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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-28-2006, 09:47 PM   #17161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
odpurple, what brand of battery bars do you use?
Dean's 3, cut down for weight and coolness

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 01-28-2006, 10:05 PM   #17162
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OD,

Good showing for your new car today.
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:54 PM   #17163
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Does anyone know what the advantages and disadvantages between mounting the servo flat on the chassis and mounting it on the servo mounts are?
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Old 01-29-2006, 02:33 PM   #17164
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Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
OD,

Good showing for your new car today.
thanks, it's really good.
now all it needs is a good driver
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Old 01-29-2006, 05:51 PM   #17165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
thanks, it's really good.
now all it needs is a good driver
That leaves me out...
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:44 PM   #17166
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Hi guys, I know that this is not the WTB section but I thought that I would have better luck here. I am running a 12L3 and broke the chassis on Sat. Does anyone have one new that they want to sell? LMK or PM me. Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:58 PM   #17167
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Originally Posted by sesimon
Does anyone know what the advantages and disadvantages between mounting the servo flat on the chassis and mounting it on the servo mounts are?
Well, here goes...

With servo mounted flat on the chassis, you get a lower center of gravity. Because you connect steering tie rods to the servo saver in the upward positon, you typically get less toe change and bumpsteer characteristics from the other setup. And even the servo saver's arm length affects the angle of the steering tie rods which affects toe and bumpsteer.

With servo angled on the chassis, you have the additional weight of the mounting brackets and hardware (screws). Because you connect the steering tie rods to the servo saver oriented in the downward position, the toe change and bumpsteer characteristic are more significant.

For me, a "tie rod" consists of a turnbuckle and two rod ends.
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:28 PM   #17168
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dont forget, mounting the servo flat on the chassis makes the turnbuckle hit the upper arm (dynamic front end) thus, restricting the steering and making the wheel hit the ball cup when you hit a wall and denting your wheel..... mounting the servo flat on the chassis is great when you are using old skool front end, cefx or corally...
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:57 PM   #17169
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With my servo flat on the chassis turn in becomes way more aggressive.
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:34 PM   #17170
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Originally Posted by dakrat
dont forget, mounting the servo flat on the chassis makes the turnbuckle hit the upper arm (dynamic front end) thus, restricting the steering and making the wheel hit the ball cup when you hit a wall and denting your wheel..... mounting the servo flat on the chassis is great when you are using old skool front end, cefx or corally...
dak,

Hats off to you. I put a dynamic front end on my Rev 4 last week and had not noticed that issue. Although I am not too concerned about denting wheels, I just don't like the turnbuckles hitting the back of the upper arm. Many thanks.

Bill
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Old 01-30-2006, 11:42 AM   #17171
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Hi guys, I know that this is not the WTB section but I thought that I would have better luck here. I am running a 12L3 and broke the chassis on Sat. Does anyone have one new that they want to sell? LMK or PM me. Thanks.
L3 Chassis photos
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:01 PM   #17172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
L3 Chassis photos
Sent you a PM.
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:26 PM   #17173
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Originally Posted by smyka
who loves you cypress but look at the long term stats a t bar car has won more races then a link car . not saying a link car is bad just saying some people can not drive a car that steers as much as a link car does. i won the brids with two totally different cars and the third time was the cars i won cleveland with but i ran springs instead of offa plate so does this make it a spring car . you love spring cars i love t bar cars and we still liek each other in the end
I agree with you to some extent, but if you look at the stats for stock and Masters, (you know the classes where guys sometimes actually PAY FOR THEIR OWN CARS! ), you'll see the differences between the link and T-bar victories somewhat differently. I mean Masters at Cleveland hasn't been won by a T-bar car in what, seven years? Nobody could touch Frank 'till the bearded wonder switched over to the 'Knife. Lately it's been the Eli show. Pulfer and Dayger had no problem getting Knives around in stock, and we don't even need to mention Dumas,The Pritch and Hodgimoto.

It's a preference thing like you said. You've seen me drive, and even when I was good, I liked a ton of steering. Now I have to have it to drive outta all the mistakes I make ! They both work, it's just a matter of what YOU are comfortable with. I'll stick with link cars........
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:44 PM   #17174
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Originally Posted by CypressMidWest
I agree with you to some extent, but if you look at the stats for stock and Masters, (you know the classes where guys sometimes actually PAY FOR THEIR OWN CARS! ), you'll see the differences between the link and T-bar victories somewhat differently. I mean Masters at Cleveland hasn't been won by a T-bar car in what, seven years? Nobody could touch Frank 'till the bearded wonder switched over to the 'Knife. Lately it's been the Eli show. Pulfer and Dayger had no problem getting Knives around in stock, and we don't even need to mention Dumas,The Pritch and Hodgimoto.

It's a preference thing like you said. You've seen me drive, and even when I was good, I liked a ton of steering. Now I have to have it to drive outta all the mistakes I make ! They both work, it's just a matter of what YOU are comfortable with. I'll stick with link cars........
Didn't VanWagner TQ masters a couple of years ago with the Six Pack CRC car,witch has a T Bar.
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:44 PM   #17175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sesimon
Does anyone know what the advantages and disadvantages between mounting the servo flat on the chassis and mounting it on the servo mounts are?
I have been doing a lot of testing with this lately. It seems to me that the servo angled up has a more consistent feel and carves the middle to last half of the turn more efficiently. I would be able to let off almost exactly the same with both positions but the angled allowed me to stay on the gas around carosels still hugging the inside board. Angled up does not turn in as hard as the servo flat but it is close, mainly because the flat servo has some bump in I guess. Also servo flat the car seems to be slightly unstable over the bumps at our track. I can turn the same lap times with both on our track but they feel totally different. So it maybe is a matter of preference. If your track is bumpy or has a lot of bite you might want to consider angled as it might be easier to drive. I still have to test this more and might have another opinion after the snowbirds.

Paul
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