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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-24-2006, 05:04 PM   #17851
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Default Early 3.2 Prototype info!!

I spoke with Frank today about setting up my t-fource and my 3.2r abp and I got some cool insights on the early prototype that Mcmahon won the National Championshp and also 2nd an 3rd.

Frank said the Knife pictured from the Nationals is a early prototype. The car is more narrow, stiffer and lighter than previous cars. Then unlike other link cars on the market, the car uses either tape or an o-ring to hold the cells. The combination of the two-piece tweak plates and the newly designed graphite O-ring hooks make for a new O-rings battery retention system that is at an all time high for pack secure ness and positive mounting. The new system cradles the cells, keeping them in place. The new O-ring hooks eliminate any chance of the O-ring coming off. It's dialed, throw away the tape.

I hate tape. Anyways-I hope this doesnt land in the "already know that" category. Also-the tweak system as you all noticed is revised and a large part of that was to stiffen up the tweak system and allow for that trick battery retention system.
Ask away if you have mre questions n it-except when it will be available.

Ray
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Old 03-24-2006, 05:13 PM   #17852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manning
The shock on these cars is run very close to max extension at all times. Or "topped out". This is the key point......
Thanks Manning, that makes sense. That was the piece of information I was missing.
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:15 PM   #17853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manning
The shock on these cars is run very close to max extension at all times. Or "topped out". This is the key point......
That's the other thing... the normal travel of a pan car shock is 1-2mm at the most, the piston is never moving through the majority of the shock body (like an offroad shock). So if there is an air bubble in the opposite end of the shock, the piston is never coming anywhere close to it anyway.

Manning, I learned a long time ago not to try and reason with an oval guy. It's like trying to reason with a mountain lion, or a fundamentalist Muslim, or a Republican or something...
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:21 PM   #17854
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Hey, I'm an oval guy ... And I always thought I've been easy to get a long with, easy to reason with ... I like talking r/c cars, no matter what style or kind ... I keep an open mind about new ideas .... Even those we ideas we steal from slow on-road cars! LOL
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:30 PM   #17855
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I didn't say you can not get along with oval guys, just don't try to explain anything to them or have them explain anything to you.
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:01 PM   #17856
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It is however, best to get all the air out. With the vibration from the car, and the piston moving through the oil, the air will eventually get mixed in with the oil. This will change the dampening.
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Old 03-25-2006, 12:43 AM   #17857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manning
I'll give the shock explanation a try.....

The shock on these cars is run very close to max extension at all times. Or "topped out". This is the key point......

If you run the body of the shock attached to the pod ("upside down"), the oil reservoir is the highest point. The shock piston is nearer to the lower end of the shock. Air bubbles will rise to the highest point. Which is the opposite end of the piston. So the piston will always be in oil.

If the shock is "right side up", and there is air in the shock, the piston will be in the air bubble, and move very freely for the first bit until the piston hits oil.

I'd rather have consistent shock action over lowering the unsprung weight a gram or two...but that's just me. Well, I'm lazy also, and can go a few more weeks without rebuilding the shock this way.......

Just last weekend a very experienced oval racer asked me why my shock was "upside down".......I told him about the air bubble, and he just looked at me like a deer in the headlights.......
Thanks for that insight...makes alot of sense
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Old 03-25-2006, 04:18 AM   #17858
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what is the major diff. between the T-Force and the 3.2? how do they perform?
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Old 03-25-2006, 05:00 AM   #17859
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GAce: Huh? Can you explain that again? I'm not following you?
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:08 AM   #17860
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Re: the "oval guy" comment......that was just a smart azz comment on my part. Just trying to be silly. If I had to pick a sub genre of RC racing to claim, it would be oval as I really suck at on-road. It's just that the guy that had the question was one of the local "pros" and struck me as odd. Maybe he was just trying to start a conversation. I dunno........


And it sure is better to have no air in the shock. But at some point there *will* be some, and it might as well be as far away from the piston as possible..

Now I'm going to try and figure out a mod for a big associated macro shock so I can mount it "upside down" on my oval car......
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:29 AM   #17861
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Was driving my L4 for the firs time today, thats my first 1/12 car. Everything was quite ok, except i had noticable push at the end of stright. Car was unersteering a lot in mid corner and on corner exit.
How should i deal with this problem?

I have:
Gray reear(100% traction compound), purple front( 90% traction compound)
0.63 t-bar
0.18 springs in front
0.25mm shim under the front of t-bar
10 degree caster block
Jack the Gripper traction sauce
0.5 toe out
1 degree camber
In general, carpet has quite low traction
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:31 AM   #17862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
what is the major diff. between the T-Force and the 3.2? how do they perform?

They perform very well, but the T-fource is a t-plate car and the 3.2R is a link car. They take different tuning to make them work, different rate springs and dampening too, though some things remain the same like front springs. The t-fource can be tweaked with either tweak screws or springs, whhc makes it somewhat unique in terms of t-plate cars.

Last Sunday at the Gate two of our best drivers raced, one with a T-fource and one with a 3.2r and they both set equal fastest laps of 9.2.
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:36 AM   #17863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanisK
Was driving my L4 for the firs time today, thats my first 1/12 car. Everything was quite ok, except i had noticable push at the end of stright. Car was unersteering a lot in mid corner and on corner exit.
How should i deal with this problem?

I have:
Gray reear(100% traction compound), purple front( 90% traction compound)
0.63 t-bar
0.18 springs in front
0.25mm shim under the front of t-bar
10 degree caster block
Jack the Gripper traction sauce
0.5 toe out
1 degree camber
In general, carpet has quite low traction
What oil and spring do you have in and on your center shock?
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Old 03-25-2006, 09:04 AM   #17864
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Its olive green spring + 30wt oil.
For damper i use trinity red grase
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Old 03-25-2006, 09:13 AM   #17865
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I am new to 12th scale and want to run on asphalt this summer. I have a 3.2r carpet knife and a CRC T-Fource. Which one will be better outside and could anyone recommend a setup?? Tires, springs etc....
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