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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-10-2006, 08:47 AM   #17641
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LOL Ray.

My car setup I haven't touched in a year. Same everywhere. With two different t-fources.

I'll get to play with 19 at the nats and see how that goes. I don't see changing it that much at all. just different tires and maybe a little dual rate.

I'm going for a podium this time... I'm tired of being mid pack in the A.

You know I'd help you out anytime. I have no secrets.

You are always fast in 12th too it must be the CAR holding you back

later

Michael
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Old 03-10-2006, 01:13 PM   #17642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barrys
As someone known for sometimes 'less than precise' driving, I started with link cars like the SpeedMerchant, then tried to go to T-Bar. I am now back firmly with link cars. The agony of barely tapping a board with the side of your car (if it pushes wide in a sweeper, whether at a major event or a club race) and having the T-Bar shatter is a bad thing I decided. The old style front end looks overly simple, but works great (not a bad combination).
EXACTLY. I always found that it's much easier to diagnose and fix any slight handling maladies on a link car as opposed to a t-bar car, and the Old School front end is around a million times more consistent than the strut front-end. The way I see it is, I do less work maintaining my link car, don't have to screw around with that hideous front-end, and if something does go wrong it's not masked by some ridiculous hunk of fiberglass that may or may not be flexing more in one direction as opposed to the other. Rev. 4 all the way.
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Old 03-10-2006, 02:49 PM   #17643
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Yeah settings up a link car is easy.

A T-Bar with 2 pivot balls vs. A pivot ball, 4 adjustable rod ends and 2 turnbuckles

T-Bar Tweak - 2 screw vs. 2 screws, 2 springs.

On crashing...if you hit hard enough to break a T-bar you hit hard enough to stretch your rod ends out of adjustment and tweak the position of the rod end screws on the chassis knocking your alignment out.

There is a lot more to set up on a link car than on a t-bar car. At the track I see way more jacked up link cars (the owners don't know any better) than T-cars (whose owners are just as careless).
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:18 PM   #17644
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I don't know I think guys that run spring cars like to blow stuff out of proportion LOL

Both cars are fast. and both cars win races.

From a maintenance stand point...

A t-bar can be changed in a few minutes its not really that hard unless you are just plain lazy. If you own a touring car I don't want to hear anything about it being a pain to tape in batteries or t-bars are a pain to change out LOL.

As for the front end... they have come a long way from when the dynamic front end first came out. All the parts even the stock parts from associated are perfect fits now. I haven't seen a problem since the new reactive blocks came along. with the straight upper pin.

I will say that I think t-bar cars are easier for the beginner. If you don't set up a spring car right it will be a handful.

$.02
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Old 03-10-2006, 03:34 PM   #17645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
I don't know I think guys that run spring cars like to blow stuff out of proportion LOL

Both cars are fast. and both cars win races.

From a maintenance stand point...

A t-bar can be changed in a few minutes its not really that hard unless you are just plain lazy. If you own a touring car I don't want to hear anything about it being a pain to tape in batteries or t-bars are a pain to change out LOL.

As for the front end... they have come a long way from when the dynamic front end first came out. All the parts even the stock parts from associated are perfect fits now. I haven't seen a problem since the new reactive blocks came along. with the straight upper pin.

I will say that I think t-bar cars are easier for the beginner. If you don't set up a spring car right it will be a handful.

$.02
A t-bar car is no more forgiving to improper set-up than a link car, a car with dubro style adjustable links will survive hits that will break Silva spring steel t-plates with no noticeable change, and an individual with a jacked up link car, would have just as many issues with a t-bar car. The new front-end is alot better than the original strut front-end, but it's still a half ounce heavier, and way more susceptible to change in a shunt than an Old school front-end. At the tracks I run at, you know, in the midwest where you have a way higher concentration of 12th scale guys, you'll see a ton of beginners trying to figure out why their cars tweak fine on the bench, but suck on the track, change t-bars and voila, problem solved. I've been doing this for twenty years, and I've run a bunch of T-bar cars. The advent of the link car is the best thing that's ever happened to 12th scale. Nevermind the fact that Stock at Snowbirds, Cleveland, and the IIC were all won with Link cars, as well as mod 1,2,3 at Cleveland. And the fact that Dayger qualified 2nd in Mod at the Birds with a link car in Mod, the first time he's run Mod at a big race.
They work just as well if not better, are more adjustable, and survive hist better. Done both, went with what works......
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Old 03-10-2006, 04:08 PM   #17646
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Personally I think it is personal preference. Both types of cars work well. This is the age old argument when it comes to 12th scale and it will always be that way. You are going to have both sides of the fence.
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Old 03-10-2006, 04:18 PM   #17647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ187RC
Personally I think it is personal preference. Both types of cars work well. This is the age old argument when it comes to 12th scale and it will always be that way. You are going to have both sides of the fence.
Agreed, Both systems do work well,and it does come down to personal preference. I just prefer link cars for the reasons I specified above. Neither is any easier for a newbie if the newbie is educated on the nuances of their particular car. If your build is bad on either type of car, the car is going to suck. If you don't maintain either type of car, the car is going to suck. It makes no difference which type of vehicle you run. I have run dozens of T-bar cars, and each of the link cars, I am more consistent with a link car, and the car is less work for me. I guess I'm just an extraordinary wrench
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Old 03-10-2006, 04:24 PM   #17648
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Yep it's down to preference, I used to have an L4 and got a Carpet Knife 3.2R and found it a lot more consistent to drive and easier to make changes.
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:04 PM   #17649
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t bars and link car????

can someone explain this to me?
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Old 03-10-2006, 05:06 PM   #17650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_got_m8_4_$85
t bars and link car????

can someone explain this to me?
This site explains it pretty well

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/car...speedtune.html

-James
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Old 03-10-2006, 06:53 PM   #17651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
A t-bar car is no more forgiving to improper set-up than a link car, a car with dubro style adjustable links will survive hits that will break Silva spring steel t-plates with no noticeable change, and an individual with a jacked up link car, would have just as many issues with a t-bar car. The new front-end is alot better than the original strut front-end, but it's still a half ounce heavier, and way more susceptible to change in a shunt than an Old school front-end. At the tracks I run at, you know, in the midwest where you have a way higher concentration of 12th scale guys, you'll see a ton of beginners trying to figure out why their cars tweak fine on the bench, but suck on the track, change t-bars and voila, problem solved. I've been doing this for twenty years, and I've run a bunch of T-bar cars. The advent of the link car is the best thing that's ever happened to 12th scale. Nevermind the fact that Stock at Snowbirds, Cleveland, and the IIC were all won with Link cars, as well as mod 1,2,3 at Cleveland. And the fact that Dayger qualified 2nd in Mod at the Birds with a link car in Mod, the first time he's run Mod at a big race.
They work just as well if not better, are more adjustable, and survive hist better. Done both, went with what works......
How many times did smyka win with a t-bar car in prior years including snowbirds and cleveland. Vicki won with a t-bar car. Bottom line is more people run link cars now at the top level in stock 12th. You hand dayger a properly tuned t-bar car and he'd still be up top. Drivers win races not cars, tires, batteries, motors. The best tuned car in a mediocre driver yields mediocre results.

Same reason mod 12th t-bar cars win most of the time more top drivers are running them....

I may never win an A main but my t-bar car has made several a mains in the last year... tortorice made the a in cleveland, I made vegas and snowbirds, smyka runs a t-bar and is always in the A.

Don't count us out just yet
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Old 03-10-2006, 06:57 PM   #17652
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10 bucks to the first guy who tells me how many times the t bar vs link car discussion has come up.
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Old 03-10-2006, 06:58 PM   #17653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
10 bucks to the first guy who tells me how many times the t bar vs link car discussion has come up.
including your post......1,587,329 and a half....for that one time when it was kinda talked about.
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:01 PM   #17654
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skeen is right guys.give the drivers some credit also.blackstock was unreal at the birds with a t bar car.he would be unreal with a legends car also.doesnt mean that a legends car is the best.
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Old 03-10-2006, 07:02 PM   #17655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K
including your post......1,587,329 and a half....for that one time when it was kinda talked about.
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