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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-26-2006, 06:23 PM   #17506
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Yeah, I saw that they hit almost 40 or so bucks. I am not willing to spend that kind of coin on this car right now since I am not even racing it right now. The AE servo mounts are way better than the CRC ones. Mine with the CRC ones if I hit something, it causes the servo to shift to one side and then the trim is way off. It is pretty hard to drive a car for 8 minutes like that.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:01 PM   #17507
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what size diff balls do the rev.4 (and I am guessing 99% of other 12th cars) use?
Help hungry people while learning.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:04 PM   #17508
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Aren't they 1/8"? Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:15 PM   #17509
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I've got the 3/32 in mine.
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:18 PM   #17510
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EVERY 1/12th car takes 1/8" balls (even Japanese cars).

Every spur gear on the market is 3/32" thick where the diff balls go so if you have 3/32" balls in there you are running a rear spool not a diff...lol!
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 02-26-2006, 08:32 PM   #17511
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Just checked and they are 3/32 IRS balls and I'm using a Kimbough gear. Diff works perfectly.

Edit... I was checking around and I see that it should be 1/8. Crazy. I wonder why my diff works. I have an old yellow IRS axle and that spur is about 3 or 4 years old. I know it is working because if I put new diff rings in it I'll see grooves in the rings. Wow... I guess I should use those 3/32 fballs for my Lazer.

Last edited by Scrad; 02-26-2006 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:01 PM   #17512
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Default Brushless Setup

I just put a GTB and 4300 in my 1/12 scale, because my local carpet roadcourse track is going to allow them to run with stock, until we have enough for our own class.

Does anyone know what program is best?
Are there any advanced settings that need to be changed?
What rollout should I run, if I normally run 1.75 with a monster?
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:03 PM   #17513
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Originally Posted by Scrad
Just checked and they are 3/32 IRS balls and I'm using a Kimbough gear. Diff works perfectly.

Edit... I was checking around and I see that it should be 1/8. Crazy. I wonder why my diff works. I have an old yellow IRS axle and that spur is about 3 or 4 years old. I know it is working because if I put new diff rings in it I'll see grooves in the rings. Wow... I guess I should use those 3/32 fballs for my Lazer.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:53 AM   #17514
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Default servo ??

after having problems with my hitec 225 servo, i am now in the need for a new servo for my 1/12 scale..

this is what i am looking at... and all are priced close to each other.....

jr 3550
futaba 9602 or 9650
airtronics 94145

of the 4 what would be the better one (all of them are better then the 225 this i know)

just looking for a good servo that will last a long time... and does not have the centering problem.......

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Old 02-27-2006, 03:47 AM   #17515
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I've run both the 9602 and the 94145. Both work great, but of the two, I find the 94145 slightly quicker, but it seems to be a bit fragile compared to the 9602.
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Old 02-27-2006, 06:26 AM   #17516
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We have also found that the 94145 are very fragile. We have taken new servos out of the package and have them not center properly. So far I have sent in 3 new ones to Airtronics in the past year for repair. We have one of the JR3550 servos. It was a used one with a car. Not sure how old this servo is. It has worked without any problems all of this season. The new CRC CK has the holes in the chassis predrilled to mount the 3550 servo in the AE solid mounts. The JR3650 is the digital version of the 3550 and has the exact same dimensions. The price is just a few dollars more.
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Old 02-27-2006, 07:01 AM   #17517
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Both of my Airtronics 94145 servos have worked perfectly over the last two carpet seasons. Centering has never been an issue and they are fast enough for me.
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 02-27-2006, 07:20 AM   #17518
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All are good servo's I have used the 3550 the 3650 and the 94145 - the 94145 and 3650 are the fastest (and even better wtih a radio like the JRZ1 that has high speed mode) the biggest difference is the 3650 has more tourque which I feel makes a bit of a difference - of all three I got rid of my 3550's because the 3650 out performs it - but I keep the 94145 because it is really the fastest servo .07 compared to .09 with the 3650 - but who can tell .02 sec difference anyway.............I run Jrservos most of the time because I'm using a JRZ1 radio . If I had an Airtronics radio I'd run Airtonics serv's - KO same ect. It's all good................
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Old 02-27-2006, 07:39 AM   #17519
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forget all the rest and run the best. ko 949. lol
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Old 02-27-2006, 08:36 AM   #17520
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it's all good..............
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