R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-01-2006, 12:14 PM   #17941
Tech Addict
 
imjonah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 704
Default Project Car

I am working on a thought experiment/project car.

I have two basic questions.

1. How difficult would it be to run a 1/18th scale brushless on your standard 1/12 scale chassis?

2. Given the reduced speed of the 1/18th motor and with some minor bumper modifications and additional side bumpers;
could I make the car virtually invulnerable to suspension damage. (Full speed hiting a board at any angle).
imjonah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 07:10 PM   #17942
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

hello again, I think I must be missing something. Maybe y'all can help. I realize some pinion/spur combos require some tricky modificatiosn to the t-plate and removing the middle screw and such. My new 12L4 has a 100 t spur and I have removed the middle screw for clearance. I can't fit anything bigger than a 27t pinion on the motor and get proper gear mesh. The only thing I can see left to do is to grind away at the t-plate or remove the spacers between the chassis and the t-plate. Are there anyother options if I want to run a 100t spur? I have been recomended to start my stock motor gearing around 100/31-35 depending on tire size.
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 07:43 PM   #17943
Tech Fanatic
 
RobS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Chatham, Ontario
Posts: 804
Default

Don't remove the spacers between the T-plate and the chassis, they are needed to keep the rear pod level with the main chassis. You can grind away some of the T-plate for extra clearence if you need to. I was able to fit a 32 tooth pinion with all 3 screws in the T-plate with a 100 tooth spur in my RC12L4...
__________________
Rob Say
Action Hobbies Kingsville
"In racing you never really lose. You either win, or learn."
RobS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 08:45 PM   #17944
Tech Elite
 
mike ivy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Comin at ya from a distant galaxy
Posts: 2,784
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

Hey Andrewdoherty,

You can do two things, you can remove the middle screw on the T-plate and grind away at the T-plate you can fit up to a 35t pinion that way. But the only down side is that running only two screws on the t-plate you may break the T-plate easier than if you where run 3 screws.Your second choice is to run a 96 spur you can run a even bigger pinnion that way if needed hope this helps
__________________
[-eXpress motorsports-] [-TQ Wire-]

1/12th Fo' Life!!! R.I.P Mike Reedy, R.I.P John Williams

[-Horsham RC-] [-Jackson RC-] [-RC Car World-] [ Black Out Free 2015 ]
mike ivy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 08:54 PM   #17945
Tech Elite
 
GrandeGixxer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 2,407
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I run a 96. You dont need to run the 100. You can get the same ratios woth the 96 pretty much.
GrandeGixxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 09:23 PM   #17946
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
hello again, I think I must be missing something. Maybe y'all can help. I realize some pinion/spur combos require some tricky modificatiosn to the t-plate and removing the middle screw and such. My new 12L4 has a 100 t spur and I have removed the middle screw for clearance. I can't fit anything bigger than a 27t pinion on the motor and get proper gear mesh. The only thing I can see left to do is to grind away at the t-plate or remove the spacers between the chassis and the t-plate. Are there anyother options if I want to run a 100t spur? I have been recomended to start my stock motor gearing around 100/31-35 depending on tire size.
Before you mount a new t-bar sand a 45 deg angle along the back edge. This will gave you motor clearance.

If you run outdoors the hot setup is 2 screws and a .063" bar. With a beveled rear edge you can fit up to a 96/38.

If you run on carpet bevel the rear edge of your .075" t-bar and mount up your lower pod with 3 screws. Use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to carefully grind away at the alloy center screw nut until it matches the bevel at the rear of the t-bat...its as easy as that. FYI, I do this grinding with the t-car off the car. Just the t-car and lower pod are together. If you try to do this on your car you will have aluminum dust everywhere and thats not good for pivot balls or bearings.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 09:56 PM   #17947
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Before you mount a new t-bar sand a 45 deg angle along the back edge. This will gave you motor clearance.

If you run outdoors the hot setup is 2 screws and a .063" bar. With a beveled rear edge you can fit up to a 96/38.

If you run on carpet bevel the rear edge of your .075" t-bar and mount up your lower pod with 3 screws. Use a dremel tool with a sanding drum to carefully grind away at the alloy center screw nut until it matches the bevel at the rear of the t-bat...its as easy as that. FYI, I do this grinding with the t-car off the car. Just the t-car and lower pod are together. If you try to do this on your car you will have aluminum dust everywhere and thats not good for pivot balls or bearings.
Why go through all that rather than just not run the middle screw on carpet.
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 10:18 PM   #17948
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Because 3 screws is usually faster and its not that much trouble at all.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 10:23 PM   #17949
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: somewhere in the north of england
Posts: 347
Default

or just get an 88 or 69 spur ........ and gear accordinly
Smoking motor.. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 10:41 PM   #17950
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

The bigger the spur the more efficient the gear system becomes. You may see 88T gears on the cars of club racers but the seriously fast guys NEVER run anything smaller than a 96.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 10:52 PM   #17951
Tech Addict
 
James35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Rochester, New York
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by imjonah
1. How difficult would it be to run a 1/18th scale brushless on your standard 1/12 scale chassis?
I've looked extensively into this. I wanted to be able to put 380 size motors in our 1/12th cars for many reasons. It took a while, but I finally found a solution. This adaptor plate works beautifully! Nice anodized aluminum construction, and multiple screw holes (just in case you strip one out, plenty more to choose from).


BK-Electronics from Germany makes the adaptor. The USA distributor is finedesignrc.com. You'll have to call finedesignrc and ask them to get it. (It took them a couple of months to fufill my order. I don't know if they have any on hand right now.) They call it a 'Distance mounting plate for 15er LMT motors'.
James35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 11:04 PM   #17952
Tech Elite
 
andrewdoherty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ★Wylie, TX★
Posts: 3,763
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Thanks a million guys. I just want o take my time and get my car together correctly and not have to learn things the hard way. I am sure I will have more questions after tomorrow.

Andrew
__________________
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
|◤Hobbywing◢|◤SpeedzoneUSA.com◢|◤Pro-One◢|
|◤ReflexRacing.net◢|◤Protoform◢|◤AVID R/C◢|
andrewdoherty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2006, 11:04 PM   #17953
Ike
Tech Master
 
Ike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,131
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Because 3 screws is usually faster and its not that much trouble at all.
I've tried both, and while it does make the car feel a tiny bit different I have seen no difference lap time wise.
Ike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 12:44 AM   #17954
Tech Elite
 
GrandeGixxer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Waldorf, MD
Posts: 2,407
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Andrew, be prepared to learn a lot of things the hard way. These little cars may seem simple, but they really are not that simple at all. Be a little off on something and you will be hating life. They are fun little bastards though, and pretty addicting.
GrandeGixxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2006, 12:48 AM   #17955
Tech Master
 
Tempest2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

I don't consider myself a "fast guy" but I made the A's at vegas, classic, and the Birds in 12th stock.

I ran an 88, 96, and 92 respectively and I was fast regardless... it really isn't as big of a deal as its made out to be. If I can make the A with an 88 spur then I doubt you'll notice a difference especially at the regional or club level...

I run the PRS 92 tooth spur now so I can swap between stock and 19 w/o changing spurs and w/o having to cut on the t-bar so much.

I used to also think you needed the 3rd screw almost everywhere, but Chicky suggested I try just the 2 screws instead. Made the car much more consistent IMO. I run it with 2 screws in the t-bar everywhere now.
If you feel a t-bar same thickness with and without the center screw you will notice it mainly stiffens front to rear and not side to side. You can always stiffen the center spring if you want to go a little stiffer to compensate, but I run the green (olive) center spring with a .072 t-bar almost everywhere and the car handles well...

One thing I like to do is take a .072" t-bar and cut off straight across where the 3 screws mount. I use that piece under my t-bar instead of those plastic washers. It adds a little bit of stiffness to the t-bar but it seems to be more consistant and the t-bar doesn't stress quite as fast...

$.02

Michael Skeen

Last edited by Tempest2000; 04-02-2006 at 08:08 AM.
Tempest2000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:01 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0