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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-01-2002, 08:11 PM   #1741
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Guys,

Always ran stock, but now we have switched to 19 turn spec for this season....

Anyone have starting numbers (i.e. rollout) for a 80 x 60 track?

Thanks!
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Old 11-02-2002, 09:52 PM   #1742
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Kinda raw to 12th rite now guys,but got a few questions.I got a 12L.It's pretty much stock(upset for a paragon part that I found hanging on the wall @ the lhs).We run on asphalt on a sometimes tight med.traction club track.

#1.what kind of tire fare over others on asphalt?
#2.do the foams need to change like rubber does with temp changes?
#3.any sugestions on what foams to run.Was told to run purple front pink rear by a local,but he seems to be running plaid rear and purple front.He says to do as he says not as he does.He is a jack anyways
#4.I don't have a lot of room to space the gears just rite with the 48 pitch gears on it.Was told (by same jack )to change to 64.Any ideas on what brand fares over the other.
#5.I had a lot more questions but have fogotten them for now.
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Old 11-03-2002, 11:22 AM   #1743
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purple front pink rear works great, that's what I run. as far as track temp..when it's really hot I don't use as much traction compound as when it is cold, sometimes none at all. tire warmers can help if it is really cold. I always run the same compounds though.

64 pitch gears are better due to the smaller increments that you can change your gear ratio. I use Kimbrough spur gears and RRP pinions
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Old 11-03-2002, 12:43 PM   #1744
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Thanks for the info new racer.does it really matter witch way you run the center shock.Is their an upside down to the shock?
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Old 11-03-2002, 02:27 PM   #1745
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My Corally G2 had really worn out steering blocks, loads of slop, so I got some new ones from my LHS. The old ones had a hole that the king-pin went through but these new ones have small bearings. The problem is that when I put the blocks on the king-pin and front axle rub together I've ground down the axles so that they have clearence but it's not ideal. I've seen a couple of descriptions of "new front axles", are these what I need on my car?
Thanks for any help

Has anyone tried the new trinity monster stock on their 12th? I might get a Fantom tuned one when my P2K is worn out.
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Old 11-03-2002, 03:29 PM   #1746
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Quote:
Originally posted by littledog
Thanks for the info new racer.does it really matter witch way you run the center shock.Is their an upside down to the shock?
run it with the oil reservoir down that way if a little oil leaks out the piston will still be in oil all the time
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Old 11-04-2002, 05:26 AM   #1747
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Louis B: 2 of the oval racers here had the monstor in stock class. Did not run much better than a tuned GM3 or P2K2. Have you tried a Hellfire/Core or MVP with the narrowed brushes? I got some brushes from Big Jim, now my Hellfire funs great and pulls like a P2K. 62W@20A and 71W@25A.
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Old 11-04-2002, 06:28 AM   #1748
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RC Nitro, I've only just started 1/12th and it's my first go with a stock motor so I haven't had much chance to experiment. My P2K is fairly quick, but that's because geared up 1 tooth so as to give me a little less acceleration and make it easier for me to learn with (but I think it's also a better balance of acceleration and top speed )
The track is so tight that most people use P2Ks or MVPs but as you can be at full throttle most of the way round (with good driving) a P2K2 may be better suited to the track
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Old 11-04-2002, 11:30 AM   #1749
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I just picked up a new GM3 Pro for my 12L, is there anything I should do to it before I run it? Are you guys switching out the springs or brushes in it for something else? I was kind of suprised to see that efficency is only 50.9% @ 5.0v. RPM is 18,402, Power is 59w@8.7K, and Torque is 99.2 Nmm. Thanks for any tips.
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Old 11-04-2002, 11:59 AM   #1750
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I don't know about anyone else, but I use the softest spring possible. And Peak 2151 brushes.
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Old 11-04-2002, 12:34 PM   #1751
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Default Run time on 3300???

Ok, I haven't gone run my GP 3300 yet, but would like to find out what's the run time on 4-cells mod? Probably 10-11 turn motors? Anyone? I had a buddy that ran 12X4 with new GP 3300 and he said he got about 12 minutes!!! That's a lot!!!
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Old 11-04-2002, 12:47 PM   #1752
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Action: Those numbers are Fantom number, not Robi or CE turbodyno. What I have done is use the Reedy 769 brush (767 w/cavity) and green (+), blue (-). or tweek springs to 6.5fs (+) 6.0fs (-). If you want I will post my TD numbers tonight when I get home.

Louis B: I just started myself Been working on the "boys" to get them to run the 1/12's. As we move to a new facility in 3 weeks people are draging their feet till the new track opens. I have an advantage as I am one of the ones laying out the track options. So if I lose I can blame the guy that laid out the track LOL
P2K2 is a good cross between a GM3 and a P2K. Can's are the same, the P2K2 arm has 2 less laminations than a P2K. That is from Big Jim, designer of the P2K.
I have 3 motors tuned for 5v and 5 motors for 7v. I run stock TC. My favorite motor is the P2K. In order of preferance; P2K, P2K2, Hellfire w/766 narrowed brush, GM3. I prefer torque with my motors.
Brushes: 4499's make good power, but are designed for coms .275" or less. To use these rub the tips on a flat formica top and wear down the tips slightly. Reedy 767 work just as well, but are easier on the comm. 766 is a torque brush, 769 is a 767 with a cavity and 768 is a 767 with a vert slot.
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Old 11-04-2002, 12:49 PM   #1753
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darnould runs mod and 3300. Check with him.
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Old 11-04-2002, 01:07 PM   #1754
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Thanks RC for the tips. Another question, do you guys juice your motors for 4 cell stock?
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Old 11-04-2002, 03:35 PM   #1755
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Thanks RC Nitro, I have some 767s on the way and might try them this Thursday
At the moment my driving makes a much bigger difference than the motor
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