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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-07-2006, 07:02 PM   #17596
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anyone have a picture of the Powell old style CF brace?
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:06 PM   #17597
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Odpurple- On your link cars where you run the motor wires underneath the battery, what means are you using to fasten the wires to the chassis? (I'm using 16ga wire)

On prior T-bar cars, I've just been running the wires down right next to the T-bar, but I've recently switched to a link car and would like to run each wire separately down between each cell.. (hope that makes sense)

Just wondering your opinion on the best way to hold the wires in place..
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:32 PM   #17598
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reay to get whooped up on with your old car Mike j/k
ill let you pass me when your coming up for another lap on the field
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Old 03-07-2006, 07:33 PM   #17599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
anyone have a picture of the Powell old style CF brace?
Here is a picture of the brace. It is cut from 3mm carbon fiber and includes a pair of 2-56 button head screws for attachment.

D.P.
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Old 03-07-2006, 08:12 PM   #17600
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hey, i am doing a group buy on fibre-lyte ride height spacers

Fibre-lyte carbon fibre 12th scale ride height spacers
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Old 03-07-2006, 09:47 PM   #17601
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Can some 1/12 expert driver comment on my 1/12? Is the wiring ok? This is my first 1/12th scale.
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Old 03-07-2006, 09:51 PM   #17602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
Can some 1/12 expert driver comment on my 1/12? Is the wiring ok? This is my first 1/12th scale.
From a rookie's perspective...That ESC looks backwards to me. Three motor/battery wires could be shorter if it is turned around 180 degrees.

What gauge wire is that?

There are expert drivers and expert builders. And in a few cases some are both. OK odpurple or crashby...Show him.

Nice car. Is there no crossbrace available to go between the sides of the front suspension?
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 03-07-2006 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:01 PM   #17603
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Isn't that HRS receiver doesn't work in 4.8V?
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:08 PM   #17604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie M
Isn't that HRS receiver doesn't work in 4.8V?
Now that would qualify as an expert question!
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:08 PM   #17605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
Can some 1/12 expert driver comment on my 1/12? Is the wiring ok? This is my first 1/12th scale.
Rotate the ESC 180*, use 14 or 16 ga wire. I also agree with Bill.

E
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:12 PM   #17606
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They are 16 ga wires.

Thanks, I think I will rotate the ESC around.
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:22 PM   #17607
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Looks pretty good. I would suggest turning the ESC 90 degrees CCW. This would help to keep the control wires away from the edge of the car where other cars could come in and damage them. I would also place the ESC switch with on facing forward. I have seen switches get turned off from the G forces of hitting a wall or a car getting in and shutting them off. I have gone as for as to have the switch assessable through a cutout in the chassis and a label on the bottom pointing to the switch for the track marshal to find it easier. That way they can turn it back on for you. Putting a pinup picture on the bottom will also get them to look at the bottom of the car.
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:53 AM   #17608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biker
Odpurple- On your link cars where you run the motor wires underneath the battery, what means are you using to fasten the wires to the chassis? (I'm using 16ga wire)

On prior T-bar cars, I've just been running the wires down right next to the T-bar, but I've recently switched to a link car and would like to run each wire separately down between each cell.. (hope that makes sense)

Just wondering your opinion on the best way to hold the wires in place..
The silicone jacket on the wire we all use doesn't stick to anything very well. The best solution we've found so far is to use epoxy (Steve found some 5 min stuff that works well), just clean the wire wih motor spray first. The wires are held in place by the batteies, so the glue is there just to keep the wires in place when working on the car.

I like to run both wires down the center of the chassis, under the middle cells. This neccessitates the use of thin jacket wire like the 16 ga from Castle Creations. You can also strip and shrink-wrap regular 16ga wire where it goes under the batteries to make it fit (btw, super glue works fine on the shink wrap to hold the wires to the chassis).

The point of running the wires down the center of the car is to negate any effect the wires may have on the rear suspension, running the wires separately under two of the batteries makes this more dificult to accomplish.
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:07 AM   #17609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
Can some 1/12 expert driver comment on my 1/12? Is the wiring ok? This is my first 1/12th scale.
That is a very nice wiring job, all the wires made the right length. I agree that rotating the esc 180 deg would be better, it would make the wires shorter. Attaching the battery + wire closer to the esc would lessen the effect of the wires on the read pod movement. There are other solutions like the low-centered wiring we use, but this is a fine job, it's cleaner than 99% of the cars out there (most pros cars don't look this good)

BTW do you have a parts source for that car? I have one but don't race it because I can't even get wheels!
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:21 AM   #17610
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Very clean wiring, few things tho, you have your crossover wire for your packs running under your shock, means you have to remove a shock end everytime you change out your pack. Does anyone else to this? i have a larger loop over the shock, with enough room as to not fowl the shock and pod movement. removing a shock end will loosen it surely?

Also i moved my rec and speedy a little further forward, as im clumsy when applying the battery tape. I gave myself a little more room to get the tape through. Also id considering wiring your packs differently to get your positive on the same side as the esc. What a few guys do, is split the insulation on the batt and motor + wire so the have one continuous wire which comes from the esc, gets soldered to the + of the batt and continues to the + of the motor.

Apart from those suggestions, looks very nice.
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