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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-05-2006, 09:19 AM   #17986
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For good ackerman angles, mount the servo so that the ears are almost in contact with the back of the front suspension. I mount my servo flat for use on carpet. Also, for ackerman, I mount my ball studs with the balls forward and to the outer-most holes, and will level the turnbuckles by shimming up the studs mounted in the steering blocks. If at all possible I back up the studs with mini 4-40 lock-nuts, or 4-40 flat nuts and superglue where the stud pokes through them. On my servo saver I have made a CF backing plate to help keep the servo saver from distorting and flexing while steering.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:27 AM   #17987
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This is very similar to Timmay's recommendation for ackermann and bump steer for carpet. This is my T-fource and it was fast right out of the box.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:30 AM   #17988
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I usually run more sweep in the steering links, this is almost stright across, but it is angled. Well see longterm if I prefer it to more angled links.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:50 AM   #17989
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I run a similar set-up also but I run on high-bite indoor asphalt...
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Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:23 AM   #17990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
I run a similar set-up also but I run on high-bite indoor asphalt...
Jaybee,

run you saddle pack connectind wire under your center shock and reduce the wire length by almost an inch. Extra wire = extra volt drop.

Stay tuned for the wise asses to mock my corally connectors but remember to be nice to the aged. They can't help it.

Chris
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:36 AM   #17991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Jaybee,

run you saddle pack connectind wire under your center shock and reduce the wire length by almost an inch. Extra wire = extra volt drop.

Stay tuned for the wise asses to mock my corally connectors but remember to be nice to the aged. They can't help it.

Chris
Connecters are for Sissies/Englishman/People who don't know how to solder.

Will that do?
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:03 PM   #17992
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Ray and Jay - You tie rod angles are still a little off. You both will have bump toe in from your current setups.

The if the tie rods are parallel to the chassis that is just barely ok. The ball studs at the servo saver should be just a little lower than at the steering spindles.

If you use the holes on the servo saver closest to the servo saver cylinder (you will have to file flats on the servo saver cylinder where the ball cups interfere with it) and use Trinity long offset pivot balls. Then tie rod angle will be correct. You should have absolutly no bump toe in on a properly setup 1/12th car.

Do a search for pics of Josh Cyruls C-12 and you will see what I am talking about.
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:24 PM   #17993
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why no bump toe-in? I quite like it, but maybe theres some more speed in there to be had!!
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:34 PM   #17994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Ray and Jay - You tie rod angles are still a little off. You both will have bump toe in from your current setups.

The if the tie rods are parallel to the chassis that is just barely ok. The ball studs at the servo saver should be just a little lower than at the steering spindles.

If you use the holes on the servo saver closest to the servo saver cylinder (you will have to file flats on the servo saver cylinder where the ball cups interfere with it) and use Trinity long offset pivot balls. Then tie rod angle will be correct. You should have absolutly no bump toe in on a properly setup 1/12th car.

Do a search for pics of Josh Cyruls C-12 and you will see what I am talking about.
Well I can agree what you say of how to get rid of the bump steer but I don't necessarily agree that you should not have any. Bump steer can be a tuning tool to get a different things out of your car. I know many races were won with cars that had a ton of bump in. It helps the car get into the turn and gives more steering slightly in the middle of the turn. Sometimes bump in is good sometimes it is not. I was also testing servo up and down for quite sometime. For carpet in High traction servo down is for sure better. In low traction carpet servo high is faster. I am not exactly sure why but this is the case. I have never tested on asphalt but I would imagine servo up is better more because even when the fast carpet guys go and run asphalt they move it up to angled. Just my opinion and could be wrong but this is what I have found to work for me. So you might just want to try it like you have it and make some changes and see what it does. There is a possibility that something about your setup or the track you are racing on, one way works better than the other.

Paul



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Old 04-05-2006, 12:41 PM   #17995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
I run a similar set-up also but I run on high-bite indoor asphalt...
JayBee, Keyence ESC can do 4 cells without RX pack?
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:44 PM   #17996
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I'm pretty sure it can.... I've used it in 4 cell, Adrian uses it, and I know Jaybee uses it with success because I drove his car on friday LOL.

-Korey
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:46 PM   #17997
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I have seen pics of cars here with the tie rods so jacked up the car must have 10deg of toe in every time they got off the throttle...lol! I am just trying to help new guys get it right so they have fewer tuning issues.

You are right about tuning with bump toe but there are a lot of other adjustments to use before you need to start tuning bump toe. In a setup article years ago Joel Johnson said that a pan car should never have bump toe in but bump toe out could be good under certian conditions.
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:10 PM   #17998
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Connector question: Id like to upgrade to deans connectors for the batteries on my L3. does the female go on the battery wires and the male on the ESC wires or vice versa?
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:04 PM   #17999
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Female on the batteries and male on the ESC...
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Old 04-05-2006, 02:27 PM   #18000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Jaybee,

run you saddle pack connectind wire under your center shock and reduce the wire length by almost an inch. Extra wire = extra volt drop.

Stay tuned for the wise asses to mock my corally connectors but remember to be nice to the aged. They can't help it.

Chris
Hey buddy tried it and didn't like it. I like the 'convenience' of NOT having to take the center shock off all the time just to get the batts out. And voltage drop, who cares??
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