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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 11-07-2002, 04:49 AM   #1786
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Originally posted by rccarracer
I'll see what I can do, got to talk with him tomorrow....
I think he is getting the GP3300's, but not exactly sure, which do you think is better, the GP or Sanyo?
well the GP's ive seen on the matchers at Hobbyx look good, i have not seen any Sanyo 3300's yet to compare.
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Old 11-07-2002, 04:53 AM   #1787
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Yeah i don't think the Sanyo's will hit Austalian imports for a few weeks yet.....
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Old 11-07-2002, 06:58 AM   #1788
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I got it backwards. Its the right side that i wider then the left, about 2 mm..

Has anybodey here tried diffrent 12 scale cars?
I have had Corally sp12m and the carpet knife.
I liked the carpet knife much better. The Corally is god, if you modified it ALOT, like most of the Corally team drivers in europe do...The corally rims are better tho.

What about the trinity, looks like a very god car that is tunable...

Were is the best place to by Trinity cars and trc tires??

can i use the jaco tires on the switch blade?? Offset ??
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Old 11-07-2002, 07:14 AM   #1789
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ec1: Not sure on the car, but try Rob Murdoc for rims and foams
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Old 11-07-2002, 08:32 AM   #1790
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EC1: I had the Calandra car and switched to the Trinity. I think it is much better and easier to adjust. The front end is much more tunable. Plus, if you have any questions about the car you can always ask Josh Cyrul on TTT and he will give you great advice.
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Old 11-07-2002, 09:21 AM   #1791
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I have run both Sanyo 3300(390 sec, 1.155 V, 3.1 IR) and GP 3300(390 sec, 1.150 V, 3.4 IR) in 12th scale. The packs have average numbers with equal run times, so it was a good comparison. They ran identical lap times at the beginning and end of the runs. I did a total of 8 timed runs on the track. GP's are much more durable then Sanyo's. I would recommend going with GP's.
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Old 11-07-2002, 10:17 AM   #1792
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Ec1- you said you where just using a straight edge from the back to front wheels to measure, right? Instead measure from the center of the chassis to the outer edge of the hub with no wheel on. Mayber you wheels are not the same size. You can find the center of the rear pod by placing a straight edge along the screws holding the shock mount and the center rear pivot.
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Old 11-07-2002, 02:40 PM   #1793
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Originally posted by Mike D
I have run both Sanyo 3300(390 sec, 1.155 V, 3.1 IR) and GP 3300(390 sec, 1.150 V, 3.4 IR) in 12th scale. The packs have average numbers with equal run times, so it was a good comparison. They ran identical lap times at the beginning and end of the runs. I did a total of 8 timed runs on the track. GP's are much more durable then Sanyo's. I would recommend going with GP's.
Thanks for the info.....
Now I have to phone my friend to see what he is/can get for me...
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Old 11-07-2002, 04:16 PM   #1794
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I tried some Reedy 767s in my P2K today, it was sweet I had loads of RPM and dropped a tooth on the pinion to get a little more acceleration but still had impressive speed down the straight (infact it was full throttle around most of the track )
I made the A final and finished 6th, not too bad for my 3rd race. I'm sure that even though my G2 is v old it can still win (I did one of the fastest qualifying laps, the guy who got TQ only beat it by 2/10 of a second!) but I just have to learn not to crash
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Old 11-08-2002, 06:20 AM   #1795
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Louis B: Congrats!! Love the 767 & P2K combo
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Old 11-08-2002, 04:11 PM   #1796
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Nope, won't be making it down your way. I'm turning a double header this weekend for practice though. A friend of mine downstate has his own track that I will be on all weekend. This is the same group of guys that I told you always spank me. I hope to "speed up" this weekend with all the practice so I can show well at Cleveland.

How did you guys get 12 more feet of carpet in there? Is the track deeper now than it was. I remember that you only had about 3-4 feet at each end so it can't be any longer right? If you are only turning 37-38 laps you must have way more corners now than you did when I was there. Hope you have a good turnout this weekend and good luck to everybody!
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Old 11-09-2002, 05:33 PM   #1797
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DARNOLD or anyone who has a Trinity 2002 Switchblade SE.
I read on a ealier post about having to add shims to the rear axle to widen the car to 6 3/4".
My car has the yellow (IRS?) rear axle. After shiming it to the correct width my spur gear is way too far out from the bulkhead.
It appears that my diff hub is too short. Was your car the same? And if so, how did you remedy the problem?
I'm just getting back into 12th scale after 10 years.
Also do you have to pin the diff rings? there are no captured diff rings on the car.
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Old 11-09-2002, 06:19 PM   #1798
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Do you do anything to the brush prior to breaking in?? Slots, drilled, narrowed????Also, what springs? I have a 12L3 with a P2K, 767's and 4499's, red and green springs for both sides. I'll be running on an asphalt indoor track that's small. What foams would you recomend?? Sorry for all the questions, kinda new to 1/12th scale. Thanks

Last edited by GregH; 11-09-2002 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 11-10-2002, 11:24 AM   #1799
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Does anyone ever use Tungsten Carbide diff balls in their 12th car?? All the stock ones seem a little soft.
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Old 11-10-2002, 12:07 PM   #1800
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Hobbytwn Racer ..... you can try startng with purple fronts and pink rears, if you need moore traction run the thinner .063" thick t-bar and you can also gain a bit more traction if you do not run the middle of the 3 screws connecting the t-bar to the rear pod. As far as a center spring I'd start with a blue spring with 50wt oil anf go up or down from there depending on the amount f traction you have. Hope this helps
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