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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-11-2006, 03:45 AM   #17341
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Default Dynamic front end slop.

I built my L4 front end per Mark Payne's excellent blog sight. However at a recent race my car was a complete handfull. After careful inspection of the front end my LHS owner pointed out that my steering block was not secure on the king pin. He says the steering block should be snug. Mark says, "It is also important for the king pin to move freely through the steering block. I use the optional Delrin CRC block. This is more accurate than the stock Associated molding." I took this to mean that I did want the block to move along the king pin. Did i misunderstand?
The only change was I used some much smaller tires than what i am use to. I could only get the front to 4mm because I used the Assoc. lower arms and not the IRS. I kept the rear pod at 3.5.
The rear end wanted to drive past the front end even after backing off the shock and not putting a stipe of Paragon on the inside.
Am I experiencing something common with running smaller diameter tires, or did I jack up the front end?
Kev
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Old 02-11-2006, 12:19 PM   #17342
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[QUOTE=odpurple]Now Doug Powell (PRC) has made a 2.5mm carpet chassis for the car which he calls the "Sledge". It's still carpet season here so I couldn't resist. When Doug makes a chassis the parts always fit perfectly and the material is of excellent quaility, no surprise there. [QUOTE]

Just an FYI--I have JUST listed a brand-spanking-new Quad-12 "team" (2.5mm) chassis for sale at Quad-12 roller fs on RC Tech . This is unquestionably the nicest chassis I've ever seen but I'm in the position of not having time to give it the sorting attention it deserves as we're in the stretch run of our championship (and I'm seemingly "stuck" in second place...).

Best,

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Old 02-11-2006, 12:40 PM   #17343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
I built my L4 front end per Mark Payne's excellent blog sight. However at a recent race my car was a complete handfull. After careful inspection of the front end my LHS owner pointed out that my steering block was not secure on the king pin. He says the steering block should be snug. Mark says, "It is also important for the king pin to move freely through the steering block. I use the optional Delrin CRC block. This is more accurate than the stock Associated molding." I took this to mean that I did want the block to move along the king pin. Did i misunderstand?
Kev
Some people feel the kingpin MUST move freely through the steering block, others feel it is ok (or in this case, MUST BE) snug. My experience is that as long as the the steering block does not wiggle on the kingpin and the steering turns freely it does not matter. The steering block should always move with the kingpin, so there should be no need for the block to slide up and down by itself.
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Old 02-11-2006, 12:44 PM   #17344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Ace
Some people feel the kingpin MUST move freely through the steering block, others feel it is ok (or in this case, MUST BE) snug. My experience is that as long as the the steering block does not wiggle on the kingpin and the steering turns freely it does not matter. The steering block should always move with the kingpin, so there should be no need for the block to slide up and down by itself.
Good one, I am a newb too and I had the same question. A guy today at the track was saying to ream the steering block so it moves freely.
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Old 02-11-2006, 12:51 PM   #17345
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When I look at most pro's cars with strut front suspension, they usually don't use the graphite cross brace, why? Also on the older strut front end , there is a aluminium cross beam, what's wrong with the cross beam or brace?
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:24 PM   #17346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caveman
When I look at most pro's cars with strut front suspension, they usually don't use the graphite cross brace, why? Also on the older strut front end , there is a aluminium cross beam, what's wrong with the cross beam or brace?
The front brace can reduce steering. When running modified on a high grip track you usually need as much steering as you can get. You are more likely to see people using front end braces on large outdoor tracks and in stock, where less steering is needed.
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:29 PM   #17347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Well, CRC did a pretty good job of that; at least they did on my own CRC car.
I was only teasing because I saw you post pictures of so many different brand cars.

I secretly love to scratch-build and modify parts for my cars too. I will have to take some pics of my one-off narrow chassis Carpet Knife.
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:42 PM   #17348
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I'm in the search for some new batteries. At the moment I am still using gp3300's, but they are pretty much dead right now.
I heard some stories about the Intellect batteries, that the 3800 has a higher voltage and more punch compared to the 4200, is this true?
Which one is better for 1/12 with a 19T motor?

Thanks
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Old 02-11-2006, 01:54 PM   #17349
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Default King Pin In the Block

Hi Kev

Mark Payne here....

Well.. I do ream the block so the king pin is free to move in the block. However the block does not slop around. If I flex the front wheel against the axle (trying to increase and decrease the camber by force)... the only play I feel is in the wheel bearings.

My thinking is that if the king pin sticks in the block... how will I ever shim it correctly? If the king pin moves up on one side while racing and does not return due to friction in the block then we are left with more preload in the spring on that side.

Hope that helps

Mark


Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
I built my L4 front end per Mark Payne's excellent blog sight. However at a recent race my car was a complete handfull. After careful inspection of the front end my LHS owner pointed out that my steering block was not secure on the king pin. He says the steering block should be snug. Mark says, "It is also important for the king pin to move freely through the steering block. I use the optional Delrin CRC block. This is more accurate than the stock Associated molding." I took this to mean that I did want the block to move along the king pin. Did i misunderstand?
The only change was I used some much smaller tires than what i am use to. I could only get the front to 4mm because I used the Assoc. lower arms and not the IRS. I kept the rear pod at 3.5.
The rear end wanted to drive past the front end even after backing off the shock and not putting a stipe of Paragon on the inside.
Am I experiencing something common with running smaller diameter tires, or did I jack up the front end?
Kev
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:18 PM   #17350
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Thats what common sense dictates.... I was trying to follow your guide Mark and I had a really hard time following the part about the shimming cause the steering block has such a tight fit with the kingpin.... I was getting different results all the time.
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Old 02-11-2006, 02:54 PM   #17351
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Hey Tekin. I am running some Br00d 3800's and they rock. I am getting ready to buy some batts from Team Kellner. Fred is a fast, honest, local racer here and all the guys running his cells are really happy with them. Dont be thrown by the 30/35 amp discharge rates. Do the math and they are the same.
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:16 PM   #17352
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I have a CRC 3.2r. It comes witht the 100t spur. I thought I'd look into other options for spurs. I run stock. What brand spurs are good for this car? Does CRC make other sizes? What do you guys use in your CRC's
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:48 PM   #17353
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Quote:
Yes it is a custom chassis... Brian Bodine cranks these out. It's a Slapmaster 2.3
I saw those for the first at the birds last year. I'm not sure if they guy you are speaking of is the same one i spoke to but he did say it was a development thing at the time. I guess things are going well.
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Old 02-11-2006, 09:30 PM   #17354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Ace
I was only teasing because I saw you post pictures of so many different brand cars.

I secretly love to scratch-build and modify parts for my cars too. I will have to take some pics of my one-off narrow chassis Carpet Knife.
That's what I thought (well I wasn't sure because of the smilie face). But it got me thinkin I haven't built a CRC car in a long time-I think I'm due!

Please do post some pictures of your car, the best thing about this thread to me is seeing how other guys do stuff.

Now, which CRC should I build?
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Old 02-11-2006, 10:07 PM   #17355
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It should be a "CRC ala OD"

Missed ya today.

Bill
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