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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-19-2006, 10:49 PM   #17806
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I have a question for Doug Powell regarding his Rug Rash car. Doug have you considered running tweak springs on your flex plate similar to the CRC and Speedmerchant cars instead of tweak screws?
I love the concept and layout of this car, especially using a flex plate to control the front to back effects of the motor's torque. The "T-bar" doesn't pass the full torque of a modified motor, or any motor, to the shock. I feel that is the advantage of "T-bar" cars over "link" cars in the modified class.
Thanks for your time.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:17 AM   #17807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinJ
I have a question for Doug Powell regarding his Rug Rash car. Doug have you considered running tweak springs on your flex plate similar to the CRC and Speedmerchant cars instead of tweak screws?
I love the concept and layout of this car, especially using a flex plate to control the front to back effects of the motor's torque. The "T-bar" doesn't pass the full torque of a modified motor, or any motor, to the shock. I feel that is the advantage of "T-bar" cars over "link" cars in the modified class.
Thanks for your time.

The short answer is no. Now that being said, the beauty of the Rug Burn is its low parts count.
Tweak springs could be added but what would we gain by doing that?
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Old 03-20-2006, 10:49 AM   #17808
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Hi everyone!

I've just been to my first 1/12 race(the norwegian championship), I raced an SP12G3, and had a blast!! Now I want more!! The car is a bit outdated, and I looking for a new one.. but since I still am a rookie - I need a simple car, that still can be competitive...
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:47 PM   #17809
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The new Corally SP12X should be out in the next month or so. It looks very nice.
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:33 PM   #17810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugFreak
Hi everyone!

I've just been to my first 1/12 race(the norwegian championship), I raced an SP12G3, and had a blast!! Now I want more!! The car is a bit outdated, and I looking for a new one.. but since I still am a rookie - I need a simple car, that still can be competitive...
Get an associted L4; most of the latest cars are based on part or all of this car. In the UK it outnumbers the other chassis' by at least 2:1, and there are usually about half a dozen in a UK national a final.

Its a proven design, easy to maintain, and spares are easy to get.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:42 PM   #17811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowell
The short answer is no. Now that being said, the beauty of the Rug Burn is its low parts count.
Tweak springs could be added but what would we gain by doing that?
In a word, tunablity. With the tunablity of tweak springs you could have the best of both the "t-bar" car and the "link" car.
Don't get me wrong, I've seen the Sizzler concept previously and love the layout. The batteries should be centered in the chassis.
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:35 AM   #17812
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You can go to farr in centering mass. On our Cat 3000 4wd buggy we found moving out the saddle pack batteries 5mm per side made the car a lot smoother over bumps and more planted in parts of the track where there were quick direction changes...like chicanes.

In a real race car you sit in the car. This lets you feel what its doing and give you the ability to control a fast reacting car.

R/C cars need to be more stable. If you car reacts too fast you wont be able to turn consistant laps.

Anyone can get their 1/12th saddle pack car no matter how wide it is to be too reactive and change direction too fast so this centralization of mass talk looks good on paper but in reality its not essential.

I am getting a Rug Burn because it is diffrent, it looks really cool and I want to see if I can get it to be fast on asphalt. I don't necessarily buy into its theory.
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:20 AM   #17813
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You do have a point, but I feel that with the mass centralized, the car can change direction more efficiently, period.
More efficiently can mean faster, which can be too fast, but that indicates you have another problem... ... either you're getting old, or you need some roll damping

BTW: the rug burn doesn't go full out on reducing polar moment of inertia; the battery is still 'sideways'. (Unlike the Ascari and that other car mentioned a page or so back)

Glad you like the car though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
You can go to farr in centering mass. On our Cat 3000 4wd buggy we found moving out the saddle pack batteries 5mm per side made the car a lot smoother over bumps and more planted in parts of the track where there were quick direction changes...like chicanes.

In a real race car you sit in the car. This lets you feel what its doing and give you the ability to control a fast reacting car.

R/C cars need to be more stable. If you car reacts too fast you wont be able to turn consistant laps.

Anyone can get their 1/12th saddle pack car no matter how wide it is to be too reactive and change direction too fast so this centralization of mass talk looks good on paper but in reality its not essential.

I am getting a Rug Burn because it is diffrent, it looks really cool and I want to see if I can get it to be fast on asphalt. I don't necessarily buy into its theory.
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:25 AM   #17814
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Like Doug said, we're expecting a longer life span. Mainly because the mounting points are further apart than a conventional T-bar, and also because it flexes in a way that the stress is more spread out over the whole plate. There's no real high-stress area.
Well.. ... that's what the CAD program said. There are still very few prototypes, we can't be sure of any long-term effects. Time will tell.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trips
I was wondering if Doug or Elvo might weigh in with an opinion on how long a life to expect from the flex plate on the Rug Burn... longer than a typical t-bar, or about the same?

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:34 PM   #17815
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now he just has to figure out what to do with the left over fiberglass donuts.
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:53 PM   #17816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason
now he just has to figure out what to do with the left over fiberglass donuts.

True! Sell them to AE to make T-bars out of

I have been thinking about that waste of fiberglass when I was doing the CAD work, but... .. when designing a race car, it's better not to start compromising that kind of thing.
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Old 03-21-2006, 04:18 PM   #17817
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of course. the material still remains though. perhaps some aggressive ride height adjusters. pivot ball stuff, goofy adjustable battery tray, gauge for
?camber.. or if you could mate a few together you have a car stand.

please, all royalties and proceeds from intellectual property needs to go to charity.
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:53 PM   #17818
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more cool 12th scale from the carpet nats....

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=25&pos=91

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=25&pos=92
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Old 03-22-2006, 08:59 AM   #17819
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That's slapmasters X-car, looks very nice and it seems to work well.
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Old 03-22-2006, 10:40 AM   #17820
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Yep, that's my MS2X car. That cat's out of the bag! That is Weylin's b/l mod car. I didn't like his wiring and he later cleaned it up. He had some electronic issues all week and had a bad outting. Mine went a lot better. The low t-bar made for some more mechanical rear grip then the convential located t-bar. This car was basically built for Fast Track carpet and Jack the Gripper. I was able to use some tires more consistently then some other drivers. One concern that I had is that it would make too much rear grip in a stock or 19t class. I found that to be the case in 19t and I was able to change the front track width which increased corner speed. This car is very difficult to make and I do not intend to produce them. It's rather a very elaborate experiment on t-bar locations.
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