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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-22-2006, 01:39 PM   #17821
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Default ms2x

hi all. checked out the pic of the ms2x..love the 'tubbed' chassis..
we race on a very unforgiving high traction indoor asphalt board track..a lot of guys are cracking their chassis due to high speed board contact...
i use TRC red fronts and magenta rears...24 front spring with the SSS crc spring. 60 weight shock oil, 30000 diff oil for the damper tubes ,purple springs with a 1mm washer under the spring ball ,2mm ride height. basically its very, very stiff.
Gonna try shockers as damper tubes...
the Hara that i have, cant get rigid enough for this track,,keeps traction rolling..
i would like to get one that will fit the crc carpet knife,,
u interested in making me one?
or one for an L4?
mike
ive recently got the 'Rug Burn',, not delivered yet..interested to see if this works,,dougs an excellant person to deal with..very helpfull and patient..
mike
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Old 03-22-2006, 01:43 PM   #17822
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Default whats this

hi again..
Whats this gadget?
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:27 AM   #17823
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Mike, I am not an asphalt expert, but you might be "over" stiff. Try lightening up the dampening and spring to see if the car becomes more forgiving.

Since we are going to have some fun with 12th scale pics and the nat's are now over. Here's some of my car. Like I said, lowering the t-bar does make more rear grip. You just need to make sure that it's for the right class. Just about every part of this car has to be modified in some way to make it work. It's more of a fun project then essential. Things that can not be seen are: titanium nitrided kingpins with a machined ball stud on top, 1/4x1/2" rear bearings with adjusters for every .025 of an inch, long battery slots for weight bias and not to mention that the t-bar is very easy to replace.
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Old 03-23-2006, 09:03 AM   #17824
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this CK was test car on nationals?
looks separate tweek plates, narrow front tred...

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...bum=25&pos=285
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:08 AM   #17825
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I was talking to Frank over the past week at Nat's. He has a new c/f router for cutting the stuff out. He's obviously putting it to work. He said the new parts support the spring adjustment better and are a little stronger. The car is narrow now. Another plus, it has the p/t recessed or it has the chassis routed open directly under the 'sponder so there is no interferance. Very well thought out! They took top 3 in 19t
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:38 AM   #17826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
Mike, I am not an asphalt expert, but you might be "over" stiff. Try lightening up the dampening and spring to see if the car becomes more forgiving.

Since we are going to have some fun with 12th scale pics and the nat's are now over. Here's some of my car. Like I said, lowering the t-bar does make more rear grip. You just need to make sure that it's for the right class. Just about every part of this car has to be modified in some way to make it work. It's more of a fun project then essential. Things that can not be seen are: titanium nitrided kingpins with a machined ball stud on top, 1/4x1/2" rear bearings with adjusters for every .025 of an inch, long battery slots for weight bias and not to mention that the t-bar is very easy to replace.
Hi Brian,

Was great to meet you at the nats, I really like the modded car you have, looks really good. Did you machine the bottom of the motor mounts to get the motor back down after having it raised byt the t-bar?

I really liked the ms2.2 on asphalt when I ran it at Ripon last year, very stable and predicatable to drive, also the burms at Ripon are very forgiving. There is a chance of running 2 classes there and I think I'm gonna set it up for stock. The hot tires to run were green rears and dbl pink fronts but I think we will be trying wraps too this year.

Chris
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Old 03-23-2006, 11:07 AM   #17827
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hello all rc fans....i just bought a carpent knife 3.2..and just wondering where could i get parts online? does stormerhobbies accept paypal? and where has the most parts in stock?

thanks
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Old 03-23-2006, 11:18 AM   #17828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
hello all rc fans....i just bought a carpent knife 3.2..and just wondering where could i get parts online? does stormerhobbies accept paypal? and where has the most parts in stock?

thanks
www.kthobbies.com accepts paypal I am 99.99% sure and has Calandra parts.
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Old 03-23-2006, 11:28 AM   #17829
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Stormer doesn't do paypal that I know of. i just ordered from them and had to use my Master/ATM card to order. Really fast shipping and good customer service.

KT Hobbies is my other favorite and they do accpet Paypal and have fast shipping also. I didn;t need to use customer service yet because I never ran into any problems.
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:09 PM   #17830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000
I was talking to Frank over the past week at Nat's. He has a new c/f router for cutting the stuff out. He's obviously putting it to work. He said the new parts support the spring adjustment better and are a little stronger. The car is narrow now. Another plus, it has the p/t recessed or it has the chassis routed open directly under the 'sponder so there is no interferance. Very well thought out! They took top 3 in 19t
Frank didn't mention when the newer version might be available did he?
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:18 PM   #17831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
www.kthobbies.com accepts paypal I am 99.99% sure and has Calandra parts.
alright m8...thats really cool.....finally got one......really thanks for your help
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:21 PM   #17832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miu Miu
alright m8...thats really cool.....finally got one......really thanks for your help
YOu may know more about set-ups than me, but if you need help with the CRC 3.2-just post away here. I am running one now and trying lots of different things.
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Old 03-23-2006, 12:21 PM   #17833
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all of the Pictures of Frank's new carpetknife.

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...bum=25&pos=285

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...bum=25&pos=286

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...bum=25&pos=287

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...bum=25&pos=288

frank said he had it at cleveland just wouldn't let me take pictures of it the bum. but he did hook me up with some tires to use at the nats! love the high rollers!
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Old 03-23-2006, 06:31 PM   #17834
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Chris,
Yea, there was a lot of machine work on the MS2X. It's easier to point out the factory parts instead of listing the modified parts. Factory parts: center shock and damper tubes, upper rear plate, body posts, front upper a-arms...

... shock mount....

... front spindles...

that's about it. The rest I either modified or built. A lot was learned from this car that I hope to carry over to the MS line.

Frank didn't say anything about an eta on the new car/parts. My guess is that he was "shaking them down" to see if they are good. Nothing like testing in the heat of the battle.
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Old 03-23-2006, 09:48 PM   #17835
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As I look closer at the pictures, I see a lot of similarities to the SpeedMerchant Rev.4. Look at the change in the dampener tubes. They are angled slightly forward just like the SM Rev.4. I also like the position of the tweak springs, they are moved outward for a finer adjustability. They are not quite as far out as I would like to see though. I also like the predrilled center holes in the bottom plate and front of the chassis. That will make it easier to center up the weight and measure width from center. I am also noticing that there are not any balls on the bottom pod plate for the tweak springs to rest on. It looks like there is less distance between the tweak plates and the chassis. Im going to guess that they are 0.250 closer to the chassis. This would also effect the angle of the dampener tubes. Im not seeing much different in the front end except the center brace. Turn over a Rev.4 and look at the number of screw holes in the back end of the chassis. Could the additional screw holes in the CRC weaken this area of the chassis?
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