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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-24-2002, 06:39 AM   #1696
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12L3 question

I got my 12L finished last night. I installed the motor and tried to install my smallest pinion, 32 tooth (64p), spur is the 96 tooth that was recomended. Motor hits the flex plate. Is this normal or did I do something wrong?? I know I need smaller pinions, but my bud got a 34 on his with the same spur. I will not see him for 2 weeks. Can someone help?? Thanks
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Old 10-24-2002, 10:51 AM   #1697
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rc nitro i think this is normal. my brother has one and had the same problem. he just filed that edge to make clearance and seems to work just fine. you race at the track in gaithersburg dont you
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Old 10-24-2002, 11:52 AM   #1698
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rc nitro, the reactive castor blocks that i was refering to are the 10 degree ones that you have so thats good that you have them. the dampner tubes that i use do the same thing that the pads do, control side to side dampening.

It is normal on a 12L for that gear ratio not to fit, but i wouldn't file the t-bar down to get it to fit, change the gears that you are using. for stock i use a 88 spur gear (64 p) and whatever pinion to get me close to a 48mm roll out (i race on a large carpet track).

i can't help you with your 3 shock set up i've never seen anyone run that on a 1/12 scale road car, you might want to look into getting the pads or dampner tubes.
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Old 10-24-2002, 11:56 AM   #1699
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avink1: What damper tubes would you recomend? I need to do what ever is cheeper as I am low on cash now. Damper plate if that is the case.
Thanks for the help

Mike5009: No, Tidewater RC in Hampton VA.
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Old 10-24-2002, 12:06 PM   #1700
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rc nitro, i don't kno which is cheaper to do, the dampner tubes that i am using came off my old trinity. the cheapest thing to do would be to experiment with the 3 shock setup and see if you can get it to work.

i think that you mentioned the pre-load on the center shock. to set that put the car on a flat surface and check to see that the chassis plate and the pod plate are level with each other. make sure that they aren't bowed up or that they aren't sagging. they should look like this _____ ___
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Old 10-24-2002, 04:53 PM   #1701
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Kev- I'm in, 12th mod. Jucha made it in 12th/TC stock and Danny(SMC) will be running 12th stock. GP3300's are running great. Billy Bowerman/Speedworld/Sorex/Luna will be missing a great race but had fun running 1/8th this past week. Just ordered some Gray Donuts from Al's for the race. Hopefully i'll be able to go to the practice 10min from the Clevland track on Mon. or Tues. before Cleveland sign-in to get ready. This is going to be fun. Just found out from Juch's that the Minnesota gang got the Roar Carpet Nat's so yipee. Looking forward to them running foam for the TC's since Roar leaves that up to the track. Finally the members of Roar will get their first Foam TC Carpet Nat's...hopefully that is since i don't call any shots and can't speak for them. What are you doing this Friday/Saturday night? Maybe we can run together at Venture, give me a call or i'll call you tonight after my meeting.

How's everyone else doing? Thread looks good, how are everones setups working? Whoes running mod and how are they doing?
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Old 10-24-2002, 05:16 PM   #1702
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Darnold or someone with the same exspertice,
Ive just brought myself some new 3000HV's ,has where not allowed to use 3300 until next Aprill.I was wondering how you charge your HV's for Modified,and what delta/m/v,threshold per sell do you use,do you tray them after every run .?.& whats the best way to get/save for run-time..?..
Thanx
stevie
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Old 10-24-2002, 05:32 PM   #1703
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Tigger.....Im going to be at the track fridaynight as I have to work saturday morn at like 4am. Thats all the racing for me this weekend but next weekend its game on saturday and sunday. If your there fridaynight I will see you there.

Later
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Old 10-24-2002, 05:38 PM   #1704
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Stevie, I used 5A with 0.06 at Gaydon i think. Somewhere around that should be fine.
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Old 10-25-2002, 02:54 AM   #1705
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Default Help choosing model!

Hello everyone,

My friend and I are really interested on getting a 1/12 kit. The only problem is which one!!

We are between the following (in no particular order):
- Trinity Switchblade 12 Spachett Edition (I can't find it in any on-line store though!!)
- Yokomo YRX12WE
- Corally 12G3
- TRC Carpet Knife

Races will be mainly on ashpalt


Thank you in advance

Nick
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Old 10-25-2002, 06:32 AM   #1706
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Default Re: Help choosing model!

Quote:
Originally posted by nnick
Hello everyone,

My friend and I are really interested on getting a 1/12 kit. The only problem is which one!!

We are between the following (in no particular order):
- Trinity Switchblade 12 Spachett Edition (I can't find it in any on-line store though!!)
- Yokomo YRX12WE
- Corally 12G3
- TRC Carpet Knife

Races will be mainly on ashpalt


Thank you in advance

Nick
nick first of all you will love 1/12 scale racing. this is some of the best racing out there here is my opinion on the models you are considering. the trinity switch blade has quality control issues. its a good car if you know how to build it. there are some modifications you have to make to get the car to roll free. if you get it the guys on this forum are more than willing to help. next the yokomo, this car was designed for modified asphault racing. not my car of choice but a contender never the less. very good car corally is also a good car for your intentions and carpet also. the crc carpet knife is the car i have its good on asphault and really good on carpet. the only thing wrong with this car is the tweek screws. just make sure you put a dab of thread lock on 'em. other wise your car will become tweeked during a race. dont forget the assoceated 12L3 good all around car. hope this helps and welcome to 1/12 scale racing
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Old 10-25-2002, 06:45 AM   #1707
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Stevie: For Sanyo 3000HV charge at 6 amps at .07 peak. Works great for me. I use a turbo 35. For detailed info look at Danny's info on SMCRacing. Danny's the man when it comes to batteries.
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Old 10-25-2002, 06:49 AM   #1708
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avink1: Thanks for the info on setting the center shock!! I just did that. On the dampers vs the shocks I will try the tri shock setup and see if that works. My bud and I that are trying to start this 1/12 class has a 12LC with the dampers. We will swap and see what we like better. Kind of like the blind leading the blind here LOL.

nnick: darnould answered that for me ~ 10 pages back. I will attempt to look for the info. but this dailup is sloooowwww. Use to my T1 at work
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Old 10-25-2002, 07:01 AM   #1709
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mike5009 Thank you for info. Realy helpfull
rc nitro: I thought that this question might be asked before but the 57 pages (i only got until page 8) the forum make me post it again!!! I'll look darnould answer!!!


Thanks again

Nick
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Old 10-25-2002, 07:03 AM   #1710
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nnick: Here is the info darnould posted: If I can offer 1 piece of advice from a beginner. I got a 12L3O (Oval)and converted to 12L3 (on-road) You need a lot of little things to do this. Cheeper to buy 1 outright. Welcome to 1/12. cannot wait to run mine!!!!! Next week as track is having the state oval race this weekend.

Quote:
RC Nitro- List of 1/12th cars (in no order) Corrally 12G/M, Yokomo YRX 12 (Masami ed), Kawada, Associated 12L3, CRC Carpet Knife, CRC 6 pack, SpeedMerchant Rev.3, Trinity Switchblade Spashett 2002, Pro Tech "Lil dady"(?). Out of these i think if you run mod you will probably really like a Trinity, Associated or Yokomo. The Yokomo is kind of a mix between an Associated and Trinity. Associated is coming out with a new car supposedly within the next 6mos but who knows. The Kawada if it is still sold is a revised Associated. The Rev. 3 and Carpet Knife are awesome cars for stock and i've heard that the Rev. 3 will be getting some revisions but who knows? The six pack in its box stock form is kind of a cross between a Carpet Knife and an Associated but most people when they run mod with it simply take off the side springs and run the tweak screws ala L3 or Switchblade. The Pro-Tech is a unique design that uses ideas found on the Corrally, Switchbalde and L3. The Corrally 12M if i'm not mistaken (and i could be) is getting a few updates that were used at the World's this year. My favorite is the Trinity car.
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