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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-30-2006, 08:09 PM   #17926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigb11
Can anybody help me, I have a Trinity Reflex12 oval and it needs to be stiffer, the chassis flexes to much. any one have any ideas.

I'll take a shot at this, but you wont like it. To stiffen the front wont be bad. Make a brace that connects both front a-arms together. Nothing more daunting then some threaded tubing (4-40 most likely) cut to length.

In the back your going to have to get really creative and rig up a dbl deck chassis with standoffs. Usually boxed will lead to the most strength. Good luck with that.

Last but not least-find a guy with a bridgeport or a CAD milling machine and make a thicker or stiffer material replica of your chassis.

Have fun!!

Ray
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:12 PM   #17927
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you can also get some CF rod and glue it in. keeps the cg low.
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Old 03-30-2006, 11:03 PM   #17928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Three
kawada;
Try RC4Less, LefthanderRC, Jake's Performance Hobbies, or MurdockRC.
I believe that Aero1 produces a Dodge Charger and McAllister does a Monte Carlo.
Trillion thx for the advice .. may i know whether it fit for a L4 or required a conversion or even L3 chassis instead ..

Last edited by kawada; 05-08-2006 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 03-31-2006, 03:53 PM   #17929
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I just got my DPM Rug Burn kit in the mail. Its a really clever design and the graphite material looks good.

Here are some pics so you can get a better idea how the flex plate works.
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-p1010343.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010344.jpg   1/12 forum-p1010345.jpg  
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Old 03-31-2006, 04:02 PM   #17930
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Is there going to be a top plate made to use damper tubes instead of the disks? I am refering to the Rug Burn.
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Old 03-31-2006, 04:08 PM   #17931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Is there going to be a top plate made to use damper tubes instead of the disks? I am refering to the Rug Burn.
I think the standard top plate is for damper tubes. I asked for the damper disk unit. I tried tubes but disks are WAY more consistent and are faster in back to back testing. I ran my BMI-12 both ways and was always faster with disks.
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Old 03-31-2006, 04:10 PM   #17932
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yeah dougs graphite is top notch. i'm real impressed with the work he has done for my projects.

reminder to all you black widow guys. i have 3mm conversion cars in stock. you can run the deiter front end and the assoc front end. new tubes, batts run front to back, shortened wheelbase. thicker upper plate, cross bar.
the c 12 rear end will bolt right on this car. the pod offset is the same so it doesn't effect wheelbase at all.

i am also working with doug on makig reflex front end braces(in black). along with a new front end in the works.
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Old 03-31-2006, 04:14 PM   #17933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I think the standard top plate is for damper tubes. I asked for the damper disk unit. I tried tubes but disks are WAY more consistent and are faster in back to back testing. I ran my BMI-12 both ways and was always faster with disks.

interesting, adrian is that on carpet or asphalt?? or both. i don't have alot of experience with a disc. every time i tried one i didn't like it.
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Old 03-31-2006, 04:41 PM   #17934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ntensweapon
yeah dougs graphite is top notch. i'm real impressed with the work he has done for my projects.

reminder to all you black widow guys. i have 3mm conversion cars in stock. you can run the deiter front end and the assoc front end. new tubes, batts run front to back, shortened wheelbase. thicker upper plate, cross bar.
the c 12 rear end will bolt right on this car. the pod offset is the same so it doesn't effect wheelbase at all.

i am also working with doug on makig reflex front end braces(in black). along with a new front end in the works.
Where, how, do we get your Black Widow replacement chassis/kits?
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Old 03-31-2006, 05:12 PM   #17935
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Hey im too lazy to hit the search button.


Few quick questions im just building up a T-Fource for stock carpet racing.

1) Whats the largest starting diameter you recomend for new tires front and rear?

2)Whats the recomended front to rear stagger between the front and rear tire diameters? fronts always smaller? If so by how much? 1,2,3mm?

Thats all for now.

Thanks for any replies
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Old 03-31-2006, 06:12 PM   #17936
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crashby, send me an email. i can piece it up anyway you like.

tomnmel2@msn.com
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Old 03-31-2006, 06:47 PM   #17937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
Hey im too lazy to hit the search button.


Few quick questions im just building up a T-Fource for stock carpet racing.

1) Whats the largest starting diameter you recomend for new tires front and rear?

2)Whats the recomended front to rear stagger between the front and rear tire diameters? fronts always smaller? If so by how much? 1,2,3mm?

Thats all for now.

Thanks for any replies
Joel-you'll be happy to know I just drove my new t-fource and it was stupid good right out of the box. I dont know your level of financial commitment, but I start tires small even for club racing. It hurts to see all that foam go flying away-but oh well.

I dont care one bit aboout tire stagger because the cars 2wd. I know some believe in it-I dont. I also run lowered ods and lowered front arms from IRS. This allows me to run fronts down to 1.60 if need be and rears donw to 1.66", again, if need be.

Anyways-heres club racing starting sizes.

Fronts 1.68" Max, but I like them in the 1.64" range.

Rears 1.81" Max, but I like them in the 1.71-1.74 range.
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Old 03-31-2006, 09:21 PM   #17938
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I like tend to start a little bigger 48mm for the rears and 46mm for the fronts. I don't worry a whole lot about my stagger much after that. I also like the thick t-bar, .20 front springs, and the 10 degree upper a arm mounts.
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:51 AM   #17939
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9x1 or 9x2 ? will the 9x1 lack of torque?
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Old 04-01-2006, 09:25 AM   #17940
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Thanks for the sizes guys

RAY u say u dont worry about front to rear stagger but you do stagger them to start right? Your sizes you posted indicate that you do, at least to start. I'm guess from there on you dont try to maintian any stager correct?

Thanks again.

After running touring cars for so long its going to be a fun challenge
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Last edited by Joel Lagace; 04-01-2006 at 09:28 AM. Reason: more
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