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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 02-15-2006, 08:06 AM   #17386
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My buddy has a couple of older Corally cars. I believe they're the SP12G cars. They have the axle in them that takes clips to hold the wheels on with. Does anyone know if you can still buy these rims/tires or is there a conversion available?

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Old 02-15-2006, 08:38 AM   #17387
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Corally still uses the same axel design so you should be able to get the wheels for it.

Take a look at the thread for their new car the sp12x. Pretty nice.

I'm not as good as I could be, but I am a much improved version of what I once was.
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Old 02-15-2006, 11:08 AM   #17388
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Thanks for the tips guys. I managed to pick up a XXLFM receiver, GT7 SC, and a high speed/torque micro server. Looking forward to getting it put together.
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Old 02-15-2006, 11:14 AM   #17389
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Thanks for the information.

He's got approximately 5 cars that came from myself, and another buddy and has insane number of spare parts and pieces since my buddy and we both kept enough parts on hand since Corally couldn't easily be picked up at the LHS.
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Old 02-15-2006, 03:20 PM   #17390
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Default 19 turn question.............

I'm gonna bolt a 19 turn in my 12l4 - how diffenent is the gearing compared to stock - say using 1.77 rear tires and is a receiver pak needed?
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Old 02-15-2006, 04:11 PM   #17391
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Originally Posted by DLM2005
I'm gonna bolt a 19 turn in my 12l4 - how diffenent is the gearing compared to stock - say using 1.77 rear tires and is a receiver pak needed?
For spec 19t motors you will need to gear way up from stock. Rollout above 50mm. You don't need a reciever pack with decent batteries.
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Old 02-15-2006, 07:39 PM   #17392
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Send a message via AIM to Sunshine86

Due to the lack of 1/10 on-road racing in my area, I'm thinking about getting into 1/12 to satisfy my on-road cravings. First off, I'm trying to decide between the L4 and the CRC Bloody Knife...any insight? The second thing I'm wondering about is running a brushless motor in a 1/12 car. I plan on buying one for my B4/TC3 and switching it amongst my cars but is it a bad idea for a begginer such as my self to be running something that powerful? If so what would you reccomend? Is the GTB too large/heavy for 1/12 scale applications? And finnaly, what will I need in addition to the standard radio gear, ESC, motor, ect.?
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Old 02-15-2006, 09:46 PM   #17393
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Yeah i wouldnt do that if i was you. 1/12 is plenty fast on its own in comparison to a 1/10 with the same motor so you'll have tons of speed to get use to. Aside from that, the chasis of a 1/12 is not as reinforced as it is on a 1/10 touring car, so it is not uncommon to split a chasis with a good hit that a 1/10 would normally stand up too. So get use to the 1/12 first. These cars react much quicker and its a different driving style to get use to.

Thats my 2 cents.
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Old 02-16-2006, 05:38 AM   #17394
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If i remember right the GTB has a fan on it. If so it is too high to fit under the body of a 1/12 scale unless someone on here has found a way. I know several guys at my local track are using the Sphere system and the other Novak controllers though without any problems.

You could go ahead and get the controller for brushless that allows you to run brushed motors. Just get your feet wet in stock and then try the brushless system.

As for the rest of the gear, smaller is better. There is not much room for equipement and weight is a factor. Try to place as much of it as close to the centerline as possible and go back a few pagers on here and see how some of the guys have routed their wires. It can make a difference in handling as I have gone back and rewired my car and have noticed an improvement.

I'll give a plug for the CRC T Fource as your first car. Others will caution against a tbar car because the tbars can break in a sidways hit. This is true, but I have seen too many guys new to 12th that struggle with a link car because of the learning curve on setup. When I see a new guy with a T Fource, setup using the side springs, they are much better and struggle less with handling.

I have had my car for two years and have not broken a tbar yet. It's not that I dont hit anything as I have had some bad ones and broken other parts, but the tbar is still in good shape.

Whatever car you get, upgrade the front axels to titanium and spend time making sure the front suspension is free and smooth.

Good luck.

I'm not as good as I could be, but I am a much improved version of what I once was.
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:09 AM   #17395
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Originally Posted by Greg45231
If i remember right the GTB has a fan on it. If so it is too high to fit under the body of a 1/12 scale unless someone on here has found a way.
Yes the GTB comes with a fan but it isn't necessary for 4-cell 1/12 work and is EASILY removed. You DO have to leave the heat sink on though as it is potted to the components (FETs?) underneath. Brushless motors are a little tricky to get installed as they don't taper at the endbell end like brushed motors do--it's not unusual to have to remove the top or bottom pod plate to get it in there. No big deal though because once it's in it's in--no where NEAR as frequent motor maintenance as brushed mod motors. Wire routing also becomes a bit tricky as there are three power leads to the motor (instead of the normal two) PLUS the sensor bundle. I found with the GTB/Velociti setup in my Carpet Knife there was exactly one (of six possible) motor "clock" positions that would work.

As indicated above, if you aren't experienced with 1/12 racing there is no reason TO jump into mod and a whole bunch of reasons NOT to. Get a good stock motor and enjoy the track time that 8-minute heats provide!

btw, I've got a SWEET brand new unused Quad-12 for sale in the buy-sell-trade for something under half of what it cost you to build one yourself. See it at Brand new PRC Quad-12 roller

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Old 02-16-2006, 06:27 AM   #17396
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The GTB is a little heavier than I would like in a 12th car but you can fit everything in pretty easily. Because 4 cell has about 30% less power (watts) than 6 cell, you don't need the fan.

If you put the receiver, personal, and power cap on the right side of the car, the balance isn't quite as bad but it's still a little off.

A Parma speed8 will clear the speedo but there isn't too much room to spare. Also, the pod does some really funny things if you tie all 3 wires to the brace on the t-bar like some are doing. It's best to just let the wires float around.
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:23 AM   #17397
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Where can i find some universal or adjustable servo mounts?
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:29 AM   #17398
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Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Where can i find some universal or adjustable servo mounts?
CRC Universal Servo Mount
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:32 AM   #17399
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Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
So are you saying that the effects are much like the shock angles on a 1/10 touring car? where the 'straigter' the angle the more agressive the car reacts on that end? Sorry for the newb questions.
All this stuff is very confusing and everybody has his own theory. The best thing you can do, is try both extreme settings (biggest and smallest angle) on the track and see for yourself.

My guess is that parallel tubes give quicker response and less overall steering than angled. Faster direction changes in S-turns, but less steering in U-turns. That is because they prevent the car from leaning.
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:36 AM   #17400
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The ones I am running work pretty good. they are the Calandra aluminum ones.
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