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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-31-2006, 01:40 AM   #17191
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G Ace... That 12ls looks just like my 12lw that I'm updating as we speak. the 12lw did have you mount the body posts on the first screw of the arm block,but the chassis still had the nubs on the front of the chassis. I bought the car in 90 or 91 and still have the manual,LOL. it came with the 2 bolt hub. I was however able to get a 12l3 axle to fit quite nicely so that I now can use any 3 hole tire.

Grub..according to the manual, the 12lw came with .022 springs if I remember correctly. i can look into it again if you'd like. i could also meet you over at hobbytown in the hub if you want to take a look at the manual. Some of the text has flaked off, but it's 95% there. And yes, I plan to race this badboy..for fun. Let me know--Al
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Old 01-31-2006, 08:21 AM   #17192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big al
G Ace... That 12ls looks just like my 12lw that I'm updating as we speak. the 12lw did have you mount the body posts on the first screw of the arm block,but the chassis still had the nubs on the front of the chassis. I bought the car in 90 or 91 and still have the manual,LOL. it came with the 2 bolt hub. I was however able to get a 12l3 axle to fit quite nicely so that I now can use any 3 hole tire.

Grub..according to the manual, the 12lw came with .022 springs if I remember correctly. i can look into it again if you'd like. i could also meet you over at hobbytown in the hub if you want to take a look at the manual. Some of the text has flaked off, but it's 95% there. And yes, I plan to race this badboy..for fun. Let me know--Al
That chassis was not even released until the end of 1992, so there is no way you could have bought one (from Associated) in 1990 or 1991. Even the people who raced for Team Associated at the time did not have that chassis until the 1992 Cleveland race. 2 friends of mine who raced for Associated at the time got the chassis and the new front end as prototypes a short time before Cleveland. Tony Neisinger, Masami Hirosaka and Mike Blackstock were the top 3 at the 1992 IFMAR 12th scale worlds that was held in Grand Rapids in the summer of 1992, and all 3 of them were running block front ends with flat-nosed chassis.

The chassis was first released as an option part for the 12LW so you could install the (then new) new front end on it. The new chassis was probably added to the catalog for the 12LW before the 12LS was released as a kit.

The pinned diff rings and the thrust bearing cone/wingnut are also aftermarket parts that were sold by Bud Bartos.
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Old 01-31-2006, 09:47 AM   #17193
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Well, considering I bought the car 14 years ago, I don't think you should begrudge me a year. '92 still sounds about right. I reviewed the manual just now and it shows a chassis without the front nubs,but the kit included a chassis with the nubs (running change I suppose). I never upgraded the chassis, Just bought it on a whim when I was a kid,couldn't drive it and put it in a rc "leftovers" box. only just recently (last month or so) did I remember I had it and decided to give it another go. I was pleasantly suprised to see that the car was somewhat similar enough to the new cars to be somewhat updated.--AL
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:15 AM   #17194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big al
Well, considering I bought the car 14 years ago, I don't think you should begrudge me a year. '92 still sounds about right. I reviewed the manual just now and it shows a chassis without the front nubs,but the kit included a chassis with the nubs (running change I suppose). I never upgraded the chassis, Just bought it on a whim when I was a kid,couldn't drive it and put it in a rc "leftovers" box. only just recently (last month or so) did I remember I had it and decided to give it another go. I was pleasantly suprised to see that the car was somewhat similar enough to the new cars to be somewhat updated.--AL
Sorry if I sounded like a jerk. I was just giving specific details in case the guy that owns it is really that interested in what he has.

I was thinking the same thing; the chassis was probably a "running change" at the end of the RC12LW production run. If AE ran out of flat chassis before the LS was released they probably put the new chassis in the LW kits. I know a lot of Associated kits have major changes made to them during there production run (The electric TC3 comes to mind).

Because 12th scale pan cars use a solid axle and a very minimal suspension, there have not been any major sweeping technological changes in their design over the past 15-20 years. Mike Dumas was running the "old school" block front end on his Speedmerchant car when he won Cleveland in 2005. It is pretty amazing that car parts that were introduced 25 years ago can still be competitive on a national level.

In the hands of the right driver (and with enough spare parts ) an old 12LW could still be raced competitively today. You would probably have to make the battery slots a lot bigger to fit the dimensions of the new “Sub-C” batteries that have almost 4 times the capacity of the original “Sub-C” batteries that the chassis was originally designed for…

I don't know if anybody has posted this link before, but this is a cool site if you want to see some historical 12th scale cars. http://www.rc-car-museum.de/1_12_Mod...ller_welt.html

You can Babblefish the German and the pictures are pretty cool.
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:38 AM   #17195
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What is the max rear tire width under roar rules?
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:57 AM   #17196
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As per http://www.roarracing.com/downloads/2006rulebook.pdf
page 46 article 8.9.3.1

max tire width is 38mm
overall car width is 172mm

M.
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:58 AM   #17197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
What is the max rear tire width under roar rules?
"Give a man a fish, he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish, he eats for life."
You can find the rules, approved bodies, approved motors, and approved batteries at http://www.roarracing.com/
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:23 AM   #17198
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Can someone tell me where can I purchase some CRC "High Roller" 38 mm (HR-38) wheels, I just need the wheels/rims cause I have 2 set of donuts that I would like to mount them....

Most of the store (local or online) are selling the rim/tires combo......I would like to know does CRC is the only place sell the wheels or there are places that sell the wheels alone.....thanks
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:34 AM   #17199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Can someone tell me where can I purchase some CRC "High Roller" 38 mm (HR-38) wheels, I just need the wheels/rims cause I have 2 set of donuts that I would like to mount them....

Most of the store (local or online) are selling the rim/tires combo......I would like to know does CRC is the only place sell the wheels or there are places that sell the wheels alone.....thanks
Distributors and retailers should be able to order the wheels.

2171 - High Roller 38 (HR-38) Rear Wheel - pr

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7718868

2170 - High Roller 38 (HR-38) Front Wheel-pr

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7718867

Last edited by G Ace; 01-31-2006 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:39 AM   #17200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Ace
Distributors retailers should be able to order the wheels.

2171 - High Roller 38 (HR-38) Rear Wheel - pr

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7718868

2170 - High Roller 38 (HR-38) Front Wheel-pr

http://teamcrc.com/crc/modules.php?n...prodID=7718867
Thanks for the info, I do know their links at CRC.......just want to make sure there are no other online store sell those.......I have placed a order from my LHS since last year November.....as of today, still has none in stock, I cannot really make these ppl make the call and they claimed they ordered since November...it is kinda like his word vs my word....oh well, I order from CRC direct then, thanks.
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:48 AM   #17201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big al
G Ace... That 12ls looks just like my 12lw that I'm updating as we speak. the 12lw did have you mount the body posts on the first screw of the arm block,but the chassis still had the nubs on the front of the chassis. I bought the car in 90 or 91 and still have the manual,LOL. it came with the 2 bolt hub. I was however able to get a 12l3 axle to fit quite nicely so that I now can use any 3 hole tire.

Grub..according to the manual, the 12lw came with .022 springs if I remember correctly. i can look into it again if you'd like. i could also meet you over at hobbytown in the hub if you want to take a look at the manual. Some of the text has flaked off, but it's 95% there. And yes, I plan to race this badboy..for fun. Let me know--Al
Chech this out http://www.streamload.com/TeamAssoci...g_12l.12lw.pdf it shows both chassies. I think it depended on when you got your kit (i.e. early production or later) as it has a insert showing the old skool (ya I know) front end and the newer style. Thanks Al for the offer, but most of the info I needed was on this link.

Chris...
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Old 01-31-2006, 12:51 PM   #17202
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Thanks guys. Does anyone know of where to get axle shims. Say in 2mm-4mm widths. My axle is 174mm, just a touch too wide.
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Old 01-31-2006, 02:21 PM   #17203
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CRC, Buds, and Associated all make axle shims. I think CRC has 2 thicknesses.
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Old 01-31-2006, 03:57 PM   #17204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Can someone tell me where can I purchase some CRC "High Roller" 38 mm (HR-38) wheels, I just need the wheels/rims cause I have 2 set of donuts that I would like to mount them....

Most of the store (local or online) are selling the rim/tires combo......I would like to know does CRC is the only place sell the wheels or there are places that sell the wheels alone.....thanks
Try Kraig at KT Hobbies. He currently has them in stock and he also will have the best prices.

http://www.kthobbies.com/shop/index....page=1&sort=1a
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Old 01-31-2006, 04:09 PM   #17205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad
Thanks guys. Does anyone know of where to get axle shims. Say in 2mm-4mm widths. My axle is 174mm, just a touch too wide.
I like the aluminum ones from Trinity. They come in 1.25mm and 3.8mm. I couldn't find the thick ones on the website anymore but the 1.25mm ones are part #SB5085 .050" axle shim.
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