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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-10-2006, 07:05 PM   #17656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
You want my pay-pal addy for the ten bucks....but you better add 3% so I really get 10 bucks....
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:07 PM   #17657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
Agreed, Both systems do work well,and it does come down to personal preference. I just prefer link cars for the reasons I specified above. Neither is any easier for a newbie if the newbie is educated on the nuances of their particular car. If your build is bad on either type of car, the car is going to suck. If you don't maintain either type of car, the car is going to suck. It makes no difference which type of vehicle you run. I have run dozens of T-bar cars, and each of the link cars, I am more consistent with a link car, and the car is less work for me. I guess I'm just an extraordinary wrench
I suck it up real bad with both styles...

Where you been racing lately Ian?
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:28 PM   #17658
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Ian, you need to get your lazy butt over the WOHAG tomorrow! They do allow Paragon and their big races.....
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Old 03-10-2006, 08:31 PM   #17659
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Does anyone here have the crc dura-shock? I just recently purchased one and it doesn't have any threads on the inside of the shock body. The instructions show it being threaded on the inside. I can't screw the delrin cap into the shock body. What's up, am I missing something.
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Old 03-10-2006, 09:00 PM   #17660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
Does anyone here have the crc dura-shock? I just recently purchased one and it doesn't have any threads on the inside of the shock body. The instructions show it being threaded on the inside. I can't screw the delrin cap into the shock body. What's up, am I missing something.
The dura-shock is the best 12th scale shock ever made! Sounds like you might have gotten a bad one. Contact john@teamcrc.com and he should be able to take care of you.
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Old 03-10-2006, 09:21 PM   #17661
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A better question would be how many times has Ian started spring vs t-bar arguements

Its all good I just wanted to make note that the drivers are a big part of the equation

I don't care what you guys run as long as its a CRC

Just messin with you Ian

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Old 03-10-2006, 09:48 PM   #17662
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if a converted T-Fource counts...can someone point me out a good low-medium bite carpet setup?
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Old 03-11-2006, 04:38 AM   #17663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormperson
Check out the Speedmerchant Rev. 4 (www.teamspeedmerchant.com). Its a great car to start with and a great car to run at the highest level of competition with as well. The old style front end that it comes with has less than half of the parts of the strut front end that many cars come with yet works great, also due to that and links instead of a t-bar there are alot less parts to tweak/break compared to a t-bar. As far as set up, I have run pretty much the EXACT same set up since I first ran the car two years ago, at big races and club races.
how do you adjust camber and caster on those front ends on those REV 3 and 4 model cars

i actually think i have a REV 3 haha but the orginal owner says its a carpet knife with REV 3 parts on it.

heres the link
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
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Old 03-11-2006, 05:21 AM   #17664
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Damn I like the T-bar vs the spring car thing. I run one of each and they both work.Its all in the setup of the car,and the most important thing in a 12th scale car is corner speed.and it all is part of the setup of the car.
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Old 03-11-2006, 06:05 AM   #17665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
how do you adjust camber and caster on those front ends on those REV 3 and 4 model cars
Shims.
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Old 03-11-2006, 09:37 AM   #17666
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Quote:
Does anyone here have the crc dura-shock? I just recently purchased one and it doesn't have any threads on the inside of the shock body. The instructions show it being threaded on the inside. I can't screw the delrin cap into the shock body. What's up, am I missing something.
Did you get the dura cap and a new shock body? If not then you need the new body too.
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Old 03-11-2006, 11:52 AM   #17667
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Yeah, I bought the complete kit. Are there thread on the inside of the shock body, because mine doesn't have any threads.
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Old 03-11-2006, 12:38 PM   #17668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
Yeah, I bought the complete kit. Are there thread on the inside of the shock body, because mine doesn't have any threads.
Well, as far as I know (I bought the CRC complete damperkit as well), you buy an entire VCS shock with colour of your liking from CRC.

Then you need to buy the conversion kit to make it Dura. I dont know if they sell the Dura complete (silly, I know).

You could post on the CRC forum and ask there.
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Old 03-11-2006, 01:04 PM   #17669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
A better question would be how many times has Ian started spring vs t-bar arguements

Its all good I just wanted to make note that the drivers are a big part of the equation

I don't care what you guys run as long as its a CRC

Just messin with you Ian

Michael Skeen
Skeen, I didn't start this one, just weighed in on it. T-bar cars have won a lot of races, and so have link cars. You're right, most of it is driver, but it's also a ton easier with a car better suited to your driving style. Dayger and Pulfer could win with T-bar cars too, but they choose to drive 'Knives.

I just grow tired of hearing how much easier T-bar cars are for newbies, when I see them frustrated trying to tweak them, or struggle with the strut front-end. The most important part of 12th scale for any newbie is the initial build, next is routine maintenance. Either car if built right is fine, I just find my link car to be way more consistent than any t-bar car I ever owned. I actually ran Pulfer's T-fource once, (with springs, it felt like crap with screws in the bar) and thought it was great. It was just missing a little mid-corner steering.
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Old 03-11-2006, 01:09 PM   #17670
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Blake: Not really anywhere lately. I keep hoping Platinum will come back to life so I can start racing there again. I've been laying pretty low since Snowbirds though.

Righter: Had to work today, couldn't make it. Hope you guys have fun.
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