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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-27-2006, 06:46 PM   #17896
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Is it from SoCal? If so then I already know the sizing. Can't fit those ones in any cabinets around the house......Got mine down in Costco in Palm Springs
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Old 03-27-2006, 10:56 PM   #17897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Difuser
Is it from SoCal? If so then I already know the sizing. Can't fit those ones in any cabinets around the house......Got mine down in Costco in Palm Springs
My wife just informed me it's Kettle One (Sp?)
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:28 PM   #17898
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should be Ketel but still goooood stuff.

Back to 1/12 now See you Friday for some more door to door. Just follow me I'll show you the good line
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Old 03-28-2006, 12:30 AM   #17899
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Hello. I am a 1/12 beginner. Just got a newly assembled 12L4. Where should I go with my baisc questions? I checked the newbie threads and searched for 1/12 but didn't get any hits. Just thought I would ask before making some of you think to yourselves "UHHHhggg . . .how many times are going to have to answer this question!!!" Keep an eye out for me . . .I will be asking some very rudimentary questions about simply getting the car track ready correctly. Thanks !
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:25 AM   #17900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawada
Dear Pal

Just get a Hara Hummer 12 conversion kit & planning to convert my L4 to it .. any setup tips for street tracks ??
kawada: there's a thread about Hara 12 you could check it there. here's the link
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:27 AM   #17901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Hello. I am a 1/12 beginner. Just got a newly assembled 12L4. Where should I go with my baisc questions? I checked the newbie threads and searched for 1/12 but didn't get any hits. Just thought I would ask before making some of you think to yourselves "UHHHhggg . . .how many times are going to have to answer this question!!!" Keep an eye out for me . . .I will be asking some very rudimentary questions about simply getting the car track ready correctly. Thanks !
Hey Andrew,

One thing you will learn about most 1/12 scale racers is that they love to help whenever they can. Feel free to ask your questions here and you will get some answers.

Nick
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:44 AM   #17902
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I have what I was told is a bone stock car. I am obviously starting out with a stock motor ( I am currently running tock and 19t in my rdx). I have a 64 p 100t spur and cant seem to get anything bigger than a 26t pinion on the motor due to not being able to move the motor any more forward. The local fast racer told me I should be running about a 30-32 t pinion for our track and that I would need to cut into the t-bar to get proper gear mesh. It does not appear that the small amo0unt of cutting I could do (the motor is actually hitting the nuts holding the t-bar ontot the rear pod) would make enough of a difference to get much more than a 28 t pinion on the motor. It seems that a better alternative would be to use a smaller spur and then recalculate my fdr to = 100/31 or so. How does this work? Should I secure the battery trays to the chassis in any manner? Any time I do anything with the batteries not in the car they seem to just fall out. I was thinking a bit of shoe goo in a couple spots would keep them in place and still be removeable when needed. Also how do you measure the front toe for a pan car? I am accustomed to using set up blocks for my sedan. Do you twelvies sauce the inside half of the front tires like us sedan guys? What ride height should I shoot for? I will stop asking for now. I need sleep and someone is about to reply usi9ng this emoticon
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Old 03-28-2006, 06:33 AM   #17903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I have what I was told is a bone stock car. I am obviously starting out with a stock motor ( I am currently running tock and 19t in my rdx). I have a 64 p 100t spur and cant seem to get anything bigger than a 26t pinion on the motor due to not being able to move the motor any more forward. The local fast racer told me I should be running about a 30-32 t pinion for our track and that I would need to cut into the t-bar to get proper gear mesh. It does not appear that the small amo0unt of cutting I could do (the motor is actually hitting the nuts holding the t-bar ontot the rear pod) would make enough of a difference to get much more than a 28 t pinion on the motor. It seems that a better alternative would be to use a smaller spur and then recalculate my fdr to = 100/31 or so. How does this work? Should I secure the battery trays to the chassis in any manner? Any time I do anything with the batteries not in the car they seem to just fall out. I was thinking a bit of shoe goo in a couple spots would keep them in place and still be removeable when needed. Also how do you measure the front toe for a pan car? I am accustomed to using set up blocks for my sedan. Do you twelvies sauce the inside half of the front tires like us sedan guys? What ride height should I shoot for? I will stop asking for now. I need sleep and someone is about to reply usi9ng this emoticon
I had the same problem, I couldn't get the right gearing for the track I was running, so I switched to a smaller spur gear and I was able to get the rollout I wanted. You could file down the T-Bar and nut, it does make a difference, but switching to a smaller spur gear would be an easier fix. As for you battery trey you could shoe goo it to the chassis or take a piece of battery strapping tape and wrap it around the center bar of the hold down. I measure my toe in just by eye balling it, not the most accurate way of doing it but thats just me. When sausing your tires I usually sause a third to half fronts and full rears depinding on traction. Hope this helps!
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Old 03-28-2006, 06:48 AM   #17904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I have what I was told is a bone stock car. I am obviously starting out with a stock motor ( I am currently running tock and 19t in my rdx). I have a 64 p 100t spur and cant seem to get anything bigger than a 26t pinion on the motor due to not being able to move the motor any more forward. The local fast racer told me I should be running about a 30-32 t pinion for our track and that I would need to cut into the t-bar to get proper gear mesh. It does not appear that the small amo0unt of cutting I could do (the motor is actually hitting the nuts holding the t-bar ontot the rear pod) would make enough of a difference to get much more than a 28 t pinion on the motor. It seems that a better alternative would be to use a smaller spur and then recalculate my fdr to = 100/31 or so. How does this work? Should I secure the battery trays to the chassis in any manner? Any time I do anything with the batteries not in the car they seem to just fall out. I was thinking a bit of shoe goo in a couple spots would keep them in place and still be removeable when needed. Also how do you measure the front toe for a pan car? I am accustomed to using set up blocks for my sedan. Do you twelvies sauce the inside half of the front tires like us sedan guys? What ride height should I shoot for? I will stop asking for now. I need sleep and someone is about to reply usi9ng this emoticon
hey man,

run a 96 spur.
you can chop down the nut and the screw and the tbar. should be ab le to squeeze a 35 into the car.
the fdr of a 1/12 is 1:1 it is direct drive. so we use roll out. tire size is how we control speed.
this weekend J and I ran 31 with 46mm tire and tim ran 34 with 44mm I think
to set toe, Tim tells me to put pressure on the back of the wheel before we check it. just use one of those hudy sheet that most have on the pit board. and set about .5 to 1 degree toe in.
on Mike's track we do not change the battery location much in an L4, just shoe goo the things pointing toward the rear. you can always pull them off if you need to move them up for mod.
you may want to run a 100 spur if you want more top end, but then we usually run 2 screws to get the motor far enough forward.
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Old 03-28-2006, 07:18 AM   #17905
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Quote:
Also how do you measure the front toe for a pan car?
Niftech makes a NEAT alignment tool that helps you accurately (and repeatably) set toe-in and camber. It also makes an easy-squeezy tool for centering the rear axle, etc. It takes a bit of fiddling the first couple times you use it but once you've got it figured it's a breeze to use. All for a whopping $25 and from some GREAT folks. Been using mine about a year now.

Niftech Ultra-Precision Alignment Tool

The pic below shows the tool as-used on the front of the car and shows how it is used to center the rear axle. Note that one and a half tools are shown--you "only" get two bars and one rod.

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 06-27-2008 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:11 AM   #17906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
you can chop down the nut and the screw and the tbar. should be ab le to squeeze a 35 into the car.
Mike McMahon showed me a good idea for a t-bar mounting a few years ago that I have been using ever since...

Use 3mm metric screws and locknuts instead of 4-40 screws on the 2 outer holes of the t-bar to mount the t-bar to the rear pod plate. The 3mm screws are slightly larger than 4-40, and they will thread into the fiberglass t-bar. If you are using a the center screw in the t-bar (as I normally do for extra strength and more steering), use a short 3mm screw and do not use a nut on top of the t-bar. Just thread the screw into the fiberglass t-bar until it is snug. If you can not find a short enough 3mm screw, cut the top of the screw flush with the top of the t-bar with a Dremel tool.

Using the oversized screws helps ensure the pod plate and the t-bar always stay aligned properly, and not having a nut on the center screw allows you to move the motor forward as far as possible.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:23 AM   #17907
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I'm looking for a starting point for roll out with a 10x2. I have been running my 19T around 6.100 but I know that is way to high for a mod motor. If some one could point me in the direction of a site with suggested roll outs or give the roll out they run that would awesome.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:33 AM   #17908
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Start with 40mm/rev(1.57") with 10T, every turn goes up or down by 2mm/rev, eg, 9T with 38mm/rev.
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Old 03-28-2006, 08:41 AM   #17909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sokool
I have been running my 19T around 6.100 but I know that is way to high for a mod motor.
First you'd better fill us in on how you've come up with 6:1. You must be hitting peak revs somewhere near the apex of the tightest turn on the track and then getting passed like you're tied to a stake on the straights while your motor tries to throw a wind. BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

OR...if you've got 1/10 pan car tires on the rear your gearing is probably spot on.

Somewhere around 4:1 or a little lower (numerically) should be in the ballpark for your 19-turn but it 100% depends on your tire diameter. That's why things like this are quoted as ROLL-OUT, because the gear ratio IS dependant on tire diameter. They can't be separated from each other.

I'm running somewhere in the 38-40mm roll-out range with my Velociti 6.5 which is supposed to be similar to a 9-10 turn motor.

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Last edited by Scottrik; 03-28-2006 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 03-28-2006, 01:20 PM   #17910
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When I said rollout I meant gear ration times tire circumfence. I Come out to about 6.1 inches per revolution with my 19T.

Thanks Caveman! That will save me alot of trial and error I would have never thought of going that low...
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