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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-02-2006, 07:07 PM   #17971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips

Thanks Doug, MAGNIFICENT job on the Rug Burn!

Hey Dave You did look smooth ...I had a blast today . I know when You get that Rug Burn Dialed I'll have to watch out..
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Old 04-02-2006, 07:17 PM   #17972
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Might be a while before I can give you a run, you were FLYING today...
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Old 04-02-2006, 10:35 PM   #17973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
what is currently the best 1.12th on the market?
CRC cars are loaded with goodies;

Red Durashock
Purple and Grey racing tires
Strongest, great looking lowered red aluminum pod plates
Titanium front axles
Scalloped and lightened great looking red diff hub
Diff lube, tube lube, tools + body clips included
Red Aluminum hardware

The most complete, race ready car kits in 1/12th scale.
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Old 04-03-2006, 12:14 AM   #17974
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Talking

CRC has several 12th scale kits, Carpet Knife, 6-pack, T-fource, Razor.
they don't automatically have all the goodies unless you choose the TEAM EDITION versions.

their T-fource (t-bar car) basic kit, with large ring diff at $149 only lacks the $24 lowered plates, it is one of the best deals going. and should you want to try anyone elses conversion you will have dampner tubes.
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Old 04-03-2006, 01:44 PM   #17975
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Default What body?

Our track is real tight and twisty, what body would you recomend??
Does anyone know this one??

With the steep nose, I'll guess it has lots of steering...?
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Old 04-03-2006, 02:06 PM   #17976
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It's a Hot Bodies Ferrari (or a Corally F-type, which is the same).
It doesn't has a lot of downforce, actually it has very little.
You're better off with Protoform's Speed 12 (B) or Parma's Speed 8 and Zytec.
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:13 PM   #17977
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I need new link pivot balls for my rev.4 (don't ask why). what are the best replacements?
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:21 PM   #17978
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Get a package of Dubro 259 EZ Adjust ball links, the balls in that set are the ones you want.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:54 AM   #17979
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Default dynasty/3.2r setup

I'm new to 12th scale and have a dynasty 19t that i will be using, does anyone have brush, spring and gearing/rollout recommendations for a starting point (80ft back straight w twisty infield)? also anyone know what the stock spur gear count is on a crc 3.2r? any pointers on setup for the 3.2?

thanks
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:20 AM   #17980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowyelan
I'm new to 12th scale and have a dynasty 19t that i will be using, does anyone have brush, spring and gearing/rollout recommendations for a starting point (80ft back straight w twisty infield)? also anyone know what the stock spur gear count is on a crc 3.2r? any pointers on setup for the 3.2?

thanks
Run a Trinity E-brush (4499) with green spring on - and a red on +. Gear it 2.09" roll out. I know it sounds high for a small track but this motor is ballistic when geared up.

On big asphalt tracks I have geared it as high as 2.20" roll out.
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Old 04-04-2006, 03:37 PM   #17981
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#1.Allright . . .I am getting very close to getting my 12L4 all figured out. A couple more things to figure out though. It seems my non-spur side rear tire rubs against the lower rear pod. I can't get it far enough towards the end of the axle that it doesn't rub. I have 8 of the thin shims between the pod bearing and the left rear wheel and none on the spur side. I can add more shims I suppose but it looks like I would need like 20 because even with the 8 there is a bunch of room on the axle before it would move the wheel away from the lower pod. Does this make sense? Do I need to cut the inside of my tire down? Are some tires compatable right out of the box? I have another set of tires to try (jacos) but it doesn't see liek this will help.How does one decide how many shims to run on what side of the axle?

#2. What combination of servo placement and servo saver arrangement would you reccomend for a 1/12 rookie. I have driven sedan for a while and can control it pretty well. Should I run the servo forward or back and then should I run the servo saver with the ballcups facing the front or the rear and should I mount them in the top middle or bottom hole? Or is it a matter of taste and no one will know but me?

#3 Ride height. I have tall tires (44.3 front and 45.9 rear. Both new unknown brand) Where should I aim to get my ride height? 3.0-3.5 mm?
Thanks again people. I haven't been let down yet.
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:01 PM   #17982
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#1.Allright . . .I am getting very close to getting my 12L4 all figured out. A couple more things to figure out though. It seems my non-spur side rear tire rubs against the lower rear pod. I can't get it far enough towards the end of the axle that it doesn't rub. I have 8 of the thin shims between the pod bearing and the left rear wheel and none on the spur side. I can add more shims I suppose but it looks like I would need like 20 because even with the 8 there is a bunch of room on the axle before it would move the wheel away from the lower pod. Does this make sense?

You are running Parma or old TRC wheels with offset. If you run Jaco or new TRC you wont have any problems. The old solution was to file/sand the lower pod plate until it no longer rubs.

Do I need to cut the inside of my tire down?

No.

Are some tires compatable right out of the box?

Jaco and New TRC.

How does one decide how many shims to run on what side of the axle?

You shim you axle so the tires are equidistant from the center of the car. Then you can add shims to change the rear track. This changes the car the car handles.

#2. What combination of servo placement and servo saver arrangement would you reccomend for a 1/12 rookie. I have driven sedan for a while and can control it pretty well. Should I run the servo forward or back and then should I run the servo saver with the ballcups facing the front or the rear and should I mount them in the top middle or bottom hole? Or is it a matter of taste and no one will know but me?

The easiest way to setup you servo is to use the kit angled mounts. This gives you perfect steering geometry out of the box. Some guys run their servos flat on carpet but you have to get long offset ball studs for your spindles or you will have terrible bump to in. Mike Lufaso and Mike McMahon run their servos angled all the time and they aren't slow on carpet so I run my servos angled all the time.

#3 Ride height. I have tall tires (44.3 front and 45.9 rear. Both new unknown brand) Where should I aim to get my ride height? 3.0-3.5 mm?
Thanks again people. I haven't been let down yet.

You tires are the perfect size so that really good. You should be around 3.5-4mm in the front now and you will need to run a 1 or 2 rear axle cam with the hole low to get the same rear ride height. I never run higher than 3.5mm and never lower than 3mm. Use washers under you front suspension blocks to get the ride height lower than 4mm. Xray and Schumacher wheel spring washers are .5mm thick, M4 washers are .75mm thick and the stock AE alloy washers are 1.6mm thick. HPI makes a trick wheel spacer kit that has aluminum washers. That would be the ultimate ride height adjuster kit...if you can find a place that has it...lol!
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:23 PM   #17983
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adrianm is pretty much spot on.

On the front ride height, you may check with Andy. He did the group buy on the fiberlight stuff. and I think tony ordered some and is no longer running so you may be able to just buy his.

we run right around 3mm any lower and you will rub around the right hand sweeper

chop the rear lower pod plate or shim out. most like running as much rear track as they can get.

most of us run the assoc servo mount. I believe that Tim and David run it mounted to the chassis.
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Last edited by theisgroup; 04-05-2006 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:04 PM   #17984
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I should have clarified. I am have the stock associated angled servo mount. There are two sets of holes that allow you to adjust the servo to two different postions. One forward more and one backward more. I was asking which of the two I should use. I have also seen people thread their ball studs so the stud sticks out in front of the servo saver and some thread them oposite with the balls pointing towards the rear of the car positioning them between the servo and the servo saver. Is one way better than the other for a beginner? And then finally there are three holes in the Kinbrough servo saver . . .high, middle, and low. Any suggestions as to how to arange all of this? Thanks again guys. I jsut want to get running smoothly with as little frustration on the track as possible.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:41 PM   #17985
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Set your servo back for now. If you need that extra bit of weight then you could move it forward provided the tie-rods remain inline. As for the ball studs on the s-saver, you could have them either way as long as there's no contact with ball end and servo while at full throw. The s-saver should allow you to set-up with short ball studs and not make contact with the servo. I have tried it both ways and moving weight forward made the car less twitchy and scrubbed more tire.
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