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Auburn, Wa
Posts: 2,267
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

We have been using a 1.9-2.1 rollout at our track. 2.1 is a bit stiff but the motor has plenty of torque to pull it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mart42
Hi guys,

Want to try the new CO27 in 1/12, right now i use a ROar stock with a ratio of 1.50, what ratio you think is good with the co27.

Thanks

Martin
__________________
UF1 Seattle - SPEEDWERKES - VBC Racing - Team ORCA
Difuser is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 08:29 AM   #18032
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCCadet
Where can this item be found, I need it. I have not found thin CF.

CRC sells them on their website in there webstore. www.teamcrc.com
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 08:32 AM   #18033
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Just built up my CRC T-fource. IS there any reason not to use the included universal servo mount? I am using a hightec 81mg micro servo.
Joel,

go back a page or two and read CHicky's post. I too have tried servo up and servo down and I prefer it down on carpet as seen in my picture on the t-bar car. What I noiticed right away with servo up was more steering mid corner-a lot more. MOre than I'd want to go fast on carpet, but it would be good in low bite or asphalt to have the front end so locked in!!!

Ray
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 10:40 AM   #18034
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: somewhere in the north of england
Posts: 347
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Connecters are for Sissies/Englishman/People who don't know how to solder.

Will that do?
I'd like you to call a local skinhead an english sissy, in his face.

Just i would scarper for the exit sharpish though
Smoking motor.. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 12:02 PM   #18035
Tech Adept
 
Racingbod85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Bromley, Kent, UK
Posts: 186
Default

hi people. does anyone know what the metal yokomo t-bar pivots are about (featured on worlds L4 edition)? they claim to be tweak free but as the instructions are in japanese on the US website i'm having trouble figuring out what the various sizes are for/do wondered if its worth my while purchasing said shiny bits as i hate my tweak issues
__________________
RC12L4
Novak 4.5R / 10.5R
Sanwa/Futaba/Much More
Carpetwars/Sidcup RCC/Maritime Racing/7oaksmcc
Racingbod85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 12:15 PM   #18036
Tech Elite
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 4,578
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Just i would scarper for the exit sharpish though
What ? *reaches for an english translator*
__________________
Mason McCombs
NewRed Hobbies & Indoor Facility
Off-Road, Dirt Oval, Crawlers & Pullers
Mason is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 12:19 PM   #18037
Tech Elite
 
Mason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocala, Florida
Posts: 4,578
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Ran 12th scale today for the first time at my local track and I cant beleive how much I liked it! I had never run one of these car's prior and I was surprised how easy they are to drive once you learn some throttle control/rythym. When you get it right it's an awesome feeling. i used suntan lotion for traction compound and it actually worked (the regulars had been using it) Thumbs up for 12th scale...
Glad to see you like it. I find it the most fun vs maintenance factor. Albeit we're not racing for titles so the setup can be off a little. Hope to beat, er see you around sometime.
__________________
Mason McCombs
NewRed Hobbies & Indoor Facility
Off-Road, Dirt Oval, Crawlers & Pullers
Mason is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 12:23 PM   #18038
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 784
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racingbod85
hi people. does anyone know what the metal yokomo t-bar pivots are about (featured on worlds L4 edition)? they claim to be tweak free but as the instructions are in japanese on the US website i'm having trouble figuring out what the various sizes are for/do wondered if its worth my while purchasing said shiny bits as i hate my tweak issues

yokomo has a front t-bar nylon replacement piece for the front of the t-bar, once you install it you don't use tweak screws because the gapped area is filled in with plastic, so as long your tires are equal and t-bar hasn't been stressed there is no adjusting tweak needed.

this is from a Yokomo Mar 05 release:

T-Bar Tweak-Free Plate
Installs underneath the t-plate to provide equal left/right balance without using tweak screws.

http://www.yokomousa.com/newproduct...les/npr0305.htm
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 12:26 PM   #18039
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

As long as the Brits dont call you a "plonker" after seeing you drive your good.
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 06:25 PM   #18040
Tech Elite
 
nf_ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Posts: 4,631
Trader Rating: 113 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason
Glad to see you like it. I find it the most fun vs maintenance factor. Albeit we're not racing for titles so the setup can be off a little. Hope to beat, er see you around sometime.
HA-ha! You got it man. Nice avatar, I got a copy of Animal House on VHS...
__________________
Up the Irons \m/

Powered by Hotwings, Rolling Rock, and the urge to race toy cars...
nf_ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2006, 09:13 PM   #18041
Tech Master
 
David Galdo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Euless, TX
Posts: 1,652
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to David Galdo Send a message via AIM to David Galdo Send a message via MSN to David Galdo Send a message via Yahoo to David Galdo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
CRC sells them on their website in there webstore. www.teamcrc.com
Copy you, I will check it out. Thanks.
__________________
Hot Bodies | HPI Racing | HPI TV | Speedzone USA | Team Epic | Trinity | TRC
V-Dezign 4.0
David Galdo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 06:59 AM   #18042
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

hey guys need help please

those of you who have CRC's or Rev 3 and 4's can you please tell me if that football shaped pivot thing in the middle can tweak the car?

i have everything off , the tweak bar with the springs attached off and it seems like its tilting to one side very slight when the car is resting.

how do i get the bottom plate and motor plate perfectly lined up together?
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 08:28 AM   #18043
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Heres a picture of the CRC cars ready for the Grand Finale. Going to run the T-fource in stock and the 3.2r abp in mod. I cannot wait to rip on that mod!!!

As for the pillow ball -it can be too tight, have slop, but unless improperly mounted-I dont see how it could cause a tweak per se. How about a pic?
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-crcgfcompr.jpg  
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 08:55 AM   #18044
Tech Master
 
BrainTeased's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 1,342
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Heres a picture of the CRC cars ready for the Grand Finale. Going to run the T-fource in stock and the 3.2r abp in mod. I cannot wait to rip on that mod!!!

As for the pillow ball -it can be too tight, have slop, but unless improperly mounted-I dont see how it could cause a tweak per se. How about a pic?
thanks Ray

i reakon its mounted properly but maybe its too tight! ill try loosen that middle small nut above the pillow ball
but here are some pics 2nd pic shows how the bottom deck slightly tilts to the right all the time.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-06040800.jpg   1/12 forum-06040801.jpg  
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com.au
BrainTeased is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 11:57 AM   #18045
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 784
Default

brain teased
"i have everything off , the tweak bar with the springs attached off and it seems like its tilting to one side very slight when the car is resting."

other than what others posters have mentioned already. for the pod to not tilt you would need a "perfect 50/50 weight balance" on your rear pod. left and right of your shock mount and point where you check tweak. 1/12th scale generally have the pod offset to center the main mass (motor) but that does not mean your pod is completely equaled out.

if your intent on getting it perfect you will end up adding lead, matching tires, cutting, etc
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Bubonic-X
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:56 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0