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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-24-2006, 06:39 PM   #17491
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I have been told to use sun tan lotion on the tires and store them in a zip lock bag overnight. This should bring them back.
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:38 AM   #17492
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can someone help me understand rollout for a 12th scaler. i am new to them and i set my 10th around .90 to 1.05 but the 12th seems to want more.

could someone give me some insite on the proper procedure for the "direct drive" rollout

thanks
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Old 02-25-2006, 07:49 AM   #17493
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with 1.80 rear tires and 100 spur anywhere from 27-30 pinion - with the 27 tooth it's 1.527 - but it depends on the size and type of track you are running on - at Y- City in Zanesville, Ohio where I race,depending upon how the track is laid out I have used a 1.29 for a tight, technical track to a 1.81 for a more flowing faster track..........IMHO

also depends on the type of motor - I am taking about stock - and then again it depends on the type of stock ie smaller pinion for higher rpm motor.
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:41 AM   #17494
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Default rollout

who needs a fancy graph when you have PI. MMMMM PI.

tire dia x 3.14 / spur size x pinion = rollout

example

1.8 x 3.14 / 96 x 28 = 1.65 rollout
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Old 02-25-2006, 09:52 AM   #17495
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If you go to: www.ycityhobby.com

and click on R/C goodies and click on Widgets and you will be able to download a great rollout calculator that was written by the owner of Y-City Hobbies (FREE)
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:15 PM   #17496
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Default CarbonWorks Pro CRC Carpet Knife Chassis

I was looking around on eBay and found a couple of replacement chassis for the CRC CK 3.x. Has anyone heard about or seen a chassis made by CarbonWorks? It looks and sounds like a good thing. Iím just looking for some additional input from others.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:20 PM   #17497
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I was watching both of them. My stocker is tweaked so I need a replacement. I will let you know if I get one and how it is. I have seen them on there for the last few weeks but I haven't been able to get one for the price I am looking for.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:28 PM   #17498
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I sent a message to one of the others on eBay that bought one. They were not the Pro version but the wide version. We have a SM Rev 4 and a CRC CK that we race against each other. The SM is faster in the corners. Since I need a chassis for my CK I thought that one like the SM would be great.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:37 PM   #17499
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Be sure to let us know what the guy says. It would be nice to get some feedback on them before making the purchase.
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Old 02-26-2006, 01:35 AM   #17500
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New colors for the Slapmaster...
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:41 AM   #17501
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Jaybee- that looks awesome!! Who painted it??

While I'm here, I want to let you guys know I have some NIB parma 12th scale tires as well as some used that only have 2 runs each from the Snowbirds for sale in the sale forum. Cheap price, too! Here's the link- http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=103378

Sorry if that's spam, but I figured a lot fo you guys don't look in the classifieds very often.

Thanks,
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:06 AM   #17502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdav
who needs a fancy graph when you have PI. MMMMM PI.

tire dia x 3.14 / spur size x pinion = rollout

example

1.8 x 3.14 / 96 x 28 = 1.65 rollout

yea i know how to get roll out thanks for the info though.i was more interested in to a range for 12th as in why in my touring is the roll out in the .90 to 1.10 range and the 12th 1.29 to 1.81

thanks
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Old 02-26-2006, 11:17 AM   #17503
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The car is much lighter, there is much less rotational weight, and since the motors are only running off of 4 cells, there is less voltage going to the motor, thus less overall rpm.... So you need to gear a touch taller to make up for that. And because they are so much lighter, they dotn have a problem pulling the gear.

-Korey
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Old 02-26-2006, 12:07 PM   #17504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Jaybee- that looks awesome!! Who painted it??

A local named Wes here, he's on the painting forums.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:13 PM   #17505
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Default CarbonWorks

Here is the reply that I got back on the CarbonWorks Chassis.

"Every thing with the chassis is great fit & finish. Yes I would buy from Carbon Works again.The only differance in the chassis is mine has Associated steering mount holes (as the auction stated) so I used Associated part # 8435 Servo mount W/skrews. Instead of the CRC Universal Servo Mounts.Also the front width of the chassis is slightly narrower where the front arms mount,76.45mm Carbon Works to the 79.40mm CRC Chassis. But the front track remains the same width as stock as the arm mount holes are in the same locations.The chassis seemed to make the steering slightly quicker to respond I asume due to it being thicker than my stock chassis(old chassis 2.15mm thick acording to my digital caliper)the Carbon works is 2.52mm also based on my caliper.It took a little to get used to the extra responivenes and I used a little less front tracion compound for the second heat race. The first heat if I pitched the car too hard into the corners it would tracton roll.I have been racing R/C cars since 1990 and do highly recomend the Carbon Works Chassis. I hope this helps."

Sounds like a good thing. I'm going to snag one off of eBay later.
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