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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-02-2006, 12:55 AM   #17956
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I bought a load of PRS 92 tooth spurs at snowbirds and they seem to work real well. and I can only get a 96/31 on without grinding the tplate but with the 92 I can get a 34 on it easy. but for the most part I only run a 29 or 30 to get the right roll out. was running a 45 at the Roar nats.

1.77" tires
92 spur
29 pinion
45mm rollout

96/31 gets me a 45.5 rollout
but it's nice not to have to pry the motor foward to get it.

I do have a load of 88 spurs but only use them for 19t 12th scale. once ran a 58 rollout on a pavement rack with a 165' straight.
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Old 04-02-2006, 12:56 AM   #17957
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That is a good idea with the Spacers. I have a broken .075 here I think I will do that with when I get some time. Thanks Micheal.
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Old 04-02-2006, 12:59 AM   #17958
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dang I need to learn how to post faster but then michael usually is a lap up on me
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 04-02-2006, 01:00 AM   #17959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
I don't consider myself a "fast guy" but I made the A's at vegas, classic, and the Birds in 12th stock.

I ran an 88, 96, and 92 respectively and I was fast regardless... it really isn't as big of a deal as its made out to be. If I can make the A with an 88 spur then I doubt you'll notice a difference especially at the regional or club level...

I run the PRS 92 tooth spur now so I can swap between stock and 19 w/o changing spurs and w/o having to cut on the t-bar so much.

I used to also think you needed the 3rd screw almost everywhere, but Chicky suggested I try just the 2 screws instead. Made the car much more consistent IMO. I run it with 2 screws in the t-bar everywhere now.
If you feel a t-bar same thickness with and without the center screw you will notice it mainly stiffens front to rear and not side to side. You can always stiffen the center spring if you want to go a little stiffer to compense, but I run the green (olive) center spring with a .072 t-bar almost everywhere and the car handles well...

One thing I like to do is take a .072" t-bar and cut off straight across where the 3 screws mount. I use that piece under my t-bar instead of those plastic washers. It adds a little bit of stiffness to the t-bar but it seems to be more consistant and the t-bar doesn't stress quite as fast...

$.02

Michael Skeen
When you say .072 do you just mean the .075 that's a little thinner from variance or is someone making a .072 now?
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Old 04-02-2006, 01:02 AM   #17960
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it is a 075 he's just tired from running his mouth at the track tonight. but you might want to find the thinnest 075 you can get. which might be as thin as .069 from what I have gotten
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 04-02-2006, 01:14 AM   #17961
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Robert needs an ego check its usually 2 laps or more...

.075" t-bars are hardly ever .075" there is always a variance.
yes I was referring to a .072" t-bar Its been a while but I think that's pretty close to the size of the plastic spacers that come with the kits...
and they aren't always the same either...

Michael
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Old 04-02-2006, 01:18 AM   #17962
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go to sleep skeen it's after 3am

stupid daylight savings time.
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RC50 As you come into this world, something else is also born. You begin your life, and it begins a journey towards you. It moves slowly, but it never stops. Wherever you go, whatever path you take, it will follow never faster, never slower, always coming. You will run, it will walk. You will rest, it will not. One day, you will linger in the same place too long you will sit too still, or sleep too deep. And when, too late, you rise to go, you will notice a second shadow next to yours. Your life will then be over.
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Old 04-02-2006, 01:20 AM   #17963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
I don't consider myself a "fast guy" but I made the A's at vegas, classic, and the Birds in 12th stock.

I ran an 88, 96, and 92 respectively and I was fast regardless... it really isn't as big of a deal as its made out to be. If I can make the A with an 88 spur then I doubt you'll notice a difference especially at the regional or club level...

I run the PRS 92 tooth spur now so I can swap between stock and 19 w/o changing spurs and w/o having to cut on the t-bar so much.

I used to also think you needed the 3rd screw almost everywhere, but Chicky suggested I try just the 2 screws instead. Made the car much more consistent IMO. I run it with 2 screws in the t-bar everywhere now.
If you feel a t-bar same thickness with and without the center screw you will notice it mainly stiffens front to rear and not side to side. You can always stiffen the center spring if you want to go a little stiffer to compense, but I run the green (olive) center spring with a .072 t-bar almost everywhere and the car handles well...

One thing I like to do is take a .072" t-bar and cut off straight across where the 3 screws mount. I use that piece under my t-bar instead of those plastic washers. It adds a little bit of stiffness to the t-bar but it seems to be more consistant and the t-bar doesn't stress quite as fast...

$.02

Michael Skeen

Good enough for me! Lots of good onfo here it seems. Thanks for the help Tempest et al.
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Old 04-02-2006, 04:28 AM   #17964
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what is currently the best 1.12th on the market?
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Old 04-02-2006, 08:07 AM   #17965
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no problem glad to help...

as far as cars go either CRC car is good spring or t-bar.
speedmerchants are also nice.

I know CRC cars come with all the hop ups... no extra hop-ups required to race at any level.

I would assume speedmerchants are the same way but check with some of those guys on here to be sure.

Other than that maybe a BMI 12th...
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Old 04-02-2006, 09:39 AM   #17966
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hello, should i get a 9x1 or 9x2?

will the 9x1 lack of torque?

and what should be the roll out for 9T?

tx
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Old 04-02-2006, 09:55 AM   #17967
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I would go for the double. In general the more strands a armature has, the more efficient the motor will be.
And that is something you can use in these cars, also 12th cars are light so you don't need a lot of torque.
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Old 04-02-2006, 10:15 AM   #17968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
no problem glad to help...

as far as cars go either CRC car is good spring or t-bar.
speedmerchants are also nice.

I know CRC cars come with all the hop ups... no extra hop-ups required to race at any level.

I would assume speedmerchants are the same way but check with some of those guys on here to be sure.

Other than that maybe a BMI 12th...
The Speedmerchant cars are ready to compete out of the box. The kit includes genuine IRS lowered pod plates and a genuine IRS complete d-ring axle assembly. All top notch stuff in there and nothing needs to be swapped out to be fast.

Nick
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Old 04-02-2006, 11:33 AM   #17969
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The CRC cars have that same stuff out of the box...
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Old 04-02-2006, 05:55 PM   #17970
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I had the Rug Burn out today for its maiden race. First I want to say how impressed I am by the quality of Doug's work, the car was a joy to build.

From the first run right out of the bag the car was good, easily the nicest driving car I've had in some time. I was geared wrong for the first rouind of qualifying, but in the second I beat my personal best time on this layout by several seconds.

Unfortunately, I changed tires for the the third round and the mains, and completely forgot to check the ride height... I was way too low in front, somewhere between 1.5 and 2 mm ride height. Made the car push badly as the chassis was bottomoing out just about everywhere.

Next week I should have my head on straight... looking forward to getting out again with this car. What really strikes me about this chassis is how easy it drives while still going fast... it's usually been my experience that a fast car doesn't feel all that nice to drive, and a nice feeling car isn't all that fast... this one goes fast AND drives sweet.

For what it's worth, I'm running the old skool front end, .020 springs, 2 degree caster shim, a silver spring and 45wt oil in the center shock, CRC damper tubes with Losi thin hydra fluid in them. Trinity Monster with a 4499 and red spring on pos, and a 767 and green spring on neg. 40mm rollout. Also ran a Co27 with the same brush and spring combo and 45mm rollout.

Thanks Doug, MAGNIFICENT job on the Rug Burn!
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