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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-27-2006, 01:24 AM   #17131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team CRC
Hehehe ... thanks for the nice words Michael. Your cars always look good!
your'e welcome, now go to bed! what is it 3am out there?
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Old 01-27-2006, 06:40 AM   #17132
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Hey guys, what's the deal with the 16gau wire? Wouldn't you want as much current as possible running to your motor by using a larger (12) gauge wire?

please enlighten me..
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Old 01-27-2006, 06:56 AM   #17133
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its more flexible so it doesn't bind the suspension action up. also easier to route down along the chassis to keep that low cg.
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Old 01-27-2006, 09:14 AM   #17134
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16 guage is more than enough to handle the current ( i have heard that suppositly the only thing that matters is that the negative battery wire is short and thicker, and on a 12th scale that is really not an issue), it is also lighter than 12, and with 38's my car at least can sometimes be a bit heavy depending on the scale used. also on a 12th scale the wire spans the suspenion so it can act as a spring and tweak the car, if you do decided to run thick stiff wire make sure to route it as close to the center shock as possible as to not tweak the car.
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:26 AM   #17135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlowerOne
I'm not sure about the T-bar / pivot debate, but wherever they run together the T-bar car is always faster on carpet.
I guess you would mean everywhere but Cleveland, Stock Mod and Masters all won by link cars. 1st and 2nd in mod were taken by BONE STOCK Rev.4's. There's no secrets, the set-up is posted on the Speedmerchant site. I know there were no factory only parts, or oddball set-ups on the Carpetknives that finished one two in stock either, the guy that won is my best friend. Dumas ran the fastest laps all weekend, and his car looked better than every other car in 12th Mod but Pritchard and Hodge's. I think blanket statments like that are funny.
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:33 AM   #17136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Masami Hirosaka, Mike Blackstock and Mike Lufaso disagree with you

That's why I said "I prefer". Of course Masami would've more than likely won if he'd have run the pod slapped to a solid 3mm piece of Graphite. Rheinhard had a pretty good showing for a guy with near ZERO 12th scale experience, especially since he was running a car that was TOO STIFF with the wrong rear suspension design. I guess if he had Masami's car he would've lapped the Field!!!
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:47 AM   #17137
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Well, remember that Eli won Masters two years ago with a T-Fource using the side springs. A lot of this debate depends on what the driver likes and their ability.

We had a Mini Cooper class last year and all the guys ran the same stuff. Eli started running and was putting several laps on the Cooper fast guys. He had nothing special, just talent.

Your car is a big part of the picture, but your ability is an even bigger part. Give me a dialed car, hot batteries and motor and I'll still be a mid B main contender at the club. Give the same stuff to someone who has more talent and they are at the top of their game.

Greg
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:59 AM   #17138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg45231
Well, remember that Eli won Masters two years ago with a T-Fource using the side springs. A lot of this debate depends on what the driver likes and their ability.

Greg
Correct Greg, and he has subsequently switched over to the CarpetKnife. There are guys that can drive anything and that was my point about Rheinhard. I honestly could give a rat's heinie about what Masami wins the Worlds with.... I run what I prefer, but everyone else starts throwing out race results, so I occasionally drop a few as well. Fact is, you'd see something other than a Yok/AE Hybrid win a world championship if they ran the worlds on carpet,(where 12th scale cars belong), and AE didn't have virtually every 12th scale wizard on contract. Dumas leaves the Trinity car behind, and suddenly a link car with the OLD SKOOL front-end wins Mod at the Champs. I was there, I announced, and really by the end of the race there wasn't a T-bar car anywhere near the front of the pack. Driver is the most important factor, and Blackstock, Cyrul, Dumas, Pritchard, McMahon, Hodge etc. could all win with either type of car, just depends on who they run for, and what type of chassis they prefer, if they have options.
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Old 01-27-2006, 12:05 PM   #17139
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I've got a REV4 and a 12l4 both with IRS big diffs and IRS lowered pods Z3650 servos and GTX and Comp2 speedos - both set up and handle very well - 12l4 setup ala Blackstock and Rev4 setup per ideas from Cypress - both cars rock but the REV4 in most situations is smoother and faster in the tuns - better weight transfer.
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Old 01-27-2006, 01:10 PM   #17140
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Mike's car steers so much. He has to counter steer it. Mike also tested a certain companies car and didn't like it. He likes the 12L4 a lot. There is a reason the other mfg's use it as a base for there cars.
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Old 01-27-2006, 02:00 PM   #17141
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I know this is not "want to buy" thread, but here should have plenty of 12th owners that might have the parts that I want...

I am looking for a used or in good condition Alum. lowered Motor pod plates 12L4 type from CRC....blue, red, silver....I don't care, as long as they are in good shape...I just need that 2 piece of hardware, not the whole car...PM me with info, thanks.
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Old 01-27-2006, 04:18 PM   #17142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg45231
Well, remember that Eli won Masters two years ago with a T-Fource using the side springs. A lot of this debate depends on what the driver likes and their ability.

We had a Mini Cooper class last year and all the guys ran the same stuff. Eli started running and was putting several laps on the Cooper fast guys. He had nothing special, just talent.

Your car is a big part of the picture, but your ability is an even bigger part. Give me a dialed car, hot batteries and motor and I'll still be a mid B main contender at the club. Give the same stuff to someone who has more talent and they are at the top of their game.

Greg
True Datt!!!
I agree with you also Cypress!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-27-2006, 07:54 PM   #17143
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Those full suspenion 1/12 scale cars produced in Japan during the mid 1980's you speak so fondly of are junk!I know because I had one.They are vastly inferior to todays 1/12 scale cars.if you desire full suspenion,check out1/10 scale touring cars.
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Old 01-27-2006, 07:58 PM   #17144
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who loves you cypress but look at the long term stats a t bar car has won more races then a link car . not saying a link car is bad just saying some people can not drive a car that steers as much as a link car does. i won the brids with two totally different cars and the third time was the cars i won cleveland with but i ran springs instead of offa plate so does this make it a spring car . you love spring cars i love t bar cars and we still liek each other in the end
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Old 01-27-2006, 10:40 PM   #17145
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Do you guys use the .063 on carpet or outdoors. Also,when do you use the .075?? Just trying to stock up on the correct items for indoor carpet. Thanks--Al
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