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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-25-2006, 07:01 PM   #17881
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and then they collapsed.

whats up ray,how ya been buddy.
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:06 PM   #17882
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Good Jason-really good. How about you? Mod 12th tomorrow against Chicky and Buran. Let me knw if you hear me hit a board all the way down in FLA!! Should sound like a gunshot. lol I havent run a link car with a mod motor since 2003 I bet.

btw-I have been reminescing and I still think the best TC I have ever owned is the bmi 350!!!! Man do I miss that car!! lol

Back on topic, I Always run two screws in the thick t-plate on the L4's and I always run battery back regardless of grip. I have found any increases in steering are outweighed by lack of traction, balance and consistency.

So Jason, since I always run 2-screws in the t-plate-does that make me one of the really fast guys you referred to? Dont answer!!
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Old 03-25-2006, 07:18 PM   #17883
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i will be waiting for the gunshots.just wait until my race is over.call me before your heat so i can run for cover. j/k.im sure you will do great.yeah,you are one of the 2 screwers.actually,alot of guys down here run 2 screws on asphalt including myself.i actually started running my batts all the way back now also.the only time i move them forward is when the traction sucks and the car double steers.it seems to smoothe the car out in the corners and stops double steer.as soon as the traction is good,the batts go back again.it is nice to have that adjustment because the track conditions down here change constantly.
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Old 03-25-2006, 10:17 PM   #17884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
What about the front springs? Can I screw around with those in addition to the center spring for steering? Or is it better to keep the fronts to .020's and mess with center spring & tire sauce? Grip isn't that big of an issue at the indoor asphalt track I run on but with every layout steering can become a fight in a few corners
Okay here's another question-
How much front-end droop (uptravel) does the car suppose to have if ANY? Just going through the frt. & rear ends of my T-fource and the lower arms slides up on the kingpins away from the springs about 2.5mm. Is shimming needed sandwiching the steering blocks so there's no uptravel? And in doing so I know to be careful not to place any preload on the front springs correct?
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Old 03-26-2006, 03:58 AM   #17885
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hey guys im having abit of trouble

which ones are the tweak screws? to make the bottom plate and motor plate level.

i have awesome handling turning right but left is very sensitive and spins out on throttle veryyyyyyyyy easily.
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Old 03-26-2006, 09:15 AM   #17886
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what cap. or reciver battery should o get? if i get the Li-Po Rx battery, should i get VXR 120/240 or MM 200/250? how many races (ruoghly) can they last (120/200/240/250)?

Do i have to use the regulator? 1A or 5A?

Is the 5A ONLY for spektrum and PCM? what about KO?

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:29 PM   #17887
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JB, I try to run about .5mm
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Old 03-26-2006, 08:41 PM   #17888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Difuser
JB, I try to run about .5mm

Hey Dan!! If you run 0.5mm of front droop as Dan recommends-you also have the advantage of not introducing what might feel like a tweak in the car that doesnt appear while tweaking car on your set-up board!! But-if you put in too much droop in the frnt, car can vibrate horribly on a mildy bumpy or ripply track. Also-a little tiny bit of pre-loads not bad-but its a driver preference thing for sure!! try 0.5mm droop-then add a thin copper motor shim to ake it all ut and see what you prefer. 99% of the time on a t-plate car I run a smidge of preload (stock, carpet/foam).

I also learned something that might help you guys running 3.2's in modifiied. I was having issues of edginess and tippiness today and for the Main I dialed it out with a half turn of preload on my zero preloaded side springs and putting the CRC blue lube in the tubes (Thats the heaviest). Calmed the car down dramatically and I could drve it a lot harder after that and car was smoother as well. I learned those tricks from Hodge and Frank just last week-so it was cool to put them to action right away.

Ray
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Old 03-26-2006, 11:50 PM   #17889
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Dan... did your email break? I'm trying to hook you up!

bb
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Old 03-27-2006, 06:02 AM   #17890
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Dear Pal

Just get a Hara Hummer 12 conversion kit & planning to convert my L4 to it .. any setup tips for street tracks ??
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:37 AM   #17891
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Brian too many Martini's in Minneapolis I think my next livery will be a Grey Goose sponsored car...........YGM back

JB if you have that much droop that might explain some of the vague steering in your car, especially on power. Like Ray commented I am running .5max I try to keep it with just a hint of freeplay but it borders on pre-load at times.
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Old 03-27-2006, 02:36 PM   #17892
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hi all, what is the roll out for 8T/9T,10T/11T/19T when play in a small - midium technical track when using 50mm tires?

and how to calculate when using the number of "turns" of the motor in the formula?
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:32 PM   #17893
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Brian, good run at the Nats.
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Old 03-27-2006, 03:38 PM   #17894
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Hey Ray Huang ygpm another question for ya
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Old 03-27-2006, 06:02 PM   #17895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Difuser
Brian too many Martini's in Minneapolis I think my next livery will be a Grey Goose sponsored car...........YGM back

JB if you have that much droop that might explain some of the vague steering in your car, especially on power. Like Ray commented I am running .5max I try to keep it with just a hint of freeplay but it borders on pre-load at times.
It's all done up good now...I won't be down Friday night early enough for practice but maybe I'll make it down in time for some racing. Speaking of Grey Goose, you should see the SIZE of the bottle I'm getting
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