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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-16-2001, 02:01 AM   #166
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Red face

Are there any Trinity Switchblade 12sj people around, or is it mostly AE RC12L3's? Ive got a Switchblade12sj WE, not the new one with 4 slots but the older W.E. with 6.

Im running 6 cells at 2000mah, a P2K Pro, Novak Atom, XXL, and a Airtronics 94145 servo (FAST!!), and the general Purple/Grey compound. PF Nissan P35 Body.

I have yet to race but ive been to the track before to practice on practice days. WOW, 1/12 is loads of fun and surely a handful to drive aspecially with equally crazy sedans that dont handle nearly as good but i dont drive as well, so its quite an interesting sight lol. I'll be around.

Last edited by JB; 10-16-2001 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 10-16-2001, 04:50 AM   #167
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Distaster999,
I had the same problem with my Kyosho 12th car at the weekend. Make sure the rear tyres cannot rub against the body, and notheing underneath the car can rub against the ground. My velcro battery straps were the problem.
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Old 10-16-2001, 06:22 AM   #168
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Default Kawada 1/12 donuts

HI,

I am running the Corally SP12. Just wondering if anybody has tried the Kawada foam tires on the Corally. Are they of the same width ? The kawada tires comes in pack of 3 pair without rims. So i am thinking of re-using my corally rims with those tires, do they fit nicely ??


Thanks

melvin
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:15 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
what are the major differences between the RC12 L2 and L3?

i am looking for a 1/12 car and seems like those are the only 2 choices i have locally and need to wait for the L3 if i order it in the shop.
There where never a RC12L2 it was called RC12LC before the L3.
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:34 PM   #170
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Default Re: Kawada 1/12 donuts

Quote:
Originally posted by melvin
HI,

I am running the Corally SP12. Just wondering if anybody has tried the Kawada foam tires on the Corally. Are they of the same width ? The kawada tires comes in pack of 3 pair without rims. So i am thinking of re-using my corally rims with those tires, do they fit nicely ??


Thanks

melvin
They should be right. Do you have a tire truer to even out the high spots?
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:44 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR4racer
Distaster999,
I had the same problem with my Kyosho 12th car at the weekend. Make sure the rear tyres cannot rub against the body, and notheing underneath the car can rub against the ground. My velcro battery straps were the problem.
so any of you guy have a Pic of the Kyosho 12th?
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:46 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally posted by JB
Are there any Trinity Switchblade 12sj people around, or is it mostly AE RC12L3's? Ive got a Switchblade12sj WE, not the new one with 4 slots but the older W.E. with 6.

Im running 6 cells at 2000mah, a P2K Pro, Novak Atom, XXL, and a Airtronics 94145 servo (FAST!!), and the general Purple/Grey compound. PF Nissan P35 Body.

I have yet to race but ive been to the track before to practice on practice days. WOW, 1/12 is loads of fun and surely a handful to drive aspecially with equally crazy sedans that dont handle nearly as good but i dont drive as well, so its quite an interesting sight lol. I'll be around.
I know someone with that car.

OD will be here soon so if you need any help just ask.
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Old 10-16-2001, 09:59 PM   #173
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Fire-The RC12L3 has adiffrent chassis tha the LC. Is is a few 1/1000ths thinner and has more cut outs for a bit more flex. I think the L3 was the 1st RC12 with the 3 bolt stealth rear axle too. The RC12L3 is the best asphalt car you can buy. Carpet is a diffrent story. CRC and Trinity cars a a bit better on Carpet. The L3 has too much traction on carpet. To win on carpet you have to reduce traction and stiffen the car.

There are a few things you can to to a RC12 to make it competitive on carpet:

1. Run a RC12LC Chassis. It is stiffer and will free the car up for more efficiency and speed.

2. Run the .075 T-Bar and use all 3 screw positions to affix the T-Bar to the motor plate. This will loosen up the rear once again for more efficiency and speed

3. This sounds like a step backwards but you will go faster on carpet if you ditch the reactive front end and install the old fashioned fixed front blocks fron the RC12L w/.022 springs. Make sure you get the springs for the fixed blocks as the reactive springs are too long to fit properly. Put a 1mm spacer under the front blocks.

4. Use a bit of Trinity Purple stuff on the damper plates and king pins.

5. Use the AE green spring on the center shock. Fill the shock with 30wt oil.

6. Use TRC Purple (F) and Grey (R) tires. I have no idea why but Jaco tires seem to gave too much traction on carpet.

7. Use the #4 rear axle cam to get the rear axle as low as possible.

8. Cut your tires so the ride height is 1mm higher than the minimum. After qualifying you should be right on the money.

9. The light weight Protoform P-35 is the only body to run.

10. Practice, Practice, Practice!
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Old 10-16-2001, 11:04 PM   #174
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Default Re: Re: Kawada 1/12 donuts

Taz_S


I do not have a tire truer, can i use sandpaper to sand the edges ?







Quote:
Originally posted by Taz_S


They should be right. Do you have a tire truer to even out the high spots?
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Old 10-16-2001, 11:59 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
Fire-The RC12L3 has adiffrent chassis tha the LC. Is is a few 1/1000ths thinner and has more cut outs for a bit more flex. I think the L3 was the 1st RC12 with the 3 bolt stealth rear axle too. The RC12L3 is the best asphalt car you can buy. Carpet is a diffrent story. CRC and Trinity cars a a bit better on Carpet. The L3 has too much traction on carpet. To win on carpet you have to reduce traction and stiffen the car.

There are a few things you can to to a RC12 to make it competitive on carpet:

1. Run a RC12LC Chassis. It is stiffer and will free the car up for more efficiency and speed.

2. Run the .075 T-Bar and use all 3 screw positions to affix the T-Bar to the motor plate. This will loosen up the rear once again for more efficiency and speed

3. This sounds like a step backwards but you will go faster on carpet if you ditch the reactive front end and install the old fashioned fixed front blocks fron the RC12L w/.022 springs. Make sure you get the springs for the fixed blocks as the reactive springs are too long to fit properly. Put a 1mm spacer under the front blocks.

4. Use a bit of Trinity Purple stuff on the damper plates and king pins.

5. Use the AE green spring on the center shock. Fill the shock with 30wt oil.

6. Use TRC Purple (F) and Grey (R) tires. I have no idea why but Jaco tires seem to gave too much traction on carpet.

7. Use the #4 rear axle cam to get the rear axle as low as possible.

8. Cut your tires so the ride height is 1mm higher than the minimum. After qualifying you should be right on the money.

9. The light weight Protoform P-35 is the only body to run.

10. Practice, Practice, Practice!
thanks man, that's very helpful
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Old 10-17-2001, 07:15 AM   #176
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Anyone have any comments or opinions on the Corally SP12M car? This would be for on road carpet racing (4 cell, 8 minute) probably stock, but modified is not ruled out.

I sold my CRC Carpet Knife earlier this year, but now that winter is here, I think I want to go back to 1/12th scale. I liked the CK a lot, but I think that I'd like to try something different.
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Old 10-17-2001, 08:19 AM   #177
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Geppetto:

The SP12M has a fiberglass chassis and has lots of flex. You can get the graphite conversion for it, but you would be better off getting the SP12G3. Trinity is coming out with a new car and there is the new "Bloody Knife" from CRC.
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Old 10-17-2001, 10:19 AM   #178
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melvin: If you going to mount your our tires that one thing you should get. Even if you do not do your our tires it would help with keeping the tires the same size.
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Old 10-17-2001, 10:24 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ty
Geppetto:

The SP12M has a fiberglass chassis and has lots of flex. You can get the graphite conversion for it, but you would be better off getting the SP12G3. Trinity is coming out with a new car and there is the new "Bloody Knife" from CRC.
How much do they want for the Bloody knige.

I do like the All red but i think the want to much for the car.
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Old 10-17-2001, 11:35 AM   #180
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I think it is overpriced ($225). I called CRC and talked to someone there. Then main differences are that the car comes with race ready compound tires, lowered axle, red anodizing, red transponder. The regular 3.1 is a good deal at $165. There is one on eBay, brand new for $150. I might bid on it. If you guys are interested check it out.
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