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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-25-2006, 09:36 AM   #17866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
They perform very well, but the T-fource is a t-plate car and the 3.2R is a link car. They take different tuning to make them work, different rate springs and dampening too, though some things remain the same like front springs. The t-fource can be tweaked with either tweak screws or springs, whhc makes it somewhat unique in terms of t-plate cars.

Last Sunday at the Gate two of our best drivers raced, one with a T-fource and one with a 3.2r and they both set equal fastest laps of 9.2.
thanks for that! Why i was asking that bcos i have a L4 and i just bought the 3.2. luckly that i didnt get the T-force, otherwise willbe two T-plate car

got any set-up for concrete / asphalt for the 3.2?

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2006, 10:56 AM   #17867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanisK
Its olive green spring + 30wt oil.
For damper i use trinity red grase
Keep increasing the stiffness of your center spring until you get the desired steering. I think the next spring up in stiffness from an olive is a silver spring. You might also try putting the third screw in the middle of the T bar where it bolts to the lower motor pod plate or even go up to a .078 T bar.
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Old 03-25-2006, 11:31 AM   #17868
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Hmm Ok, thanks for a tip Crashby, will try it when i get to race in that track again.

How you are dealing with increasing traction during a races so the car is not scrubing speed too much at the and of the day and/or oversteering.

I have noticed that during 12th races, traction is improving really fast, and it can start to cause a problems
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Old 03-25-2006, 11:54 AM   #17869
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hi all ... is this a 3.1 chassis converts into a 3.2 "look a like"?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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Old 03-25-2006, 01:26 PM   #17870
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It looks like it could be either a 3.1 "Bloody" or a 3.2. I'm not 100% on the difference between those two but the chassis shown has the "big foot" battery strap uprights. Can't see much other detail and guessing it would be "academic" anyway between these two.

It's definitely NOT a 3.2R which has the thicker chassis. This can be confirmed in the pic of the bottom which doesn't have the taper at the rear sides of the main chassis and the front doesn't have the pre-drilled mounting patern for the transponder (look for a screw hole dead-center at the front to confirm a 3.2R).

Scottrik
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Old 03-25-2006, 01:27 PM   #17871
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Default pod springs

Hi all.
has any one tried mounting side springs as to the dampning tubes to the carpet knife..like a 1/10 pan car.
i Have to use a heavy oil, kyosho 30000 diff oil.....(tried to lighten all round, didnt work!, the high speed front straight turn-in and an infield high speed "s" is a car killer..over steering here..ITS A N, NO!..its a bit tricky as the track is only 3 meters wide and solid walls!)
im wanting some re-bound to return the chassis level on exiting a turn quicker. simaler to the way a touring car shocker should work..to push it the arm onto the ground..
our track is very, very sticky..(itll pull the soles off your shoes,, ).
i need a heavily dampened car...the l4's run a crc ss spring, .24 front springs and custom made carbon t-bars 3 screws on the t bar...the t-force that runs here is very simmaler..we use..30-35 rears and 40-50 front tyres. LOW!
the Haras cant get rigid enough,,they keep traction rolling,,even at 2.5 mm ride height, with the twaek screws very tight....
Another question,,,can i put more tension on the pod springs to make it the rear pod more rigid.
the crc instructions says to tighten the tweak screws so as to just touch the balls..then tweak accordinally..it also says to gain more in corner steering, to increase the weight of the spring..im using purple..
any ideas?
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Old 03-25-2006, 01:29 PM   #17872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanisK
Hmm Ok, thanks for a tip Crashby, will try it when i get to race in that track again.

How you are dealing with increasing traction during a races so the car is not scrubing speed too much at the and of the day and/or oversteering.

I have noticed that during 12th races, traction is improving really fast, and it can start to cause a problems
It's important to throughly clean your tires after every run. As the bite comes up, we have found that softening the car's suspension more as the day goes on keeps the corner speed up. You may also have to turn your steering down as well to keep from scrubbing off too much speed in the corners. Your car is already pretty soft from the discription you posted.

One of the things that came up at the carpet nationals was to adjust your steering with your end points and not your dual rate. Turn you dual rate up all the way and then adjust your left and right end points to where the car works best. We also found out that the car works best with the front tires turned down to about 43mm and the rears down to about 44 mm.
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Old 03-25-2006, 02:35 PM   #17873
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Ray Huang ygpm question for ya
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Old 03-25-2006, 03:28 PM   #17874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanisK
Was driving my L4 for the firs time today, thats my first 1/12 car. Everything was quite ok, except i had noticable push at the end of stright. Car was unersteering a lot in mid corner and on corner exit.
How should i deal with this problem?

I have:
Gray reear(100% traction compound), purple front( 90% traction compound)
0.63 t-bar
0.18 springs in front
0.25mm shim under the front of t-bar
10 degree caster block
Jack the Gripper traction sauce
0.5 toe out
1 degree camber
In general, carpet has quite low traction

i would remove the .25mm shim from under the front T plate pivot ball.this i believe is the same as anti squat and anti squat makes the car have more initial steering on entry and plants the rear mid corner and exit.this could be the push that you are experiencing.i would also go to a .075 T plate and .020 front springs.the .018 springs seem to collapse too easily.
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Old 03-25-2006, 03:51 PM   #17875
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thanks protc3, its worth to try it.
What difference do harder springs make? Isnt that harder springs makes car more responsive for corner entry, but less traction in general for a front?
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Old 03-25-2006, 03:57 PM   #17876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
hi all ... is this a 3.1 chassis converts into a 3.2 "look a like"?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
It's a 3.1, the 3.2 uses a lower rear cross/tweakbrace and the springs contact the lower pod plate directly rather than resting on the balls mounted on that car. I believe they offer a 3.1 to 3.2 conversion.
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Old 03-25-2006, 04:03 PM   #17877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Keep increasing the stiffness of your center spring until you get the desired steering. I think the next spring up in stiffness from an olive is a silver spring. You might also try putting the third screw in the middle of the T bar where it bolts to the lower motor pod plate or even go up to a .078 T bar.
What about the front springs? Can I screw around with those in addition to the center spring for steering? Or is it better to keep the fronts to .020's and mess with center spring & tire sauce? Grip isn't that big of an issue at the indoor asphalt track I run on but with every layout steering can become a fight in a few corners
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Old 03-25-2006, 04:56 PM   #17878
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Default 12L4 SETUP

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Keep increasing the stiffness of your center spring until you get the desired steering. I think the next spring up in stiffness from an olive is a silver spring. You might also try putting the third screw in the middle of the T bar where it bolts to the lower motor pod plate or even go up to a .078 T bar.
couldn't have said it better myself, someone else out there that has simple yet very effective ways to make a pancar go fast, definatly try the 3rd srew in the tplate, because you will brake a tplate without one, next step it up to a silver, and if you need more steering on entry go up to a blue center spring, the only thing i would not suggest is running the .075 t plate unless your track is perfectly smooth the low ride height makes the car very stiff and darty with the stiff t plate. Also did u say u had pink rears??? i may be mistaken if you didn't if not go to grey rears!!!!, another option is to go to .018 springs up front u probably have .020 in the front, the 18 will help the car through corner entry to the apex of the corner on rotating freely. hope that helps. Anothr option on the 12l4 is if he battery trays are in the furthest position to the rear flip them around it moves the battery 1/4 inch farter forward in the car, takes some rear % out of the car hence more entry rotation!!!! hope these ideas point you in the right direction. see ya jeff!!!
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:55 PM   #17879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanisK
thanks protc3, its worth to try it.
What difference do harder springs make? Isnt that harder springs makes car more responsive for corner entry, but less traction in general for a front?

the stiffer front springs do not allow the front to dive as easily.it smoothes the car out on corner entry.the only time i used .018 springs was on a medium to low bite asphalt track with some small bumps.a thin .063 t plate and .018 srings absorbed the bumps and kept the tires in contact with the ground on the lightly bumpy chicanes.i never really run lighter than .020 springs other than that.the biggest reason is because the .018 springs collapse after about 2 heats.even the pros that i have spoken to say the same thing.on low bite tracks i run 2 screws in the t plate on the pod and high bite i run 3 screws.i know a few real fast guys who always run 2 screws.i guess it all comes down to how it feels to you.try it both ways and see what you like better.
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:58 PM   #17880
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To go along with Jason-0.018" only work once in awhile and on a specific amount of traction or layout. I can only remember one layout where 0.018 were fast on a L4 in the last 3 years.
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