R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-11-2006, 11:41 PM   #17356
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Thanks GrandeGixxer, I'll check them out.
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 02:49 AM   #17357
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
I'm in the search for some new batteries. At the moment I am still using gp3300's, but they are pretty much dead right now.
I heard some stories about the Intellect batteries, that the 3800 has a higher voltage and more punch compared to the 4200, is this true?
Which one is better for 1/12 with a 19T motor?

Thanks
I have 2 packs of 3800. They were very fast the first 20runs, then they started to fall off. Now after about 50-70runs they hold about 2000mAh, with almost zero punch.
My next batteries are GP 3700's.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 02:51 AM   #17358
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
I have a CRC 3.2r. It comes witht the 100t spur. I thought I'd look into other options for spurs. I run stock. What brand spurs are good for this car? Does CRC make other sizes? What do you guys use in your CRC's
Kimbrough is a safe bet. It's all I use.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 07:45 AM   #17359
Tech Addict
 
Formula1fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Buckeye City!
Posts: 691
Default

I have never experimented with T-bar and after three straight weeks of getting my tail absolutely handed to me I need to do something. I race on three different tracks and they all have three different grip levels. One has no grove and is real loose, med bite and the one has grip that make the car feel like a slot car. Which t-bar is for low and which is better for high.
Formula1fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 09:00 AM   #17360
Tech Master
 
dakrat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: 96th ABW
Posts: 1,581
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I have never experimented with T-bar and after three straight weeks of getting my tail absolutely handed to me I need to do something. I race on three different tracks and they all have three different grip levels. One has no grove and is real loose, med bite and the one has grip that make the car feel like a slot car. Which t-bar is for low and which is better for high.
thinner t-bar will give you more overall traction. but breaks easy in a collision
dakrat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 09:07 AM   #17361
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
I have never experimented with T-bar and after three straight weeks of getting my tail absolutely handed to me I need to do something. I race on three different tracks and they all have three different grip levels. One has no grove and is real loose, med bite and the one has grip that make the car feel like a slot car. Which t-bar is for low and which is better for high.
Thin T bars for low grip. Thicker T bars for high grip.

Try Team Power Push http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html for thicker T bars. For anything below .070, you will have to use Associated's .063 T bars. Siva Racing Concepts has spring steel T bars and their medium stiff model is just a little stiffer than the Associated .063. I have run this T bar, outdoors, for the past two years with great success.
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 09:12 AM   #17362
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Thin T bars for low grip. Thicker T bars for high grip.

Try Team Power Push http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html for thicker T bars. For anything below .070, you will have to use Associated's .063 T bars. Siva Racing Concepts has spring steel T bars and their medium stiff model is just a little stiffer than the Associated .063. I have run this T bar, outdoors, for the past two years with great success.
That should read - "Silva Racing Concepts." I don't think they have a website but you can get them through IRS at...

http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 02:35 PM   #17363
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 100
Default

Ok, I have read through a couple pages of the forum trying to find an answer to my question. I run mostly on carpet and I am trying to decide between a link car and a t-bar car. What advantage does either offer on carpet or is it all preference?
automator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 03:59 PM   #17364
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

T bar cars were looking real good at the snowbirds.i never tried a link car on carpet but alot of guys seem to really like them.you should talk to some guys at your track that run them and see which style suits the surface you race on.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 04:39 PM   #17365
Tech Addict
 
IslandBwoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 602
Default

Are there any setup tips you guys can give me on setting my center shock? Right now there is very little travel util it bottoms out. Seems like i should have a lot more trave in the shock. Maybe i should cut the ball cups shorter????
IslandBwoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 07:03 PM   #17366
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 20
Default Wayne JR ,TEAM SCREAM @STRONGSVILLE HOBBY

STOP SPAMMING YOUR BATTERIES

Last edited by Speedo; 02-13-2006 at 05:07 PM.
JR@SHS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 07:26 PM   #17367
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 100
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
T bar cars were looking real good at the snowbirds.i never tried a link car on carpet but alot of guys seem to really like them.you should talk to some guys at your track that run them and see which style suits the surface you race on.
It's kinda hard to tell which car to get because from pictures from Cleveland seemed alot of CRC guys were running the 3.2R and then from pictures from the Snowbirds you see alot of the same guys running the T-fource. So, I was just wondering why the change or what's the deal?
automator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 07:58 PM   #17368
Tech Adept
 
G Ace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 211
Send a message via AIM to G Ace Send a message via Yahoo to G Ace
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by automator
It's kinda hard to tell which car to get because from pictures from Cleveland seemed alot of CRC guys were running the 3.2R and then from pictures from the Snowbirds you see alot of the same guys running the T-fource. So, I was just wondering why the change or what's the deal?
There is only 1 driver I know of that switched from a Carpet Knife to a T-Fource, and after Jeff Dayger's awesome performance this weekend, I know there will be more T-Fource drivers who are going to switch to the Knife.

P.S. is it just me, or are the "Wayne Gerber/ Team Scream" free ads getting pretty annoying?

If you want to advertise your company, why don't you buy a banner ad at the top of the page like everybody else?
G Ace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 08:57 PM   #17369
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default radio set up tip

Guys,
Here's something interesting that a buddy and I stumbled across recently that I want to share. I don't use dual rate very much, but my buddy does and discovered a what appeared to be a problem. When turning his d/r down, he found that the end points of the steering limits did not follow proportionally. For instance, if a 12th scale car could turn 2 foot circles at max steering in both directions and then you were to turn the d/r down, you might find that the car might turn a 3 foot circle one way and 4 foot circle the other direction.

Well this seemed like an obvious flaw in the radio. Who would want non-proportional side to side d/r like that? I have always found that when I set my radio up that my end points are not always the same side to side (90% vs 75%), but once set, the car always acted correctly. So thinking this was odd, I thought that I would ask our radio control Team Manager this question.

It turns out, that if you center a servo with "trim" to achieve the mechanical center that you are looking for in your servo arm/saver... you will have uneven end points and this problem will effect the way your d/r acts as you reduce it!

The correct way to set up your servo is to find the least amount of off center to mount your arm/saver and correct it with "sub-trim" to the nearest amount of mechanical center that you can. But first, you must make sure that your steering trim is at "zero". Make sure that your d/r is maxed out. Then set your epa's. You might find that your epa's are much closer percentage-wise then before. With any car, you will have to check all the steering links for equal lengths and a proper length steering rack link. Then use the "trim" to fine tune your car on the track. Now, your d/r will reduce proportionally correct all the way! Maybe as a rule, if you get steering trim more then 5% off of center, you may want to fix some of that through sub-trim. For some reason, the software that is in today's radios do not treat trim and sub-trim as the same, especially involving dual rate.

Check it out, it's worth a look!

Brian
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2006, 09:30 PM   #17370
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Are there any setup tips you guys can give me on setting my center shock? Right now there is very little travel util it bottoms out. Seems like i should have a lot more trave in the shock. Maybe i should cut the ball cups shorter????
Take the wheels off the car and put it on a flat surface. Pop one end of the shock off its ball stud and let it extend to full length. It should be only slightly longer than the distance between the ball studs, maybe a millimeter or two. If it's much longer you'll need to shorten one or both ball cups. You want a little bit of droop at the pod when the shock is fully extended, but not much.

D
__________________
MARSHAL!!
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 5 (2 members and 3 guests)
Danny-b23, Hugh Jazz
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:09 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0