R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-30-2002, 03:58 PM   #1726
Tech Champion
 
Kevin K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,754
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Kevin K Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin K
Default

Ok thanks for the help guys.....now when you wired it up did you just turn the swith on for the REC. pack and leave the switch off for the ESC? I know this is how its normally done but did not know forsure if it was the same way with the GM V12.
__________________
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....14th year running 2016/17!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
Kevin K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2002, 05:29 PM   #1727
Tech Fanatic
 
darnold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bolingbrook, IL
Posts: 906
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Kev- Will be running at Venture Lord willing Fri. night, Robk should be coming out also. Maybe i will come out again on Sat. Robk, Juch's and i talked about maybe going to Trackside on Sund. i would just run a couple of times before they start racing like last time unless you guys would like to run some mod.

Regarding the rx pack James used the GM with an rx i think so he would know but i'm pretty sure that it's the same as an LRP which is the speedo off and the rx on. Other than the extra 10sec of runtime the rx can really help some speedos like the LRP to keep the voltage up during the entire run. i ran for a while last year without one but put the rx pack in at Oktoberfast and noticed more punch from around the 4min mark on so every since last Oct. i've been running the rx pack. The GM may be similar whereas the Cyclone actually seems to run better without an rx pack.

RC nitro- SMC GP3300's are great and the durability of the cell is great so i would get a couple of those packs. UMH are great too along with HV's so you really can't go wrong but i think you will get more cycles (charge/discharge). Charge at 6amps for the GP 3300's and 6-7amps for the HV's and 5amps for the UMH's. DO NOT TRAY THE GP3300's but you can gain some voltage while losing some runtime by traying the HV's. i personally think that runtime is most important because you do get to a point where too much loss in runtime means an unusable pack and the small voltage that you get is only most important on a national level in the stock class it seems. On the damper tubes you probably want to run the SpeedMerchant/Trinity types for the Trinity/Speedmerchant, Associated car and the CRC types for the 6pk and CarpetKife and they seem to be on the new Yokomo and experimental Corally cars as well. Fitment may be more the key and the larger CRC's have to use thicker damper fluid than the smaller Trinity/SpeedMerchants so consider that also.

ActionRC- Glad to hear it, the guys here have really put some great info and opinions on hear and most of them can answer most any question you have and that helps us all when we share our thoughts and experiences.

DragonS- Hey dude how are things going? i plan on trying a couple of sets. maybe they will be a little more planted than a "double gray" which is a firmer gray like a Jaco but not as planted as a normal TRC gray and thus have a little more corner speed on high bite tracks while still feeling planted. Josh or Dieter would be some people to ask for sure. Will i see you at Cleveland?

nnick- something else to go with the stuff you've already been told is to consider just buying the older chassis plate, everything from your 02' edition should bolt on i would think that way you have the updated rear pod, 3bolt tires, and top suspension plate. i would also recommend using the link front end instead of the plastic one because of the ability to more readily adjust roll center and camber gain for extra corner speed.

Stevie- Sorry it took me so long to respond although i'm not an expert. LOL! Danny of SMC has the regimine on his website but the standard way is to charge NO LOWER than 6amps for HV"S because if you do they will be slow. For mod charge at 6amps and for stock charge at 7amps. For delta peak on 4cell packs try .05 which is about 12mv/cell for the Novak charger. i used a little lower delta peak on my Novak between 9mv/cell - 11mv/cell. These batteries like the GP's like to be warm to hot when you race them so the closer to your race they finish charging the better but i would only repeak if they sit for more than 10min before you race. i wouldn't equalize them initially but you should discharge them after every run as a pack down to 3.60v for maximum performance. Run them a couple of times per pack each race/practice day but try to let them rest between race/practice days for 3days or so to help longevity. Expect to lose around 30sec of your runtime after the first 20charges/runs in my opinion and by then you may want to start traying them to keep the IR's down and voltage up. That's another reason why i like the GP's (3300's) so much at this stage because they seem to hold their numbers for a longer period of time.
darnold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2002, 05:32 PM   #1728
Tech Fanatic
 
darnold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bolingbrook, IL
Posts: 906
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

RCNitro- that was "i think you will get a few more cycles....from the GP3300's" because they seem at this point to hold their numbers longer but people have experienced this with some of their UMH's and HV's as well.
darnold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2002, 06:12 PM   #1729
Tech Regular
 
Dragon Slayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: tx
Posts: 358
Send a message via Yahoo to Dragon Slayer
Default

Darnold.....I wont be able to make Cleveland(as bad as i want to).....I'm looking for the Snowbirds now!!!!!Thanks for the commment on the Granite's.....our track got the Carpet Regionals...coming up in 2 weeks.
Dragon Slayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2002, 07:22 PM   #1730
Tech Apprentice
 
Stevie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: england/NOTTS
Posts: 85
Default

darnold.
thanx a lot for the charging info..
cheers
stevie
Stevie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2002, 07:54 PM   #1731
Tech Champion
 
Kevin K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,754
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Kevin K Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin K
Default

Tigger....thanks for the input.....I will be at Venture on saturday cant make it friday have to work. Sunday me and Jucha are going up to Trackside so if I dont see you saturday I will see you sunday maybe. And Im not sure on the running mod yet maybe later....give me a couple weeks of solid 12th scale then lets battle it out.
__________________
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....14th year running 2016/17!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
Kevin K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 05:54 AM   #1732
Tech Regular
 
RC Nitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NN Virginia
Posts: 432
Default

darnould: Thanks for the great info. I ran the 1/12 last night for the first time That was great! Know now why you sause the rear real well as I did not the first time and the car was way loose in the rear. I do have the .075 plate and the middle washer in the plate. Car was much better with saused rears and dual rate reduced 30% from full throw. I just e-mailed the track owner to ask if we could run 3300's. Right now he is not letting the AROCR classes or the ROAR TC class run 3300's. I want the GP's as my packs are old. Thanks for the recomendation.
I will look into the tubes. I have the tri shock setup now. The local oval racers that ran the cars told me to remove the tweak screws and just use the shocks. Is this good idea?? On damper tubes are they fixed or adjustable like preload on shocks? TIA

Question for 12L owners. Is the diff real fragile?? I er hit the wall a few times last night The rear stealth diff ring broke.... Is this normal? Is going to larger diff rings better?!? Thanks
RC Nitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 06:21 AM   #1733
Tech Fanatic
 
mike5009's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 912
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to mike5009
Default

rcnitro the diff it self is pretty strong. the outter bearing on the diff side will get damaged if you tap a board on that side causing the diff to feel gritty. suggest having a few flanged bearings on hand for the larger events. the diff ring should have not broken. the only time i have seen this is when tc-3 diff rings are used. they are a little thinner. hope this helps

mike
mike5009 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 07:27 AM   #1734
Tech Regular
 
RC Nitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NN Virginia
Posts: 432
Default

Mike, Thanks. I bought the car used and replaced all the rear flanged bearings. All 3 were bad. I have 2 extra's right now. The diff rings I replaced with the # listed on the manual. There is a chunk missing on the new ring motor side I will not get to work on the car till friday. Trick or treat tonight with my little girl so I will be busy. Thankfully the track stocks the 1/4x3/8 flanged bearings. the track walls are hard wood so you take a serious lick when you hit on the wall. Will the TC3 notched rings work?? They have these on the wall at the track and the 1/10 scale for the oval cars.
RC Nitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 07:44 AM   #1735
Tech Fanatic
 
mike5009's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 912
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to mike5009
Default

rcnitro the tc-3 rings will work but if you lhs has niftec or irs opt for them insted
mike5009 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 09:54 AM   #1736
Tech Regular
 
RC Nitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NN Virginia
Posts: 432
Default

Thanks Mike. All the stuff in stock is 1/10 scale not 1/12. I will check when I get to the tack
RC Nitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 01:02 PM   #1737
Tech Fanatic
 
darnold's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bolingbrook, IL
Posts: 906
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

RC Nitro- if you are running on asphalt run the tubes and you can take the tweak screws out for some extra rear traction. If you are running on carpet keep the tweak screws in. Are you using the springs on the side shocks? The springs should act as the tweak system but i don't think they are as consistent and accurate on a 12th scale as the tweak screws are plus the side shocks are heavier. The tubes are fixed although you could do some adjustment to their length although i wouldn't recommend it. All in all i would use the tubes and Trinity Purple stuff in them if you are racing on asphalt and Trinity Red Stuff in them if racing on carpet.

Kev- maybe i will see you on Sat. and we could run mod there for fun a couple of practice runs. Have you or anyone else on the forum tried that new Trinity Stock Motor and if so what do you guys think of it?

Everyone- Hope racing is going well, has anyone tried the new TRC Granite rears yet and if so what did they think of them? Also, has anyone tried the new Schumacher 64pitch Titanium Pinions? Are they quiet because i'm thinking about getting a set.

DragonS- May not make Snowbirds for the first time, will have to see especially since i was planning on going to New England for the January Blast USTC race.

Jason Chang- do you want to go to practice at the facility 10min from the Cleveland track on the Mon. before Cleveland? If so give me a call by this Sat. i'm staying with Jari so i will be calling him today as well. How's your 12th scale going?
darnold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 01:39 PM   #1738
Tech Master
 
jason cheng's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,937
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

darnold i am not going to cleavland tis year.
jason cheng is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2002, 06:05 PM   #1739
Tech Champion
 
Kevin K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: In a land of mini-mighty mental giants
Posts: 8,754
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Kevin K Send a message via Yahoo to Kevin K
Default

Dave if you are going there on saturday dont forget that they are on a new schedule and they open at 10 or 12 and race at 4. I picked up two of the monsters on saturday and have yet to run them. I will run them this weekend and I will let you know how they work. I got my rec pack cells today 120mah NiMh same size as the 50mah NiCad along with another pack of sanyo 3300 hv's so I will have 3 packs to race 12th scale with now. Now all I need is to get a new servo and Im ready for saturday and I will pick that up tomorrow.
__________________
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....14th year running 2016/17!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
Kevin K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2002, 04:22 AM   #1740
Tech Regular
 
RC Nitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: NN Virginia
Posts: 432
Default

darnould: Thanks, running on carpet so I will keep the screws. Yes the shocks have springs aon the sides. Car was the oval car that was converted to on-raod. Oval uses 3 vs micro shocks. The 2 side ones in leu of the damper plate and the tweek screws. I was talking to the oval guys last night and that is what they told me. I think I need to get some damper tubes for the consistancy. Thanks for the info.
RC Nitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:38 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0