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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-23-2006, 08:44 AM   #17461
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Default which servo?

Hey guys, which cheap servo do u reccomend to use on my 12L3 car?

Thanks

Marcelo
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Old 02-23-2006, 08:53 AM   #17462
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I recomend the Airtronics 94145. it is super fast, super durable, and Airtronics customer service is second to none.
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Old 02-23-2006, 09:53 AM   #17463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piorc
Hey guys, which cheap servo do u reccomend to use on my 12L3 car?
Thanks
Marcelo
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
I recomend the Airtronics 94145. it is super fast, super durable, and Airtronics customer service is second to none.
I too, love the Airtronics 94145 servo as one of the best available. However, he asked for cheap, and the Airtronics 94145 is certainly not cheap. A cheap solution would be the Hitec HS-81MG servo.

Last edited by James35; 02-23-2006 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:02 AM   #17464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbecking
Just tested one of the packs voltages seem quite even at 6A,

at 1900ma
1.437
1.438
1.436
1.437

at 3800ma (peaked at 3850)
1.536
1.537
1.529
1.529

Similar story when discharging too at 20A so don't think it's a weak cell, don't know if those figures are good or bad though.

The only other thing is that I first noticed it in my first heat I had a very heavy impact at around the 5 minute mark, a marshall was stood in the middle of the track and I hit his foot at high speed and I noticed it after then but don't know if this is just a coincidence. I skimmed and changed brushes in motor to rule that out and tried different motor, the only other thing I could think of is the speed controller? Or is it just that the cells are old and tired? They are not dumping just going very soft around 5-6 minutes.
you need to test them as a single cell under a charge load to ID a weak cell

do the following,

set charger to say 10amps & 1 cell
charge 1 cell @ this for 10 secs, no more.
make note the volts

cell 1 = 1.49
cell 2 = 1.48
cell 3 = 1.61
cell 4 = 1.49

etc for a 6 cell pack

in the above example cell 3 would be suspect.
could cause false peaking etc and would have shorter runtime than the others if you managed to charge the pack

see more here
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Old 02-23-2006, 01:24 PM   #17465
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Airtronics 94145Z vs. Futaba S9602. Which one is better?
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Old 02-23-2006, 02:37 PM   #17466
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Go with the Airtronics. No contest.
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Old 02-23-2006, 02:48 PM   #17467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
Airtronics 94145Z vs. Futaba S9602. Which one is better?

Tried both (air and fut) and went to the jr line.

Airtronics failed to hold center after a while.
Futuba - no problems just liked jr servos in my sedans so I switched my 1/12 to the same brand.

jr3550 or jr3650 or for some the ko line

E
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Old 02-23-2006, 03:08 PM   #17468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Tried both (air and fut) and went to the jr line.

Airtronics failed to hold center after a while.
Futuba - no problems just liked jr servos in my sedans so I switched my 1/12 to the same brand.

jr3550 or jr3650 or for some the ko line

E
I really like the JR3550 too. I just switched to it from the Air 94145
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Old 02-23-2006, 03:13 PM   #17469
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how would i gear a c2 19t over a monster or how would i gear a 19t over a stock in general for a 1/12th scale?
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Old 02-23-2006, 03:17 PM   #17470
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I gear Monsters at 1.7 rollout. I gear 19 turns at about 1.9 rollout. Doesn't seem to make sense that you can gear a 19 turn higher than a 27 turn, but go try it. The 19 turns can handle it without turning brushes purple.
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Old 02-23-2006, 03:22 PM   #17471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I really like the JR3550 too. I just switched to it from the Air 94145

Just a tip-if your run a Helios and run a digital servo in your sedan-its easier to run a digital in your 12th too. Saves having to have to switch from H to N mode behind the module when you go between your cars.

I too really like the JR3550, but stopped when I forget one too many times to switch modes on my radio.

Ray
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Old 02-23-2006, 05:03 PM   #17472
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Is the JR 3550 a Metal gear servo? if not, how durable are the gears?
Thanks
J
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Old 02-23-2006, 05:11 PM   #17473
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I had the same servo question the other day and it was recommended to my by the 1/12 guy at my LHS to run the Futaba. Its not digital but i doesnt have the non centering problem as its rivals. Plus you cant beat the price. I paid 60 bucks for that servo.
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Old 02-23-2006, 05:55 PM   #17474
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I've been running the JR 3550 servos in my 1/12 Stock and Mod cars for a couple years now and haven't managed to hurt one yet. I'm not a hack but I do manage to get against the boards reasonably hard now and again. No earthly idea if they're metal gear or not as I've never had to open one. Mine are still nice and tight, no slop, center perfectly every time. They could both break tomorrow (well, we'll hope they don't--it's an "away" race...) and I'd STILL think I got great service out of 'em and would buy two more to replace 'em.

Scottrik
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Old 02-23-2006, 06:00 PM   #17475
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How do you guys usually set your timing for 4 cell 8 mins race?
And how about the spring tension?
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